Snowaddict
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2005
- Messages
- 1,107
- Location
- Menasha, WI
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 Sidewinder LTX-LE
- mstahl88
So,what's fix, assuming it should be fixed?
That's the question. Should it be fixed? That won't break the spring like binding will. About all that can be done is a smaller OD spring or machine the pockets bigger.
I wonder if the walls of spring pockets are taller than old clutch. Those marks are way up the spring. Seems unnecessary to have walls that tall.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 7,503
- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
- Country
- Other
- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
I would hope a Yam spring is smaller OD. Seems to be alot of issues coming up with primary spring now.
dgjr636
Expert
I might be wrong on this, but I think there might be a primary coil twist issue and not so much a a coil bind from the spring being to long and binding. Many coil springs will not perform properly if they can not freely twist while been compressed.
We have seen some of these issues on some MX bikes rear shock springs in the past. The sytoms are nearly the same with the shock spring rubbing outer components and rubbing shock bodies heavily. The cure for many of these have been to install thin needle bearing assemblies to either the top, or The bottom of the shock spring.
I'm not saying that this is the fix but just simply stating it is a possibility of this issue. I have not been able to test do to lack of snow but hopefully I will be heading to Quebec at the end of this week to put on approx 1200mi to test this theory. Picture shows the type of bearing I'm talking about.
I will be testing something similar. If and when I can.
We have seen some of these issues on some MX bikes rear shock springs in the past. The sytoms are nearly the same with the shock spring rubbing outer components and rubbing shock bodies heavily. The cure for many of these have been to install thin needle bearing assemblies to either the top, or The bottom of the shock spring.
I'm not saying that this is the fix but just simply stating it is a possibility of this issue. I have not been able to test do to lack of snow but hopefully I will be heading to Quebec at the end of this week to put on approx 1200mi to test this theory. Picture shows the type of bearing I'm talking about.
I will be testing something similar. If and when I can.
jonlafon1
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2014
- Messages
- 4,103
- Age
- 49
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2022 Sidewinder LTX_SE
2024 Catalyst RXC
2017 Sidewinder LTX-SE. 11750 miles (SOLD)
Those were used often on the Cat compression secondary spring for the exact thing that's happening with the winder primary springs.(DD used to make them). They worked! This is a great idea if possible.. I believe some springs just work better then others.. Glide washers are a must either way.. I hate to say it but its almost trial and error on these primary springs. And the real killer is we the customers are the ones doing the trial and error.. BS Yamaha > shame on you for not seeing this and or testing for it and addressing it BEFORE production.. I purchased 3 Yamaha springs to start the season.. I Popped clutch and pulled stocker spring and my first thought was "this thing is very long/high" never ran it.. I tried> I believe the blue/white/blue to start.. (maybe 300 miles). And saw a little paint worn off .. Was not terrible but decided that was out.. yellow/green/yellow since 1600 miles... I know it sounds crazy >>> but I have seen same exact springs in 2 same sleds and one works great the other not so much. I swear its in the Manufacture process with these springs.. Its like when you get a good one you got a good one! I tried a Polaris spring in a 800 cat a few years back that after 200 miles it was kinked and cock eyed so bad it was unusable(right in the trash).. Take your spring out and roll it on a flat surface.. If it its smooth roll its good if it rolls like a egg its junk.. And of coarse paint missing is bad also
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