Jackshaft bearing clip

[SidewinderConvert]

I have run my sled for 6k miles and 2 years of abuse with the secondary right against the inner race on the bearing. I have broken just about everything else on the sled but haven't had trouble with the secondary/jackshaft.

 

[Doc Harley]

I have run my sled for 6k miles and 2 years of abuse with the secondary right against the inner race on the bearing. I have broken just about everything else on the sled but haven't had trouble with the secondary/jackshaft.

Ugh! Now that everything's corrected I sure hope you get in a good season.
What hp level are you using?

 

[Hammer70]

So....I jammed the drive belt down into clutch to keep it open.
I have appx. 3.33mm to work with.
If needed, where could I get a .5 mm shim?
View attachment 169691

You have to make yamaha only makes 1mm and 2 mm
Or try going to a hardware store and see what washers are available.
I made several thickness m buddy is a machinist and has his own machine shop.

 

[WarriorDan]

You have to make yamaha only makes 1mm and 2 mm
Or try going to a hardware store and see what washers are available.
I made several thickness m buddy is a machinist and has his own machine shop.

I may be way wrong on this but Grip&Rip Racing has some .5mm shims that may work. No promises as I am not an expert on this.

QRS Shim Kit 0.5mm - Grip N Rip Racing LLC.

Many clutches are misaligned right from the factory. This kit will allow you to shim your QRS driven clutch out using 0.5mm (.020") thick shims. The kit includes 3 of each shim for a total of 1.5mm (.060") of adjustment when stacked. Allows for fine tuning the offset on your sled.Installation...

www.gripnripracing.com

 

[1nc 2000]

Is it ok to remove this clip in order to achieve proper drive belt alignment?
Yes, I searched, thought I read conflictive posts in it's regards.

View attachment 169662

The secondary clutch also needs to be checked at full shift to make sure it will not rub on the bearing housing. I have seen it happen.
Did you pull the stub shaft out of engine and fully seat the bearing and shaft and loctite it.
Do the stub shaft first then do the secondary offset.

 

[Doc Harley]

The secondary clutch also needs to be checked at full shift to make sure it will not rub on the bearing housing. I have seen it happen.
Did you pull the stub shaft out of engine and fully seat the bearing and shaft and loctite it.
Do the stub shaft first then do the secondary offset.

Lol....reading old posts now. Going to pull snub shaft, green loctite & reinstall. Then I'll verify secondary offset.

Never ends.....

Thanks, Tim.....

 

[Doc Harley]

You have to make yamaha only makes 1mm and 2 mm
Or try going to a hardware store and see what washers are available.
I made several thickness m buddy is a machinist and has his own machine shop.

My local dealer has a 2mm shim in stock. Going to grab it on Saturday then bring that & my Snub shaft to machinist. He'll R&R bearing with green loctite, then bench grind the 2mm shim down to .5mm

 

[SidewinderConvert]

Ugh! Now that everything's corrected I sure hope you get in a good season.
What hp level are you using?

I am running 280HP. It isn't the sled that is the problem... Alot of it comes from the driver. My sleds don't get babied...

Lol....reading old posts now. Going to pull snub shaft, green loctite & reinstall. Then I'll verify secondary offset.

Never ends.....

Thanks, Tim.....

I haven't had any problems with the stub shaft moving as long as you don't blow a belt. Just press it back into place and set your offset to 58.5mm After I did that I went from getting 300 miles/belt to holding it to the handle bars for 30 miles straight on a 1500 mile old belt. (The weak point in that scenario is the aftermarket header which bursts due to heat + pressure + vibration for that much time)

 

[Doc Harley]

I am running 280HP. It isn't the sled that is the problem... Alot of it comes from the driver. My sleds don't get babied...

Oh, know.....I knew what the problem lies. Hahaha


I haven't had any problems with the stub shaft moving as long as you don't blow a belt. Just press it back into place and set your offset to 58.5mm After I did that I went from getting 300 miles/belt to holding it to the handle bars for 30 miles straight on a 1500 mile old belt. (The weak point in that scenario is the aftermarket header which bursts due to heat + pressure + vibration for that much time)

I'm going to run a couple of 8pj's to start things up, with lower HP tune of coarse. If they go, they go. If you know what I'm saying. Lol.

 

[SidewinderConvert]

I'm going to run a couple of 8pj's to start things up, with lower HP tune of coarse. If they go, they go. If you know what I'm saying. Lol.

I know what you are saying. I ended up switching to the gates redline 8jp equivalent. They rate it for 300F before the rubber breaks down vs the 200F the Yami belt does. I have had great luck with them, ran one belt to 1800 miles and wasn't light on it. Have not blown one yet.

 

[Doc Harley]

I know what you are saying. I ended up switching to the gates redline 8jp equivalent. They rate it for 300F before the rubber breaks down vs the 200F the Yami belt does. I have had great luck with them, ran one belt to 1800 miles and wasn't light on it. Have not blown one yet.

I know of the Redline belt, but it's hardly even talked about, as much as the holy grail of belts (ultimax XS 825)
I didn't know the Redline is rated at 300F?? Most typical belts break down at 200°F

 

[sideshowBob]

The secondary clutch also needs to be checked at full shift to make sure it will not rub on the bearing housing. I have seen it happen.
Did you pull the stub shaft out of engine and fully seat the bearing and shaft and loctite it.
Do the stub shaft first then do the secondary offset.

X2
You have to make sure the stub bearing is seated first before you start checking/adjusting secondary offset

 

[Doc Harley]

X2
You have to make sure the stub bearing is seated first before you start checking/adjusting secondary offset

Yeah, I just learned that an hour ago. Lol.

 

[SidewinderConvert]

I know of the Redline belt, but it's hardly even talked about, as much as the holy grail of belts (ultimax XS 825)
I didn't know the Redline is rated at 300F?? Most typical belts break down at 200°F

That is what their marketing said. I tried one but also at the same time fixed my clutch alignment so I don't know if the luck I have had with the redline is due to clutching or the belt. I do know that after ~15 miles of >110mph running the clutches are too hot to touch though...

 

[Doc Harley]

That is what their marketing said. I tried one but also at the same time fixed my clutch alignment so I don't know if the luck I have had with the redline is due to clutching or the belt. I do know that after ~15 miles of >110mph running the clutches are too hot to touch though...

This is kinda why I'm making sacrifice of a couple of 8jp's.
15m@110....I call that, the test of tests.....lol