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Curiosity is asking what fly weights(part#) were used in this clutch ? And is it tuned?

Yes

Any diagnostic codes on the display?

You still have air in the system.... Is the sled tilted up on the PTO side... The ski bottom at least 12" off the floor

Np... Cheers

Your 180 degrees out

Just turn the engine clockwise on the MAG side and line up the indicator mark.... Just pop out the larger plug in the MAG cover.... Clockwise only on this side.... Sounds like you could be 180 degrees out

You need to remove muffler and access MAG and remove both plastic plugs small hole for timing window and the large one to turn engine crankshaft to position.... Also on this side of the engine you turn Clock Wise (MAG side) Based on your question, I recommend that you have someone experienced...

No need, during repair with PTO side up 10" fill to top of neck, keep squeezing the coolant hose, force air out, keep topping up, make sure cap is on during squeezing, once that level is maintained, lower PTO side, remove bleeder bolt from vapour tank and repeat the fill and squeeze method until...

Remove both clutches, tilt sled up so PTO side is 10" off the floor, drain pan under engine directly under water pump. Remove water pump and replace 2 cover O rings, mechanical seal, bearing, 2 dowel pins, oil seal, and impeller.... Reassemble, fill with coolant and bleed. Remember never ever...

If this is going to be your 3rd sensor you need to investigate the reason for sensor failures. Where is the sensor mounted on the exhaust system ? Fuel type? Are you using anything containing MMT? Amazon has the best price for the Bosch 17025 wideband O2

Np.... Also keep in mind that the make of a drive belt also contributes to final RPM level... The XS belts tend to decrease RPM on average by 200 for example, so keep that in mind when adjusting fly weights. Cheers

For the 270.... 69g is a good starting point to dial in the rpm.

Dam it!!! Again Val.... OK.... Count me in as well... Cheers and Happy New Year

As much as I would like to respond to your reply, I will bite my tongue.... And exercise a level of professionalism..... Cheers

Geez.... You guys really split atoms over this, non issue and rest easy. ROV delete is actually a preventative/avoidance of reclaimed oil vapours being reintroduced into the intake system. Just don't look under your oil filler cap on the valve cover of your vehicle on a cold morning start up...

Use a heavy weight oil, like gear oil, fill it just to the bottom of pulling threads, cut the puller about 1.5" from the beginning of the puller threads. Always leave the belt on, tie the clutch to the bulkhead support bar with a nylon strap. Use a impact and don't stop.... It will pop... It...

Below is the link for the flasher gapinnovation.com/hurricane/

Spin more by hand, also check for excessive lateral clearance of the rotor shaft . It will free up, turbine side might be a bit coked up, if there isn't any internal damage to the vanes. Inspect both the compressor and turbine vanes for damage.