Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I definitely do not want heat issues. Weight is obviously important to me but not at the expensive of engine performance and/or reliability which is one of the reasons I put the thermostat back in on this build.
Glycols are denser and have significantly lower specific heat capacity when compared to water. Water is the best coolant… if it didn’t freeze, boil (to some degree as increased system pressure takes care of much) and corrode things, we wouldn’t need to add anything to it.
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Which begs the question of why Yamaha is filling some recent sleds I have looked at with 100% anti-freeze (no water). I would have though the lower boiling point of water was an essential part of the convection cooling system they have in place post engine shutdown. Sorry Nikolai for the short hijack. Back to your regularly scheduled awesome build channel!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Hijacks are good, lots of helpful information being talked about.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
PowerGrip hose clamps showed up today. NAPA wanted $8.50 ea for their brand, most online places wanted $5-7 for the Gates. Rock Auto was selling them in boxes of 10 for $29.80 so I bought 2 boxes.
Gates 32934 is the one specified for 1” ID hose. Since most of my hoses are sliding over 1” tube without any kind bead I sacrificed a clamp to do a test. Currently have it sitting at 25 lbs.
Gates 32934 is the one specified for 1” ID hose. Since most of my hoses are sliding over 1” tube without any kind bead I sacrificed a clamp to do a test. Currently have it sitting at 25 lbs.
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Blue silicone hoses 0.82 lbs for both
Alu tubes w/ hoses as pictured 0.70 lbs
1.91 lbs for the t-stat, fill neck & hoses. Kept 3 hose clamps so the whole assembly can be removed. These are USA Ideal hose clamps, lightest I could find, 7.8g for the hose clamp, 6.4g for a Gates Powergrip. Minimal weight difference but cleaner look.
Bent tubes were a pain. I wanted to get the fill neck closer to the valve cover to stay compact but I couldn’t get the bends close enough to together in my bender. Oh well, still better looking than the blue hoses.
Aside from welding up the rear cooler the cooling system portion is done.
Alu tubes w/ hoses as pictured 0.70 lbs
1.91 lbs for the t-stat, fill neck & hoses. Kept 3 hose clamps so the whole assembly can be removed. These are USA Ideal hose clamps, lightest I could find, 7.8g for the hose clamp, 6.4g for a Gates Powergrip. Minimal weight difference but cleaner look.
Bent tubes were a pain. I wanted to get the fill neck closer to the valve cover to stay compact but I couldn’t get the bends close enough to together in my bender. Oh well, still better looking than the blue hoses.
Aside from welding up the rear cooler the cooling system portion is done.
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Now that the cooling is done I need to get a move on the oil tank. I really don’t want to use the factory Nytro oil tank if I don’t have to. I would like to make a custom oil tank that is wider with less depth so the body panel can be narrower on that side but I’m not sure where to start.
1. Capacity. Do I fill the Nytro tank I have with water, check the volume and make sure the custom tank is equal to it? As long as volume is the same does profile matter?
2. Debating doing away with the dipstick and running a sight glass instead. Be easy enough to make marks every 1/2 quart and easier to monitor oil level after a roll over.
3. Baffles. Wondering how important it is to perfectly mimic the factory baffling if I have a completely different shape for an oil tank? Anything special to consider with baffles?
Thoughts on any of the above?
1. Capacity. Do I fill the Nytro tank I have with water, check the volume and make sure the custom tank is equal to it? As long as volume is the same does profile matter?
2. Debating doing away with the dipstick and running a sight glass instead. Be easy enough to make marks every 1/2 quart and easier to monitor oil level after a roll over.
3. Baffles. Wondering how important it is to perfectly mimic the factory baffling if I have a completely different shape for an oil tank? Anything special to consider with baffles?
Thoughts on any of the above?
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1. Make the capacity as much or more than what the factory tank is. Oil temperature can be deadly if you run a smaller tank, especially with extra horsepower.
2. Makes no difference.
3. Try to mimic the baffling if you can, not enough baffling causes the oil to become aerated, that is bad.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks. I’ll see what I can come up.
I would agree on capacity and baffles, you don't want oil to get aerated, and you a taller profile (less surface area where oil could meet air) is better than a shallow wide profile.
74Nitro
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- 2019 Sidewinder LTX
Is it possible to use the stock tank and mount it in front of the engine?
The stock tank is very lightweight, it may be difficult to build one as light.....?
The stock tank is very lightweight, it may be difficult to build one as light.....?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I would rather have a heavier tank on the side then put the oil weight in front of the motor.
The factory oil tank is about 5.25” deep. Would like to make one that’s about 2.5” if I can get the volume.
Very crude but this is a rough idea of what I’m after. Nytro tank is 11” tall, I have the cardboard at 11” as well.
The factory oil tank is about 5.25” deep. Would like to make one that’s about 2.5” if I can get the volume.
Very crude but this is a rough idea of what I’m after. Nytro tank is 11” tall, I have the cardboard at 11” as well.
74Nitro
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I'm sure if you build one it will be impressive.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Carbon fiber would be the ticket for keeping weight down.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The want behind making an oil tank is the fact that since I was able to move the motor so far over in the chassis the factory oil tank now sticks out further than the primary clutch bolt if measuring from the center of the frame.
Wrapped a string around the factory oil tank in 3 spots, circumference is 18.50” at the bottom, 18.25” in the middle and 15.75” at the top. Figuring an average of 18” that would be a 5.73” circle with an area of 25.78” sq in. Not exact but should be close.
Increasing the depth of my tank to 3” gets me the same area. This is the profile I’m currently thinking about.
Wrapped a string around the factory oil tank in 3 spots, circumference is 18.50” at the bottom, 18.25” in the middle and 15.75” at the top. Figuring an average of 18” that would be a 5.73” circle with an area of 25.78” sq in. Not exact but should be close.
Increasing the depth of my tank to 3” gets me the same area. This is the profile I’m currently thinking about.
