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My ‘11 XTX had the Star upgrade, custom valved shocks, and I tried several different rates of torsion springs, still prefer a well setup Mono 136/137 for where and how I ride. Tuned enough the 144 CK skid got pretty close, and if you’re set on a longer track it’s a fantastic all around sled, I...

I’ve run both suspension in DB sleds and I’ll take a stretched Mono 100% over the CK skid. With the right spring selection/valving the Mono is quite capable in the rough and still rides much plusher than the CK in all conditions. I’ve had 121, 136, and now a 146” custom tipped rail Mono skid...

I’ll give you $6k and you’re actually stealing from me a little bit. :D

That notwithstanding, things have been extremely quiet, which surprises me. Maybe once the dust settles a few may open up about what could have been.

One of the main reasons I gave mine up was the fact I couldn’t quite get my feet far enough forward to be comfortable on really long days, even with a taller seat. Ergo wise I loved everything else about it after a steering relocate to level the plain of the handlebars.

@kinger touched on it, but the lack of decent suspension/chassis calibration has always been a weekness for the big Y. All three of the other OEMs do a much better job of delivering a product off the showroom floor that performs well for the average person without a bunch of fiddling by the end...

If I had hung on to my modded Nytro I would have removed the aftermarket spindles STAIN has mentioned and given the Polaris spindles a whirl. I loved that sled in the woods, but spend far more time cruising way up North these days so found my way back to a EPS Apex and love it for what it is...

Frank at Shocktec has a good reputation, several family members and other guys I ride with have used him and been happy. I’m close to Peak Velocity in Claremont, Dean has done my shock work for years and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend him from my own experiences.

Correctors are also deeper on the aggressive set, not just the carbide.

Should be a code on the dash with the yellow light, the code # will lead you in the right direction. The code list can be found in the FAQ section at the top of this Apex forum. That yellow light will also illuminate if the sled is low on fuel.

My Dad lost at least one piston even after installing those customs tapered needles. His sled was an ‘89 with the round slide Mikunes.

What are you up to with B’s Attak?

Just a guess, but they’re much quieter to ride, get much better fuel economy, seem to handle a little better with their slightly different engine positioning and lighter front end weight, also seem to start a little better in extreme cold and are just as bulletproof reliable motor wise. I had...

A properly tuned Vec is no joke, they will surprise a lot of people. The carbed 973 does feel a little soft compared to a fuelie, but they can both be made to run with the right bits and bites.

If the bearing completely fails and disintegrates the wheel, washer and spacer will indeed go for a ride. There’s nothing to stop that from happening. I’ve seen it more than once when skid maintenance has been ignored.

At what speed? Gotta’ say a stock Nytro or Apex feels stronger, lights up quicker at typical trail speeds than a stock ‘Winder. However even a stage one tune on the ‘Winder changes this feeling of being a little soft down low a ton.

I don’t think you can go wrong with either kit to be honest. What brought you back to an Apex from a ‘winder?

How is this already turning into a maintenance comparison thread?

Sorry, not sure. I’ve never had a Viper and don’t see myself going down that road unless I found one for an unbelievable deal. I did run the Hurricane/Hindle kit on a Nytro for three seasons and it certainly made great power, no question about it.

Super jealous. Ride safe.