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I did just verify that any small amount of throttle input locks out the reverse button function. Too high of a TPS reading at idle may even cause it if that is out of adjustment. These things are fussy if anything is out of spec. Both of mine had reverse issues till I took the time to sort them...

I think there might still be something switched around with the wires. An incandescent 12v test light would be really helpful with pinpointing some of these issues.

I'm wondering if the throttle safety switch plays a roll in this function. If for some reason the switch is stuck on when the throttle is released does the ECU lock out changing gears? I'll have to experiment on mine to find out.

If you pop the air filter out you should be able to reach inside the airbox and plug this hole with your thumb when running. This port is for the idle control. If the idle doesn't drop way down low then air is getting in from somewhere else.

The cold start fast idle is controlled by a thermostatic valve that bleeds in extra air based on coolant temp. I've had this issue on a few Japanese vehicles due to low coolant. Without hot coolant circulating through the throttle body they wouldn't idle down. Once the air got burped out they...

While in diagnostics, rotate the TPS till the reading is at 14

Hmmm, that's just out of focus enough for me to not recognize it. But look around and you might discover what's going on. You might be close.

When warmed up the idle speed should be around 1,800 rpm. If it's much higher the ECU doesn't usually allow reverse to function. One of mine had this exact issue when I bought it and turning down the idle cured that one.

I'm thinking either a missed ground connection or no power flow through a fuse, possible corrosion related.

So diagnostic mode # 9 is showing 0 volts? I wonder if a fuse holder is corroded or a relay connector.

Your TPS numbers are reasonably in spec but could be adjusted slightly lower. I'm not sure that would have any effect but it's free to try. Not easy to get to though. The only other thing I can think of would be a wiring issue between the throttle switch and the ECU.

How's your throttle cable free play?

You could unplug the two single wire connectors getting the throttle block assembly (TORS wires) and plug them into each other on the engine harness side. This will bypass TORS for testing purposes. This is not recommended as a fix as it could result in bad things happening if the throttle ever...

Sounds like all is good with TORS at this moment. Maybe check it again when it starts acting up. Intermittent electrical problems are always so much fun!

If it stays "on" until you completely release the throttle then it should be fine. If you're at say 1/2 throttle and you let up only slightly, does it stay "on" ? It should.

That sounds correct but you need to watch for intermittent changes as you're applying the throttle. Could be dirty switch contacts.

In diagnostics, mode #24 is for throttle switch function. Throttle open = on, throttle closed = off.

I had that thought too except when one of mine had a TORS issue (due to a misadjusted throttle cable) it would flash the warning light and give a code 84. Maybe the OP just hasn't looked in time to notice it coming on...?

It's wrapped up in the harness between the radiator and oil tank. If you do a quick search on here for "Phazer ground block" you'll find some good posts.

I'd suggest checking the ground block too. One of mine had a similar issue that ended up being a bad TPS. It had an intermittent dead spot at low throttle settings and would go lean and backfire. It was nearly undrivable at times but ran great at 1/2 throttle or higher. The TPS is easy to check...