thor452
Because I can
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,029
- Location
- Shawano,WI 54166
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
how are the plugs? seems like you got it severe and maybe it is so bad cause the plugs are semi fouled causeing the prob to be even worse. I ask because most dont have to give it throttle to stay running during warm up. I would start by pulling the air box spray the throttle bodies real good with a carb cleaner wait a min and spray again then replace the plugs and see. while in there I have hear the temp sensor can be a cause as well so pull that out and clean it as well.
yama_rider
Pro
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2014
- Messages
- 179
- Age
- 40
- Location
- New Brunswick
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2009 RS Venture
I just got done pulling the plugs and they all looked fine. I had a set of CR10EK's to go in it (supposedly a better plug) but the tops are different (needs the screw on caps to work). But as others have mentioned, it doesn't seem to make any difference with new plugs or not. I have my CO settings on -10 right now but will change to -15 to see if it helps. If it makes no difference I will just run it for the remaining 2-3 weeks of sledding left and try to work on it in the fall.
RTX
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2005
- Messages
- 1,796
- Location
- massachusetts / maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 viper rtx
2006 apex rtx
The airbox not seated properly over the throttle bodies can cause the high idle issue.
Check the boots are all sealed properly. Since it has been apart a few times and this issue just started i would suggest you
Remove the airbox and reinstall it. Real easy to pinch a boot.
any word? got two sleds with the same issues. will try the temp sensor tomorrow?
Keep us posted on temp sensor
so temp sensor being unhooked forces the computer into limp mode which goes to a default rich setting. Thus curing the lean stall completely while it is unplugged only. But it is a confirmation of lean stall, not timing, as well as confirmation that the sled mechanically can idle perfectly with a bit more fuel. Shop has been swamped this week with windshields so no time to tinker on it. Tomorrow I have a couple things to check out, barometer for one, map for two. I have a new take off map but no extra barometers so just a ohms test, hot and cold. They have a hole where they sample, I am going to take it off and clean it as well. Hoping maybe belt dust is getting in it.
Update?
Ran out of snow.
tried a new map sensor and also another air pressure sensor to no change, I have gone through the list of all I can think of an anything yamaha tech has said to try. I have done leak down test, checked cam timing, valve adjustment, boots, all sensors have either been replaced or tested as per manual. Cleaned tb, adjusted tb to make sure it was closing, even went the other way and tried a tiny bit open. I checked ground, etc. Im going to jump a battery on it next to see if it might be a voltage drop at idle causing something? I doubt it but got to get all things out of the way. confirmed fuel pressure, plugs, swapped out coil packs.
Have a new rack to put on it to try. I think I tried that last year but now I am second guessing my memory.
Have a new rack to put on it to try. I think I tried that last year but now I am second guessing my memory.
findkeys
Newbie
Have you any update on your sled you fine a fix yet
nope, I gave up and took advantage of a customer who like me, was sick of the sled and just ate the labor and bought the sled to scrap. My next step was to order a set of bushings to degree the cams with. my thought was that over time, the chain stretching a bit might cause the cam timing to be off a degree or two and change idle cam timing enough to mess it up. might explain why it seems to happen at later mileages. Also, the sled uses a cam sensor, maybe this cam sensor sensing a cam that is off a degree or two might change something with timing or fuel at idle. I don't think so. As I understand a cam sensor, it is just a reference to tell the computer what stroke the cylinders are on and does not need to be as accurate as a crank sensor. Maybe I am wrong on that.
After that, I thought I might try to manipulate the map or atmosphere sensor with resistors.
This sled will be a pile today. I my sled is showing signs of this issue though not as bad. I'll have to continue the search on mine at a later date.
After that, I thought I might try to manipulate the map or atmosphere sensor with resistors.
This sled will be a pile today. I my sled is showing signs of this issue though not as bad. I'll have to continue the search on mine at a later date.
justin gallant
Expert
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2017
- Messages
- 234
- Age
- 37
- Location
- moncton
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2006 apex GT
- LOCATION
- moncton new-brunswick
Mine was doing the same and co settings fixed it.
What was the mileage on sled?
justin gallant
Expert
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2017
- Messages
- 234
- Age
- 37
- Location
- moncton
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2006 apex GT
- LOCATION
- moncton new-brunswick
18000km
mileage on sled was 10000, mileage on mine is 21000.
I never got around to manipulating the sensor I might get to that on my sled this year later. cant ride right now.
an update on the motor. Friend blew his up, put this same motor in his chassis. The only electrics that were left on the motor was the stator and cam sensor. guess what, it stalls when warmed up. talk about a change of parts. So for now I think he is going to change out the stator. I wonder if though they may read correct ohms, they may have some other issue that effects it enough when the sled leans out for warm idle settings from the factory, it stalls. Shot in the dark. anyone try a stator? I'll report back with what he found. Glad to get the dam thing off the floor and out the way.
for those who havent followed my nightmare. I have check the valves for sealing with the head off and cams removed. checked valve lash with head off and with head on, check cam timing twice, leak down, compression. and now have chaned out the sled around the motor.
I never got around to manipulating the sensor I might get to that on my sled this year later. cant ride right now.
an update on the motor. Friend blew his up, put this same motor in his chassis. The only electrics that were left on the motor was the stator and cam sensor. guess what, it stalls when warmed up. talk about a change of parts. So for now I think he is going to change out the stator. I wonder if though they may read correct ohms, they may have some other issue that effects it enough when the sled leans out for warm idle settings from the factory, it stalls. Shot in the dark. anyone try a stator? I'll report back with what he found. Glad to get the dam thing off the floor and out the way.
for those who havent followed my nightmare. I have check the valves for sealing with the head off and cams removed. checked valve lash with head off and with head on, check cam timing twice, leak down, compression. and now have chaned out the sled around the motor.
