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So sled is fixed and running just like new....
just started lookng for grounds that werent connected or broken, so i took apart connectors and started drying them with an air gun and put it al back together, crossed my fingers and tuurn ed the key and no codes and ran perfect. Tempermental!
So I have just finished putting my sled all back together, but now it is throwing codes all over!
So it has a code 84 which is TPS and so I went into the diagnostics and there isn't a proper reading, its got 0 for fully closed and 2 for fully open! So is it often that they have to be...
Ya the dealer said they have never changed one, and I was the only person to buy one.
I changed the chain on one that had 1200 kms on it cuz I thought it might be too loose but the new one wasn't any better.
And I asked about tolerance and they couldn't find any spec's on it?
Its only...
just had a question, i had my engine apart and i had looked at the oil pump chain and seen that it has a fair bit of slack in it and was wondering if i should worry about it or not, the sled has 2500 kms on it, in know there are lots of guys with alot more than that?
So what is the life of...
just had a question, i had my engine apart and i had looked at the oil pump chain and seen that it has a fair bit of slack in it and was wondering if i should worry about it or not, the sled has 2500 kms on it, in know there are lots of guys with alot more than that?
So what is the life of...
Hmm ok so I'm prob just better off workin on it on the bench, what are the valve clearances?
Also when I had set the timing I had the TDC marks lined up on the crank but any way that I tried I couldn't get the marks on the cam sprockets to line up strait across but yet the dots on the cams...
So in anoher topic a few people may have read that i had some engine vibration issues which in a result i had not relized that i had the counter balance out a couple teeth and all that got solved.
So being a bit worried whether i had remembered to line up the counter balance on my own sled...
Hey guys, so if anyone is needing a solution to the icing problem on the filter cuz of the short little intake that comes with the turbo kit, here is the part number for a rad hose that fits perfect with a bit of extra lenght so u can cut it to whatever u perfer.
It is a Dayco part#
70921...
Sorry I haven't replied on my outcome on this, it was in fact that the counter balance was out a few teeth,
And for the hole in the pan, it was just a simple mistake of not tightening the oil pump spocket bolt, o well my expense and the sled is now up and running better than ever.
Thanks...
ya i had checked the price on them, pretty penny i wouuld say< veery nice tho,
i do really like what u have done with yours snakebite that is kinda what im lookin for, i know it doesnt make the snow clearing any better but just cant afford the nice boards right now.
more pics if possible...
ok so maybe not the spindles just yet, umm i didnt get a chance to look yet no,
i guess what i mean is do i messure closer to the end of the ski or more where the ball joint bolts to the spindle, cuz your distance is gonna change right depending where u messure.
thanks guys for all the replys, it sounds like im not the only one with this problem...
so il try all of the things suggested
ill try the shims cuz the trails off the mountain are often hard pack and icy
ill check the toe, but once it has been messured to be strait and square where...
good for u! but ditch baggers dont go far in mountain powder, and if your ditch bagger darts around too then there is something to be fixed. cuz i see alot of good ideas here and obiously it is fixable to a point.
So I hope I'm not the only one with this problem but my nytro is absolutely terrible for
darting from side to side on the trail or even in a bit of snow with a hard crust on top.
So could it be that my ski's are toed in too much or do I need different skis? Or is there an update that needs...
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