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I have used a broken one for 6 years now and it makes no difference at all. The tank is held down by the two spars that come out the handle bar support.

As far as I am concerned Oil is Oil as long as it meets the specs. I regularly use 0-40 Mobile One or T6 Rotella in all my machines for the past 15 years. Yamaha, Polaris, Arctic Cat, Ford, GMC etc are not in the oil business. They sub it out to a manufacturer and likely at the best price.

I have a friend that just did his Crosstour 7000 and when he was done he had to move the tie rods all the way out on one side and all the way in on the other side. He swears that he did it correctly. I did two Vipers and no issues at all what so ever. Strange.

Become a VIP member and the Admins will send you a shop manual. Well worth the investment.

I am a present user of the steering bushings. If I win I will buy the greaseable A arm ones.

If you cant get the factory one, go to Princess Auto and get a welders blanket and make your own. That piece is absolutely a must. I have an MPI and a Hurricane turbo and have had no plastic deformities in over 40,000 combined KM's

I have broken that exact same front suspension arm. When I got my new one, I welded some gussets on them to prevent it happening again. I would replace the bushing when you can but not worry about it for this trip. Weld up the Arm and enjoy your trip.

On the Vipers there were spacers that accommodated the smaller bolts. I found this out when I tried to put a shock onto a 7000. I would assume the Sidewinder is the same.

Well as for you GPS, I highly recommend Rocztoyz power supply. I wired it into the lighter (he makes it plug and play). I have a Garmin mount and i wired the holder to an RCA plug. I then plug it into the power supply on one side and my visor cord on the other. I also have two USB plugs should...

did they change the switch as well? Maybe it is the wrong switch without the resistors in it.

great that he is going to make it right. Once you are into the chain case I always replace all the bearings. Just cheap insurance and way less than replacing the case parts.

Its easier if its off, but I have done mine a few times without removing it. Easy to press out once brace is removed.

One Viper down, other one just about done. Feels good to get them done so that I can just pull them out and ride them.

The chaincase bearings, although continually lubed, should still be replaced every couple of years. I replaced upper gear in my viper and felt the bearings and they both felt great. 2000K later the upper one grenaded and took out both sides of the chain case. I took apart my sons whos was...

Its already fused. I made a pig tail from the lighter socket.

Aunt Harriet, Dick Grayson's Aunt if I remember right.

I know. I didn’t say I would help you but someone might.

Congratulations. I have two turbo 141's, so feel free to ask anything.

the cord has a 90 degree end on it so the wire comes off the side of the connector instead of straight out.

I run the Rocztoys power supply on my Vipers and have never had the cable come out of my iPhone in the goggle bag. I did by 90* cords for them as the regular ones were just a tad tight. Bag keeps phone warm, power supply keeps phone charged, Sena S50 keeps music flowing and Chubby Buttons makes...