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I have no first hand experience with this exact exhaust, but anything I’ve ever heard branded “rumble pack” from sno-stuff has been extremely loud. The “trail” series exhaust from MBRP are hit and miss in terms of volume, really depends on the sled. Smart money says the sno-stuff exhaust will...

I did this ish last season putting a smashed ‘16 Ape back together again. If you want to go 136/137 you need some sort of tunnel extension. I did what @RobX suggested and grabbed a Muffin Works extension from Barn of Parts. Here’s a couple crappy pics…..

I’ve had two of Allen’s headers now on two different Apes and no issues. I still maintain the sled I bought the first one for and I’ve had to replace flex pipes on that sled but the header was still perfect. Performance wise it’s tough to say because I’ve run his header, MOD airbox and PCV on...

Allen Ulmer would likely be the guy to talk to about this kind of thing. You’d be best to call the Ulmer Racing shop to get a hold of him, he’s generally pretty busy this time of year. @Srxspec

Really depends on the sled. The four holers with the gear reduction are really easy on clutch parts, springs included. I wouldn’t be in a hurry to replace them at 10k. The triple four strokes are much harder on things because of harmonic issues so I’d be replacing springs in them far more...

The “get the choke off ASAP” thing with the carbed sleds started with the RX-1. I ran an RS Nytro for years and NEVER fouled a plug leaving the choke on for as long as it took for the sled to idle decently. If it started to stumble sliding it off I’d give it some more for a while longer...

Nice look’n new ride @steiner. I’ve got a parts list for converting the EC Ohlins over to a manual hi/lo compression clicker instead of the silly servo. Shoot me a PM if you’d like it.

Normally I’d agree but usually you can find a “happy place” with the choke and keep it running ish. Doesn’t sound like that’s the case here. I still say take it out and flog it for one/two hours, see what happens after that.

The pilots on those three holers are SOOO tiny, if they’re gummed up at replacement is the best option, although it’s strange half choke won’t keep it running. New plugs were on the list? I’ve had carbed 973’s that act very strange when cold out of storage come around 100% after a good long...

The billet aluminum blocks with oilite inserts Ulmer sells are a great upgrade if you don’t mind spending the money. I used these last fall when I built my ‘16 Apex and was amazed how much it tightened things up. They’re self lubricating so the rest of the sled will likely wear out before you...

Haven’t heard ANYTHING good about aftermarket starter’s for Yammy’s.

Correct, Allen Ulmer told me the same thing last season.

They will.

Running lean stock was a thing, free flowing exhaust will make things even worse. I managed to find a NOS PCV last winter, so they are out there if you poke around a little. If you’re dicking with modified intake or exhaust you’ll need one to see much benefit from the mods.

You build something with popsicle sticks and tape and this is the result…… can’t take much abuse. Nice to see you bringing her back to life Tom, good job.

Folks are away for a couple weeks so a perfect time to use Dad’s shop to pre-season a few toboggans.

What else is American Thanksgiving for?

No problem, glad I could help. Here’s hoping we all have a great season.

Is the primary clutch still on the sled? If you haven’t removed the clutch bolt and the lock washer isn’t dead-nuts centred the bushing with be coming in contact with it and be very snug. Been there, done that.

Rails, rear arm, transfer rod, upper carrier wheels, coil spring, all different but similar. Both are Monoshock skids. Sled also needs a tunnel extension. I agree with Maim, either order up a Tracks USA extension package or better yet, get in touch with @hibshman25 at Barn of Parts and have...