Search results

Exactly my nephews pulled the crimped end right off the cable

Yes!! My nephew bought a knock off set on scamazon & literally his first ride of the season (& i hate the term literally) he lost the end out of the right side one, the end pulled right out of the cable, ive had the name brand & after thousands of miles I’ve never had one pull apart

I think the last time I removed & reinstalled mine i used a 3/8 drive pass thru ratchet with a shallow socket which with the pass thru ratchet makes it an extra shallow socket& is great for tight clearance areas,as for under the hood yes I don’t know of any other way to get to the bolts & nuts

Happy belated birthday tom, sorry im late to the party kinda like the snow this year ugh, thanks for everything you do to make this site the best!!

Yes all the mono shocks shocks will interchange,mono 1,mono 2

My first question is fuel, what gas is in it? Is this old fuel?ethanol or non ethanol? As far as starting he was talking about people who will start the sled& run it a minute & shut it off, then 2 weeks later they do the same thing, this will sometimes cause spark plug fouling, please tell us...

Generally if your doing a standard carb cleaning you don’t remove or adjust the screws that are used for carb syncing, after cleaning & when ready to sync carbs you adjust the screws he shows in the video

If you dont have an adjustable head hand riveter( I believe mine is a stanley brand) theres no issue with using stainless steel button head Allen bolts & locknuts, alot of these pieces are assembled at the factory before the engine is installed

Your pics may be too large as I cannot view them,which shields are you trying to replace

Assuming you pulled the main jets out of the carb throats? And your sure the 2 similar jets in the bowl area didn’t get mixed up on one of the carbs? It’s classic rx1 carb symptoms with choke needing to be on & not revving up, the old saying on rx1 carbs is clean the carbs& then clean the carbs...

Were the carbs disassembled 1 were the carbs disassembled one at a time?

Yes reread post try light heat first& light tap with brass or deadblow hammer, the shaft it slides onto is fairly small so shouldn’t be too stuck, maybe got some loctite in there from the bolt upon prior install & if so the heat will help loosen the loctite

If you have removed the small snapring& bolt the spring pressure should push that collar right out, not an item that is typically stuck?? Look closely with a good flashlight & verify you have all hardware removed, normally you hold pressure against it while removing the bolt to keep it from...

The bolts should easily slide right out I would also suspect they are bent & will require careful cutting of the bolts, or stuck in the spindle sleeves, make sure to use a nut on the bolt threads to prevent mushrooming,try some heat with mapp gas just don’t go crazy& lots of penetrating fluid...

I don’t know of any kits,usually I purchase good quality bearings from a bearing supplier,generally online you can get a discount for buying in quantity,most of the rear suspension bushings I purchase from yamaha as they are usually not readily available aftermarket, some people use just cheap...

Has the chaincase been apart? Many times the linkage components don’t get reassembled correctly, if you could post a couple pics of your linkage it may help confirm everything is in correct order & position

I wasn’t talking about regreasing the speedometer bearing i was talking about the secondary shaft bearing, this bearing is not easy to replace & requires chaincase disassembly,everyone has different opinions but ive been cleaning & regreasing mine on my rx1/apex conversion for 13,500 miles along...

I would use oem parts, the bearing is about $40,alot of the aftermarket bearings have steel shields & makes them harder to regrease than the rubber seal type oem bearing.sometimes you can find speed sensors used,otherwise new is about $100 .sometimes the 2 bearing mounting plates are damaged but...