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It rides on top of the snow in stead of plowing through it :rules I will admit the Yamahas skid did an amazing job on the stutter bumps

:yam: but it took an AC skid to make it ride like it should :tg: lol

I WAS GLAD I WENT 4 wheels when I put the new track on!

try the technical pages. there at ty home short cut at the top of the page

I got a tree branch in to the out side of the track. I checked it seemed ok no wobble but about 5 miles down the trail I felt it wobble and hit my running board at about 80. Never did find it!:dunno:

Here is one good reason to run four wheel rear axle! Those two wheel kit sure look cool but I would rather ride out then walk out!

yes the whole pattern the same on the mountain skis as the factory skis! I used stock ski carbids on my mountain skis.

try tractor supply (ez flow Aluminum welding rod ) for $13.00 same as Durafix Aluminum welding rod one third the price

todd 2006 ATTAK: cold

the braces are made by Sno-Stuff Universal Snow Flap Support Bracket Dennis Kirk Part #: 391800 Manufacturer Part #: 561700 they are about$7.00 us have used them in the past

The only type of lube that is safe to use is dry graphite powder can be bought at any hardware store. It is safe to use on Roller bushings, flyweight bushing, and sheave bushings and slides. Racers have been using it for years.

I made them; I think I still have the dimensions that I used to make them. They where a square block with the threaded hole offset so each flat was a different height. To allow for fine tuning when the coupling action happened.

I would suggest trying rear coupling blocks. Here are a few photos of ac skids with them; you can loosen up your fount limiter straps and generally soften up rear spring.

This set up rocks on the trail hooks up on packed trail there is some track spin but if dose not spin out (lose grip) like the Yamaha skid did. Also stretched it to 144 inch camoplast 9173H 15x144x1.25" Ice Ripper XT! I am running the track very loose (1 3/4' to 2 1/4" of slack) and so far no...

I used t6160 that was just under 1/4 thick, Had to flex the tunnel to get the rear skid arm in place. So far it is working great! I am running the track very loose (1 1/2' to 2" of slack) and so far no ratcheting.

I went to install my new 40 tooth sprocket an it is for a non reverse model. So for now I will be running an 38 tooth! :die

I just took out my attak from summer storage and fired it up sounded about the same! I drained the old gas and put in fresh gas. The idle soothed out, the clutch rattle And the hard starting went away. I would give that a try first. :Rockon:

How far can you cut the stock primary back before you would cause problems with the ramps sticking the primary closed?