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Sounds like the sled got hot, you can’t let these SW idle long if they are already close to operating temps or if temps are not that cold outside, only time you can is when you first start it after sitting for a long period of time like first thing in the morning, few weeks ago started mine in...
You need to remove the rov and do the bypass like most on here have done, clean the oil tank good with brake clean and use permatex “the right stuff” and it should be good for a long time, My oil tank leaked on my first ride on my 20, it’s been good ever since.
My chain was the same.. adjust to 1 1/2 turns and checked it every 1000k since new and it was always around 2.5 or a bit more turns out. Now at 9800k it seems like it slowed down some from stretching.
Yes same pattern as C&A and Curves. When I bought mine the only carbide in stock were the shaper bar. I can tell you they absolutely don’t dart even on frozen trails, they track extremely straight, it’s something do do with the reverse angle keel. Not to mention that they rail in the corners...
The heated rov is tucked under the steering post and isn’t easy to get at, it’s been over 2 years and my memory can’t remember what exactly I took apart to get at it lol.. I didn’t do anything between putting the fuses that blew and the 4th that has been good since then.. had me in aw on how or...
I had something similar to what you are experiencing, back in late 21 when doing the rov delete on my 20 SW after taping up the rov wires and putting sled back together turn the key and had no dash but heard the fuel pump turn on, turned out the fuse was blown even though I didn’t do anything to...
Ok I have a different brand straight rate.. Imo suspension settings affect snowtrackers more than some think they do and your 2nd post is more proof that it does.
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