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I could have welded yes, but I don't weld aluminum, and got thinking if i ever had to swap the started it would be easier just to unbolt it. I cut off the tab on the bottom of the engine also to allow easier removal of the starter with just swinging the subframe ahead leaving the top left and...

I added a dedicated ground right to starter also.

Yes sir I have. Been starting flawlessly all winter so far. Got 500mi on the phazer so far this year. Worth the messing around. Added bonus is now get better than oem quality for $100 if i ever need to change it. Plus it’s rebuildable.

buy oem if this is your problem also, not the cheap amazon ones. if its just corroded get some dielectric in there she'll be fine.

right beside the battery is the starter solenoid relay, check for corrosion... eventually you'll find yourself turning the key a few times and it might go if this it was your problem is. common issue on Nytros due to location. I believe its the same relay on almost every yamaha for 20+ years.

In took my old starter to the Arctic cat parts guy. The f1100 starter is larger cranks faster fits the flywheel but the mounts are different. I got one I’m going to make it bolt on

With all the Denso starters used on all brands of sleds, there's got to be a direct swap starter that can help these poor little phazers from winding over and over so many times. I've never seen a sled that cranks so hard when cold or after sitting for a summer. Anyone have any ideas on that...

snowtrackers

Do you have a diagram on how that goes? I think I'm kind of in a mess I created myself couldn't get stock bushings out tried drilling at 18mm. I think I'm going to have to make my own kit oversize to 20mm-16mm sleeve now. These spindles are awful

So had the phazer a couple years now, and it came with after market grip heaters (koso wired in parallel). tired of the flashing yellow and code 81, and really prefer this on factory controls. I chased the wiring around and found they just cut the factory wires and taped them off, so I wired...

What is the outside diameter of the bushings. I'm having a heck of a time removing these. I fear drilling is the next step

interesting. do you know the diameter of the spindle with bushing removed?

07 phazer spindle bushings for ski bolt appear stuck.. I don't see a split in any of them but they are definitely 2piece approx 15mm in each side of spindle. I might try hacksaw to cut a split in them or drill them... Any tips to get these out? They look egged and wore thinner on outside...

So are you selling these? I've got bushings that appear stuck inside.., if I rehash the bushing That the ski bolt goes through was 16mm and from what I can tell the spndle is 18 or 19mm? I tried tapping it out with an 18mm driver and heat no luck. I don't see a split in the bushing on...

Hmm, that doesnt sound great. so if i get them hooked up with some resistance, i should be able to turn them off? right now the switch is inactive.... I thought from what I read RSI would work as good as the factory yamaha ones... any input on that? when you say good power like taillight...

Yes I have that exterior plastic you speak of the cage I was talking about was the cage that retains the balls. It was not like the continuous riveted steel one that covers the balls under the seal. The steel seal said Japan and 205 marked on it. I couldn't get an old nsk rubber seal to fit...

Well I've talked to koso. They are indeed wired in series. I've got the same connectors I'm going to fit on the yamaha harness and plug them in. I'll see how they perform. If insufficient sounds like rsi has an option for not much more than $100. Id like to get it back on factory control...

bumping a 6 year old post, but i wonder if its possible NTN was having these bearings supplied to them by another manufacturer? i just removed one from a nytro that looked just like that one on left, but appears now (from their website) they have the blue nitrile rubber seal with riveted steel...

I'm looking to get rid of a code 81 from after market grips... left one has 2 wires, right one only has one I'm guessing the other is buried deeper.. someone cut them and tucked the wires away... what grips should I use over top of the RSI if I go this route?

Cant find much on them for specifications, i sent them an email, and might be able to figure more out with a meter. hard to tellhow its wired from this. if they were in series would this setup not send more voltage to one grip if one happened to fail?