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If you buy a tune bundle you should be able to mix tunes, stock muffler and high flow muffler? Not 100% sure. That being said if buy a high flow muffler tune the closed loop should work well when you put stock muffler on, may be rich at slower speeds as the closed loop kicks in at a certain speed.

Sounds like a good option! So I guess the stock Ecu will follow the extra boost and add fuel? Go to high and get into over boost like any stock turbo and Ecu would do.

It’s a bit hard to get at but allot easier than removing skid. If you have a way to lift back of sled off the ground and use a big block under front of track gives you a bit more room.

it is a disease for sure, lol. Yes you need this for 140MPH 1320 on pump gas :)

I have the 3" mod stock (and 2.5) it has a bite to it but I am sure quieter than what you have now. What I do know is it is about 1.4 db louder than the 2.5 mod stock, this is about 25% more sound energy and about 10% louder to the human ear. The 3" mod stock is a good compromise. I like...

What sledfreak said. But you can take blocks off shaft and just use shaft, will transfer a bit more

Ok I did not understand. I thought you had the TD data logging and some how integrated to NS1. This data is not that usefull but kind of looks like you have boost and getting rpm.

Gauge flashing is knock and don’t want that. Lots can go on with timing before the knock light. Look at your data log with timing retard turned on (you can select this from current log). And if you have afr setup look at that on log as well, this may be most helpful figuring out your fuel...

Yes. But think a good battery should crank it over. The odd time a battery can do odd things, go open or short under load. I know you said you tried jumping it, but try another battery or fully test current one.

Something odd going on. If starter is faulty almost seems like 2 problems? Does the 12.4v at battery change when turn key to start... go to 0 ?

Hard to say for sure. But start with the basics. Battery may be bad? Even if you have some sensor or other electrical problem should at least crank over even if doesn’t start. Put volt meter on battery do you have 12-13 volts? Try to start what does voltage do at battery?

The closed loop is speed activated.

I think for the most part a louder muffler will add HP, even if they say does not need a tune likely taking you to the lean side as there is nothing adjusting fuel for this. And 20HP (free flowing muffler) could get into into over-boost- your sled will cut out and not run on stock tune. And not...

I was there. On the ice 1. sidewinder, 2. Polaris 850, 3. Mach. I was not paying as much attention to the snow race but Sidewinder way out in front but think 850 and Mach were closer on snow? DMCTurbo can correct me if I have the snow race wrong. All Stock sleds.

1mm is no worry, only 1/2mm Bigger effectively really. If your in Canada Gamma has wheels, not sure if better than stock but more affordable. Just don’t have enough miles on them yet.

You running header? If so 18lbs is about all the waist-gate spring will hold. So I would say there is no signal going to your actuator. Your lower tunes should be opening the waist gate sooner, so you could be just on the spring.

They want you to run more RPM on the tunes. So if just changing primary clutching may just need a bit more weight over stock in the Dalton. The Daltons are easy to adjust on the trail so not a big deal to set up.

That's allot of gear! and running a mile or more is hardcore! :) the 998 does seem to like gear in a radar/ice application

Yes you can leave brace on sled. But need to heat a bit getting bearing/shaft out, and in.

Certainly not a bad idea to try another regulator at this point. But if you need 50psi on any of the pump gas tunes out there likely something else wrong. Wondering if your fuel pressure is actually low or your AFR reading is wrong. Has your deto light come on at all under acceleration?