Recent content by SidewinderConvert

When my sled did this it was due to the line to the MAP sensor being frozen over. Leaving the sled in a heated garage over night cleared out the problem.

I have been using structural crimp bolts recently. However what has been happening is the aluminum around the rivet/bolt gives way rather than the fastener itself.

After putting another 6,000 miles on the sled since replacing these mounts I did find one of the SS rivets slightly loose this fall. That said, I did have to straighten the front portion of the tunnel going into the heat exchanger due to... an over aggressive jump. The fact that the mounts...

If they do a 300hp sidewinder from the factory as the swan song.... I would order that in an instant.

Update I have on the redline: It is by far the best belt I have ever used. I put 2400 miles on ONE belt this year. Most of that 2400 miles was in a 300HP tune and last weekend with 2300 miles on the belt I decided to try blowing it. On a lake holding it to the handle bars until knock lights...

Several members of the forum are aware of my problems I have had with the header I originally chose to go with. This season after getting less than 500 miles on the header, I finally bought a second one. After replacing the bellows on the original header I had 4 times it has become pretty...

I have had several stock heat shields fail. Had better luck with the header blanket from Tommacat but still have to replace it when the bellows on a header fails.

The winder clutch was pretty roached. I am going to get it out later this week and collect some data on good gas (and full boost woohoo). After running the sled around a while "testing" it isn't bad having the higher engagement, just not as silky smooth as the old clutch was.

That only works if your tractor isn't diesel. Unfortunately the sled is the only gas powered thing that I own anymore. Might just have to have a fun bon fire with 5 gallons of old gas though...

So I changed out my winder clutch for an apex clutch. Put it all together, added 4g of weight, transferred over my TP orange spring and bolted it all together. After assembling the whole setup and running the sled I noticed I had about a 500 rpm higher engagement and seemed to be under revving...

I did not notice rpms change vs the 8JP. I did notice that I seem to have more belt dust than the 8JP ever did but I don't know if that is due to the fact I run the redlines far far harder than I ever could the 8JP.

That is what their marketing said. I tried one but also at the same time fixed my clutch alignment so I don't know if the luck I have had with the redline is due to clutching or the belt. I do know that after ~15 miles of >110mph running the clutches are too hot to touch though...

I know what you are saying. I ended up switching to the gates redline 8jp equivalent. They rate it for 300F before the rubber breaks down vs the 200F the Yami belt does. I have had great luck with them, ran one belt to 1800 miles and wasn't light on it. Have not blown one yet.

I am running 280HP. It isn't the sled that is the problem... Alot of it comes from the driver. My sleds don't get babied... I haven't had any problems with the stub shaft moving as long as you don't blow a belt. Just press it back into place and set your offset to 58.5mm After I did that I...

I have run my sled for 6k miles and 2 years of abuse with the secondary right against the inner race on the bearing. I have broken just about everything else on the sled but haven't had trouble with the secondary/jackshaft.