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Lol, it's an amazing site, so whatever works! Enjoy the 4stroke! Whenever I start to second guess my suspension setup or ride quality, I just mash the throttle and all of my worries dissappear! Good luck.

It was moved to the RS section because it IS an RS. The FX Nytro is a totally different chassis. The first couple of years the Nytro was built on the RS chassis so any FX info doesn't apply to yours.

That's an RS Nytro, so it's a different chassis than our FX Nytros. You might find more info about your sled in the RS section. Good luck.

As usual, Grizztracks is right again! I extended mine to 136" with rail extensions only. I regret not going for the Star relocate kit. These machines do trench in deep snow and the relocate helps with that. If I had to do it over again, I would've done the relocate kit. Good luck.

In the search bar put- "tunnel block off plate" Under posted by member put- grizztracks " I found it right away and it has great pics. Good luck.

Yup, his user name is "grizztracks", no capitals. Try to send him a PM.

I have a Ripsaw2 with the 1-1/4" lug. I absolutely love it but when off-trail I sometimes wish it had a deeper lug. I don't run studs and it hooks up like crazy on-trail.

Not necessary. It allows air up there to cool the exhaust. You don't have to seal the area up. I actually think it's better to have it breath. If you just do everything that Grizz did to his Nytro, you'll have a great working machine. The guy is smart! I did his steering post relocate too. Good...

I'm pretty sure I copied Grizztracks' design. A flat piece with a flange on each side. I riveted it on the inside face of the tunnel protectors. I didn't go all the way to the front of the tunnel. You don't have to. About 2/3rd. of the length.

It does keep the snow off the exhaust but still allows lots of air up there to cool the pipes. It's a good mod that's really cheap. Stops a lot of the ice buildup that occurs in the tunnel. 1or 2 pounds if aluminum saves you from carrying 20-30 pounds of ice.

Cannondale, I've been reading the thread and it's very informative. I was trying to figure out why you are changing the jackshaft assembly? Is it an update, or a weight issue? Don't want to sound ignorant, but I read it all again and just wanted to ask why. Thanks for the great info.

I do remember reading a thread about trimming them but it was a long time ago. You could try doing a search. I put extroverts on my shorty and didn't have to, but I think the rails are different on the XTX. It may be just as easy to pull the skid out to trim them... Good luck.

It's true for all of their models accross the board. Each is designed with certain characteristics fo a rider to choose from. One for rough trail, one for cruising, one for touring, one for lake blasting. That's is what the RTX means, rough trail. LX could mean luxury. BT-X means back-country...

The RTX is geared for rough trails and is probably more of a ditch banger. So I would guess that it won't be as plush. It's pretty tough to have a cushy ride from a machine that's made to be pounded on.

Not to hijack the thread...

That track looks a lot like my Ripsaw 2 and I love it. Who makes it?

I have a couple of buddies that have bought some bearings and joints through Royal Distributing and they aren't quality. I wouldn't cheap out on bearings on my sled. I agree with Poor Logger that you should go with a known manufacturer for them. If it was just some old beater that you are...

I was warned that the All-balls stuff is from China junk. No biggie if you are just using the seals though.

Just put "bent subframe" into the search bar on this forum and go from there. You will either have to straighten yours or replace it. Replacement procedures are in the sticky FAQS. GrizzTracks sells a gusset kit that has to be welded in. Good luck.

Welcome to the bent subframe club. Do a search on this site about it and you will find all the answers needed. You have bent your subframe by the look of the gusset with the big round hole on the bottom of the frame. Good luck! It is fixable.