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2012 AK sled build

I looked at the Conquer. The 156 is suppose to be 44 lbs and the Polaris 2.6 is 46 lbs. the only reason I went with the 2.6 is because I already have barely used 2.86 pitch 8-tooth avid drivers. I didn't want to spend the money for new 3" pitch drivers.
 

OVR4D said:
It may not be in the cards with your current design, plus it would mean more fabrication, but you should take a closer look at Doo's RAS 3 steering setup. The new design really eliminates bump steer.
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Nikolai said:
If I build another sled after this one I may look into that, slick setup for sure. It's going to depend on how poor the handling is on mine. I'm anxious to ride it.
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The complex steering on the G4 is mostly because the Left and Right A-Arms are far apart (on either side of new bulkhead). On the older Rev's, the left and right side a-arms were very close together (as anyone with the GNR brace kit knows!!!). Not necessary on the Nytro cause the a-arms are close together as well.

Nikolai, I had to laugh when you took a saw to the cooler....did you get the name of the Yami engineer who put the starter and oil filter on the ABSOLUTELY WRONG side of the engine!!!! They must have been sleeping when they were teaching mass centralization and minimizing distance from crankshaft to driveshaft.....with a 3" lug track of course....lol

OTM
 
They need some help in the engineering department for sure.

Last night I finished cleaning up the backsides of the rear motor mounts. I wanted the bulkhead area to be nice and flat where my block off plate will go. It'll make it easier to fab and hopefully look clean.

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The sides of my cooler(and the die cast sides) have multiple rivet holes from moving the cooler forward the first time, which was going to make it difficult to secure after moving it again. So I'm cutting the sides off the cooler and will be welding new thicker 3/16 sides on that will cover all the existing holes and fit snug against the motor mounts. Picked up the aluminum scrap today and will start cutting them.

Rough idea of what's happening. Pic was prior to cleaning up the motor mounts.
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Looks great! Are you by chance all over that battery option I saw on snowest using a Ultracapcitor and a small hobby battery? I am in love with the UC idea and the smallest lightest battery you need to keep them charge, worried about the drain when sitting for long periods. Didn't know if you were in the know or had experience with anything other then the Shorai you had.
 
I saw that and I like the idea, but I think my Shorai battery is right around 2 lbs so I wouldn't really save any weight. I'll have to weigh my battery again. I'm deffinitely going to look into it further.

I will have more sled updates soon. Bought a plow for my Ranger 6x6 and bent the mount kit the first day so I've been busy fixing that.

1/2-20 bungs for the upper a-arms showed up.
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Upper a-arms will utilize the 1/2-20 rod ends from the 06-10 Polaris Dragon. They're super light and have a recess in the ball to use a shorter bolt. Will use shorter Ti bolts & Alu jam nuts. A-arm material will be 3/4 x .049 Docol 8.

Still working out Details on the lowers. Most likely FK spherical bearings and 1 x .058 Docol 8. Reason for the spherical bearings is weight, they are significantly lighter then heim joints.
 
Are you planning to get this sled put together and sell it since it doesn't appear the oil filter can be changed without pulling the engine?
 
I've owned it since new in 2008. I'll never sell this sled, ever. Way too much heart into it, this sled is nearly part of my soul now. Once it's done I plan on riding it for a long time and if I ever retire it I'll hang it on the wall as garage art. But I don't see that happening.

As for the oil changes, I'll just pull the motor once a year to change the oil which I would do anyway to check the frame for cracks.
 
Why not ditch the front cooler completely? Could just make a thin alum plate maybe 1/8" thick? That's what I did on my tube chassis. Would gain a bunch of room this way.

I only run a rear cooler i built and it's more than enough to keep the sled cool. Even in low snow conditions. I kept the thermostat and my "bypass loop" is simply just a hose from the bottom of the Tstat back the the intake side of the engine. I can post some pics of you want.
 
I kept the front cooler thinking my rear cooler wouldn't be enough since it isn't very big.

A few pics of your setup would be great.
 
Maybe stupid question, but is there anywhere else on that engine you could tap oil pressure and return it to the sump? You know how much I hate the oil filter location but I keep thinking there's got to be oil pressure somewhere in that block you could use to eliminate THAT filter location and put it somewhere else.

Option 2 is to fabricate a "head" instead of the filter which allows you to use hoses and put it filter another position in the body work. Yes it will add weight!!! LOL

OTM
 
I like your thinking. Even it added weight, it would allow you to move the motor back, probably upwards of an inch or more without the front cooler.
 
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