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No. Took about 4 weeks to do a bunch of cage work on my Dad’s Kawasaki Teryx and then rebuilt his shocks so he could finish getting his rig ready for summer. Now I’m wrapping up some needed maintenance on the 660 Rhino (plow rig) and then I need to do my yearly full tear down on the RZR to prep...
Got some time to think about the oil tank again. Tentative layout for dipstick location, breather location and location of internal cylinder. Factory cylinder is about 7” sq in so I have the equivalent oval mocked up. Have inlet tube angled into curve like stock. I’m assuming they don’t want oil...
A couple thoughts. When upside down, the only way for oil to get into the breather is when it drains thru the cutout that the arrow is pointing to.
So instead of having a single cutout, I would think a bunch of small holes (1/8-3/16) spread out would help limit the amount of oil that drains...
The inside of a factory Nytro oil tank.
The breather has an internal opening on the top back, and only a very small drain hole at the front bottom that drains down to the second baffle.
The inlet tube goes into a 3” diameter cylinder. I looked inside with a mirror and it’s just a larger...
In-laws have been here so not much progress but I think I got the heat shield figured out. Extended it over to cover the exhaust a little so the CF wouldn’t be right up against it.
This what your talking about?
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-282&Category_Code=GTH
So you trade the bolt flanges on the exhaust inlet/outlet for v-bands but then have to use an external wastegate?
Not in the cards at the moment, but not out of the picture. Even when finished I will always be tinkering with this sled to continue to drop weight and improve performance.
-lighter turbo setup
-lightweight rear suspension parts
-belt drive
-custom lightweight spindles
-lightweight lower...
Template for aluminum heat shield so far. The rest will be CF. Thoughts on if the aluminum should be bigger or smaller? Less alu the better for ice buildup but I would think that small of piece should stay clear with heat from the header. If CF can take the heat I could narrow the sides up...
Been busy with some other stuff but flex joints came in so I was able to wrap up the turbo mount.
Glad I waited because the new flex joints are slightly longer. They seem like they allow for more flex as well.
New copper gaskets and ordered new bolts with 10mm heads to make installation...
As to the speculation if the 998 will fit, on my build where I’m putting a Nytro motor into a custom Viper frame, I centered the motor and am building a narrow oil tank.
Center of frame to edge of primary bolt is 15.75”. That is narrower than an Axys RMK. Oil tank side is going to be about...
After some practice bends on scraps and getting the brake adjusted right I bent up the two pieces. Total depth in the center is 2.75”, Nytro tank is a little over 5”.
The cardboard was the goal, the white piece is what I traced out after it was bent up. Some of the bends weren’t exact but it...
Very easy for me to get sidetracked, back to oil tanks now. Did a practice run to make sure I could get all the bends in. I wanted to bend it like this so I could fit the baffling easier. The outer cap I weld on will have a bend on the left and right that overlap 1” so I can get really nice lap...
I will have boost and AFR and have separate gauges for them, I’ll look at the Koso 3 in 1, that would be a cleaner setup.
Something like this? Pricey.
https://kosonorthamerica.com/product/x-2-boost-gauge-with-wideband-air-fuel-ratio-temperature-copy/
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