Search results

Mostly checking that everything is in order. C-clip in the drive clutch. Oil pressure. Nothing frozen (turbo pressure valve, dump, wastegate). Overheating. Exhaust pipe (the flexible pipe can melt). Valve clearance. Stuff like that.

We have one here that has 15000 km... Mine has 2000 km. At sea level. Do it properly and it will last longer than any two stroke. But don't expect it to be as reliably as a stock Phazer, it will need som maintance and adjustments from time to time. If you just want speed and big horsepower...

MCX (Sweden) has a low boost kit for sale. I have no price info. Lots of opinions about fuel pump and btr (bränsletrycksregulator translate = fuel pressure regulator), but I run 0,8-1,0 with no problem whatsoever, stock pump and BTR.

Don't use stainless.

You won't need race gas if you use a head shim. The Phazer engine is already quite high tech. If you don't want to lower the compression of fear of turbo lag there's better ways to avoid it. 1. Move the dump valve closer to the inlet. 2. Make sure you feed the turbo with really hot (and...

I guess that what you call race gas in USA is the same as premium over here (Sweden). So it is a bit easier for us to ride with boost.

I ride with turbo and 142,5 hp. No problems (well no engine proplems)./

I ride a turbo. No air box.

Tried that. It burned.

Yes it did go from 1000 rpm to 1350. That's maximum.

Ended up with placing it like this. Did put a modified hand varmer in the handlebar bag. Perfect for keeping goggles, cellular and cap varm and dry.

No #*$&@ Sherlock. Any clue of where to start?

I tried to adjust the idle on my Phazer turbo, but can't reach more then 1350 when it's (really) hot. Idle adjustment screw is al the way in. What more to do to get idle higher?

Blow a bit of compressed air into the vent hose on top of the oil reservoir (or take it of an blow into the can). Don't over do it! Just close the hose of with fingers or a cloth. Fill up to the mark and redo it until it's fixed. Tried it and it works. You can also fix the problem by tilting...

Had the same problem. Old fuel...

I disagree. It's a huge improvement. But I do recommend a lot more negative camber. Guess I have 15-18mm now. But you do have to set toe-out afterwards, should be about 15 mm. I have also changed the caster (spindle from Nytro) and shimmed the ski rubber to put pressure on the back of the ski.

Nothing.

Oh. Now I see it!

What's up with your air box?

Hahahahahaha! Sorry man, but that edit is nothing less than brilliant.