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The want behind making an oil tank is the fact that since I was able to move the motor so far over in the chassis the factory oil tank now sticks out further than the primary clutch bolt if measuring from the center of the frame. Wrapped a string around the factory oil tank in 3 spots...

Carbon fiber would be the ticket for keeping weight down.

I would rather have a heavier tank on the side then put the oil weight in front of the motor. The factory oil tank is about 5.25” deep. Would like to make one that’s about 2.5” if I can get the volume. Very crude but this is a rough idea of what I’m after. Nytro tank is 11” tall, I have the...

Thanks. I’ll see what I can come up.

Now that the cooling is done I need to get a move on the oil tank. I really don’t want to use the factory Nytro oil tank if I don’t have to. I would like to make a custom oil tank that is wider with less depth so the body panel can be narrower on that side but I’m not sure where to start. 1...

Blue silicone hoses 0.82 lbs for both Alu tubes w/ hoses as pictured 0.70 lbs 1.91 lbs for the t-stat, fill neck & hoses. Kept 3 hose clamps so the whole assembly can be removed. These are USA Ideal hose clamps, lightest I could find, 7.8g for the hose clamp, 6.4g for a Gates Powergrip...

PowerGrip hose clamps showed up today. NAPA wanted $8.50 ea for their brand, most online places wanted $5-7 for the Gates. Rock Auto was selling them in boxes of 10 for $29.80 so I bought 2 boxes. Gates 32934 is the one specified for 1” ID hose. Since most of my hoses are sliding over 1” tube...

Hijacks are good, lots of helpful information being talked about.

I definitely do not want heat issues. Weight is obviously important to me but not at the expensive of engine performance and/or reliability which is one of the reasons I put the thermostat back in on this build.

I’ll check it out. Thanks

Couldn’t live with the blue hoses. Bought a piece of 1” x .049 5052 tubing and bent some coolant tubes. It’s not finalized yet but getting close. Comparison

Good to know. I think for now I’ll leave it in place for the first couple rides and then I can try disconnecting the small hose from the fill neck, plug the overflow bottle and ride that way for a few more rides. Then if there was an issue I could reconnect the overflow bottle in the field to...

I don’t know to be honest. I didn’t run one for a couple years either but I had a larger fill bottle. I also ran without the t-stat in the housing but I put it back in for this build.

Coolant overflow hardware. 7075 aluminum bolt cut to length, 7075 nut, Alu reducer for bottle and .040 steel tab. 8.54 g for all of it. Tabs welded in place. The .040 lower tab on the 3/4 tube was 3.94 g Reducer in bottle for 8mm bolt. Factory bolt on the Nytro was a special 6mm steel bolt...

Coolant overflow bottle, better to do be high or low? Does it matter? I want to put it here, it’s the most protected spot I have up front while keeping good access to the fill cap.

Don’t have the rest of the Ti bolts yet but the anti-seize I ordered showed up today and I was itching to get the cover on and see what it would look like. Seal plug installed. Did a bunch of reading on various products for titanium and this had good reviews. It’s an anti-seize for steel...

Some more boring hardware stuff while I wait for parts. Ti bolt for upper gear. I’m going to stick with the snap ring for now & see how it holds up but this will be option 2 of the snap ring gives me any problems. 30.81 g 4.24 g 6061 aluminum drain plug. It came with an aluminum crush...

Placed another order with RaceTi in UK a few weeks ago which showed up today. (6) 8mm upper bearing flange bolts steel - 69.88 g Ti - 31.26 g difference 38.72 g (Bottom bolts are brake caliper) (2) 10mm brake caliper bolts steel - 43.37 g Ti (20mm cut down to 14mm) - 15.94 g difference -...

7075 aluminum washer made. Exact fit to gear. Permanent marker on washer and crudely lapped against gear to check for fitment. After I got the tapered portion sized correctly and before I cut it off, I turned it down .002 at a time until all movement was gone from the gear with the bolt...

Dang, you broke a non-reverse lower bolt? If that’s the case I’m definitely making a washer that fills the space and takes the load off the bolt.