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Has anyone tried one of these or heard any feedback? Tempted to give it a try. Not sure exactly how it works. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/155940118676?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yrvhBFmlTF2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Just wondering how this is coming along.

I had this on my 2017 SW when new. Almost felt like steering was locking up. Needed to apply a lot of force to turn. Really felt off. One day I lifted my front end and found a lot of resistance in the steering. I greased the bushings on the steering column and issue seemed to go away. Sled was...

So, when the suspension arm makes contact with the coupler block, the suspension is not bottoming out. But it does couple at this point and gets stiffer which helps with ski lift and helps prevent bottoming. If the suspension arm is touching the block with no one on it, then something seems off...

So. Got everything together and started my sled up to let it warm up and check for leaks. First thing I notice is that sleds warms up to around 70-75C and basically stays there. This has never happened with this machine ever. Temperatures would always continue to climb until the sled shut off...

Ok. Good to know. Last time I filled my sled with coolant I wasn’t aware of this bleeder screw. So I’m guessing I never got all the air out of the system. Wondering if that was the root cause of my impeller failure.

Ok. So I got the air out. It was sitting about 12” high. All of sudden it just started to clear out the air and filled up the Canister. Seems good now. Thanks for the help.

I hear that the screw on the canister above the turbo is the bleed screw. Should I put coolant in here? Nothing is coming out and it’s full.

Thanks man. Got it.

I’m lined up. There are 2 marks horizontal across flywheel connected by a line running horizontal. Then one more mark. After those. I’ve tried lining up with all three and no luck.

How do you tell TDC? I see 2 sets of marks on flywheel. Which one is TDC on #3. Trying to remove water pump.

That makes sense. I wonder if we could change over to constant tensions clamps.

Plastic.

I found a water pump impeller and shaft I had from a Nytro. After checking part numbers it seems the Nytro and Sidewinder have the same parts. I don’t seem to hear much about failures on the Nytros.

Yeah ok makes sense. So essentially it can either be attached to chassis or attached to mid-pipe. Not both.

IMO the problem is that the far end, closest to the tunnel, isn’t connected anything. So it vibrates, moved around, and eventually cracks around the bolts that mount to the header. The viper design makes a lot more sense.

Thanks appreciate the info. I should be fine. I’ve rebuilt Thanks appreciate your info. I should be fine. I’ve rebuilt a couple Nytro engines from the block up. I was just hoping that maybe there was a simple way to get TDC without having to dismantle too much.

Thanks. What’s the best way to determine TDC on number one?

Wonder if this will work on our Sidewinders? https://speedwerx.com/water-pump-self-bleeding-kit-wildcat-xx.html

What involved in changing your the impeller? Do you need to replace shaft and impeller as a unit?