heated grips

[Dynomax666]

Handwarmers were cut by previous owner has a set of Koso after market ones (5 level with a single push button to operate) which do work fine, but i'd like to do two things: 1) Worried i might have a draw from these killing battery, 2) get rid of the code 81 flashing. the OEM heated thumb warmer still works fine and OEM control. I looked and whoever cut them left the old wires in place and taped them off, right side has 2 black wires, left appears to have only one (assuming if i cut this open there will be two further down, but I haven't chased it back to the plug yet.
Can these after markets (2 wire) be simply wired in, or how can i get the controls back to factory and get rid of code 81.

 

[THEPASMAN]

I just changed the factory ones on my MTX they are basically a sticker. Had to order a left and a right as apparently they are different even though they looked the same on the bench. It would be pretty simple to get the elements and the grips from a dealer. And then you’d know they will work
Not sure if that helps or not

 

[Shattered]

Handwarmers were cut by previous owner has a set of Koso after market ones (5 level with a single push button to operate) which do work fine, but i'd like to do two things: 1) Worried i might have a draw from these killing battery, 2) get rid of the code 81 flashing. the OEM heated thumb warmer still works fine and OEM control. I looked and whoever cut them left the old wires in place and taped them off, right side has 2 black wires, left appears to have only one (assuming if i cut this open there will be two further down, but I haven't chased it back to the plug yet.
Can these after markets (2 wire) be simply wired in, or how can i get the controls back to factory and get rid of code 81.

For what model sled?

 

[Dynomax666]

For what model sled?

This is on a Phazer 500. 2007. factory grips looked to be the same as the apex and nytro i also have. this one came with aftermarkets already on it.

 

[Mooseman]

You'd have to check if the Koso are connected in series or parallel. The stock ones are in series. If the Koso are in series, no problem. If in parallel, then you'd have to do some wiring hacks to get them to work. In either case, they wouldn't work as well as they are now because of the PWM system in the stock setup. You're better off keeping it as-is and putting some resistors to cancel the code but just leaving them off all the time. Specs say they should be between 1.53-1.87 ohm each.

 

[Dynomax666]

You'd have to check if the Koso are connected in series or parallel. The stock ones are in series. If the Koso are in series, no problem. If in parallel, then you'd have to do some wiring hacks to get them to work. In either case, they wouldn't work as well as they are now because of the PWM system in the stock setup. You're better off keeping it as-is and putting some resistors to cancel the code but just leaving them off all the time. Specs say they should be between 1.53-1.87 ohm each.

well that's good information. I'll take the meter with me and do some checking. Im sure theres a wire deeper in the plastic that i just cant find right side only has one showing. My guess is the koso are parallel as from the module come 4 wires, from there two go out to each.

on the stock wiring, I assume it does not matter which wire is which (they're both black). I may try wiring in the koso's as I have some plastic connectors to match the koso ones, but like you said parallel vs series i'd guess they'd only get half as warm?

Would it be worth going back to stock?

 

[Dynomax666]

You'd have to check if the Koso are connected in series or parallel. The stock ones are in series. If the Koso are in series, no problem. If in parallel, then you'd have to do some wiring hacks to get them to work. In either case, they wouldn't work as well as they are now because of the PWM system in the stock setup. You're better off keeping it as-is and putting some resistors to cancel the code but just leaving them off all the time. Specs say they should be between 1.53-1.87 ohm each.

Cant find much on them for specifications, i sent them an email, and might be able to figure more out with a meter. hard to tellhow its wired from this. if they were in series would this setup not send more voltage to one grip if one happened to fail?

 

[Dynomax666]

You'd have to check if the Koso are connected in series or parallel. The stock ones are in series. If the Koso are in series, no problem. If in parallel, then you'd have to do some wiring hacks to get them to work. In either case, they wouldn't work as well as they are now because of the PWM system in the stock setup. You're better off keeping it as-is and putting some resistors to cancel the code but just leaving them off all the time. Specs say they should be between 1.53-1.87 ohm each.

Well I've talked to koso. They are indeed wired in series. I've got the same connectors I'm going to fit on the yamaha harness and plug them in. I'll see how they perform. If insufficient sounds like rsi has an option for not much more than $100. Id like to get it back on factory control and get rid of the code 81.

I'll post back how I make out. I've heard the rsi outperform stock.

Thanks.

 

[HighSpeedLowDrag]

Turn the warmers off with the factory controls while it's running and then restart the engine and the code will be gone. There is no brand of element that can work with the factory wiring running through the ecu because it's programmed to change its output based on several parameters. Wire them into a reliable source of power like the taillight.

 

[Dynomax666]

Turn the warmers off with the factory controls while it's running and then restart the engine and the code will be gone. There is no brand of element that can work with the factory wiring running through the ecu because it's programmed to change its output based on several parameters. Wire them into a reliable source of power like the taillight.

Hmm, that doesnt sound great. so if i get them hooked up with some resistance, i should be able to turn them off? right now the switch is inactive.... I thought from what I read RSI would work as good as the factory yamaha ones... any input on that?

when you say good power like taillight are you talking about running a relay?

GRIP HEATERS

 

[HighSpeedLowDrag]

I have one with the grips running directly from the taillight wiring with the fuse switched from 5 up to 10 amps or so with a toggle switch to turn them off and one with them hooked up to the headlight wiring and use the dimmer switch to turn them off and stock ones don't heat at all. Old Yamahas had terrific hotgrips. There is someone that sells a control which uses the factory switches and a voltage boosting transformer to make them work well too.

 

[Yamajon1]

I have one with the grips running directly from the taillight wiring with the fuse switched from 5 up to 10 amps or so with a toggle switch to turn them off and one with them hooked up to the headlight wiring and use the dimmer switch to turn them off and stock ones don't heat at all. Old Yamahas had terrific hotgrips. There is someone that sells a control which uses the factory switches and a voltage boosting transformer to make them work well too.

RoczToyz sells some stuff to boost stock output. Go to yamaheaters.com . If you give Roc a call he can probably tell you what you need to do. Great guy to work with

 

[Mooseman]

If the switch won't turn off the stock grips' circuit, the switch may be defective or dirty. Common problem. Try pushing the switch hard and it may work again but will likely need dismantling and cleaning, which I have done before.

You could just wire them up to the original grip wiring and may work OK. If they were hotter than the original grips, they may be adequate. The problem is that they will not heat much while idling and take a while to warm up again. This video shows how it works:

At higher RPM, they will warm up but it has to be almost constant.

The problem with the Yamaheaters, you can't turn them off. The off setting is actually full steady 12v power and they do get hot. However, if you don't want any heat, you can only set it to the lowest heat setting, which will still give heat.

 

[RobX-1]

The problem with the Yamaheaters, you can't turn them off. The off setting is actually full steady 12v power and they do get hot. However, if you don't want any heat, you can only set it to the lowest heat setting, which will still give heat.

I know on his earlier models, they came with an on/off switch but I believe he stated he quit adding the switch as everyone wanted them on; just hotter: