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Sounds like there is something wrong, my 2010 xtx has only overheated after running down pavement for 2 km to get gas. The cooling system is stock but I replaced the coolant with a 60/40 mix for the colder temps. Check to see if the front exchanger is getting hot and also check if it's blocked...

Thanks for the update!! Glad to hear some others had some positive results. I hope to have more seat time by next week, that is if we get any snow!!

I do have some updates, have put on just under 1000 km so far so lots of seat time. 1. Cold start up low idle has not been an issue, there have been plenty of -25° starts. It does have a lumpy idle about 15 seconds after it fires but the idle stays up around 2000 rpm instead of falling to 1000...

You're right about finding a balance, try the strap in a few different locations just to get a feel for what it does and find the spot that allows acceptable cornering but still provides a good ride in the bumps. Remember that your transfer will affect ski lift in the corner as well.

The track should be tensioned to 1.125" to 1.375" sag with 22 lbs of weight pulling down, looks like you might be on the loose side. I would try loosening those front straps a few holes and tightening up the transfer in the rear. The suspension will not work very well when it is strapped down...

That plate is definitely needed to keep the chain engaged with the reverse gear, that's its purpose. Looks like it was taken out by the old stiff chain, definitely something that can be easily missed, not normal for that to wear.

They are underneath, silver in colour

Maybe a viper flap would work, they are a bit longer. I know a few people have put them on nytros. I think the xtx's are much worse than the other apex's, the flap is stuck straight out almost.

That looks to be a problem, that stiff chain could have done that for sure. Without the plate the chain will slip off that gear, which is how it drives the sled in reverse, replace that and I think you will be fine.

Nice! Those are the same wheels I got.

I don't think that nut dose anything actually, more just to hold everything together. I just synced the throttle bodies last night, they were out a bit but seemed to help with the response once they were equalized. The real test will be this weekend, I will compare the fuel mileage to our nytro...

They call it tunnel assembly actually

That bearing is located under the "frame" category, strange place to put the bearing, should be with the secondary.

You can't put oem bearings in those wheels since they are made for the wider bearings. They would probably just twist and fall off. Royal distributing has some larger wheels (135mm) with the stock bearings that work well in that location.

I like the belt on the tight side (close to 1 mm above) so you are probably ok just ride it and see if it keeps making the noise, if it does then remove a spacer to lower the belt closer to flush. All belts vary in length slightly so you might just have a belt that's on the smaller side.

The belt usually only squeels after the sled has moved, it won't when everything is cold for some reason.

It shouldn't sound different in the cold vs warm weather, may have to get a video capturing the noise.

Was it the rad fan that came on? Usually it can only be heard at idle.

No did not replace any sensors, only swapped the pressure sensors to see if they made a difference but it did not. I'm still running the originals. Should be able to give it a test just after christmas hopefully.