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When it does it, jump the relay posts to see if it is the starter. If it starts this way but not with the switch, you likely got a dud relay unless the relay is not getting energized, which could be the ignition switch, which you could jump there too.
I wonder if the temp sensor is off its readings. In diagnostic mode, start it and watch the temps as it warms up and if it changes when the motor starts running rough or at what temp.
Is it possible that an ignition coil is going bad where it's fine when cold but cuts out once warm? Seen...
Have you tried to adjust the idle speed? Maybe it's just set too low. On cold startup it will run at fast RPM and then slow down as it warms up. If you base idle is too slow, it could stall.
Then there the throttle position sensor that could need adjustment. There are a few threads on that...
My apologies. I looked up the wrongs specs. They should be between 6.75-8.25Ω so they're fine. Forgot to mention that you should also check if either are shorting to ground. On each grip on either wire, resistance should be infinite. Check all connections for corrosion as that would...
Check the resistance of the grips. If there is too much current, the ECU shuts them off. Resistance should be between 1.53-1.87Ω for the grips. 37.0-45.2Ω for the thumb warmer.
Don't you just love those! I did some work for a guy who bought one not knowing what to look for. It had almost all the problems that *we* know about. Mostly mechanical issues. Took 57 hours of work to get it to a rideable condition. The only issue he has left is long cranking times because...
If it's limiting RPM, it thinks it's either in R or it doesn't know what it's in.
Have you Tried starting it by turning the key straight to crank? This is a bypass mode to get it to shift. I used to do this when it would do nothing when pushing the button and I had to shut down and restart...
Could be the brand. I go with NTN on the important less accessible bearings. And I also always add more synthetic grease as they are usually cheap with the initial fill.
Looked at the schematic, seems to be a normally open switch to ground.
I can't see how a diode would work. You need something to temporarily connect ground to that wire while cranking only.
Try shorting or unplugging the oil pressure sensor (can't remember if it's a normally open or closed switch). The ECU is looking for oil pressure before firing the injectors, which was corrected in the updated ECU.
If that works, you could come up with a relay system that will mimic the oil...
Haven't seen or heard of them going bad. More than likely a bad ground or connection. One possible culprit is the main ground wire from the battery where it corrodes at the spade connector. I also had that code when my main ground block melted.
I don't remember it being that long though. Mine were just a short hose with a 90 deg. elbow pointing down. You could just use a short piece of vacuum hose and point it down as long as it's not kinked.
Rise O' ye dead thread! o_O
I think it's most of North America that's suffering the same. With El-Nino this year, it's gonna suck. Might as well just put the sled away and stick my trail pass on my tool box :(
The valves may also be leaking. Best way to tell without opening it is with a leakdown test. That's how I determined that I had a bad head gasket and leaky valves. I gave my valves a good lapping, proper adjustment (they were almost all tight), got the head flat and new gasket and she was as...
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