
zx4ever
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- 08 nytro ty4stroke customized
Both my turbos use a stock apex fuel regulator with a return to tank fuel rail fitting. Works well and it is a 1 to 1 regulator

kinger
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Use carbon sheet, snow wont stick to it light and stiff. I think they will even water jet it out to shape now if you send them a file.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The snow getting thrown out is going to be somewhere between annoying and unmanageable.I would be more concerned about the top being open than the bottom. All of the snow being thrown from the track is going to be along the top of the tunnel. The sides not nearly as much. At minimum, I would enclose the top of the tunnel entirely and if you want that open framework look, then leave the bottom open to see how that works....[edit] looking closer, I see that the top of the track is still where the lower opening is. I still vote for closing it in entirely.
I’ll do flat carbon fiber then and make them full height. I can get both sides out of a single yard.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I have some leftover CF cloth. I don’t remember what weight it is, it doesn’t feel too flimsy so I’m guessing maybe the 210g, it’s 1x1 twill. Since all the tunnel pieces are flat I’m just going to stick with doing a wet layup for now, especially since I don’t have bag setup. Epoxy resin for test piece is Epoxamite 100. I had some pieces of melamine board laying around so I used Partall paste #2 on the melamine board. I went thick on the resin as I am going to try sandwiching the cloth while it cures to see of produces a suitable finished piece. My thought is it should squish the excess resin out.
Going to let it cure for 12 hours (medium hardener) and see what’s it like. Need to see what the surface finish is like, how easy it releases, how flimsy 1 layer is and what the weight is compared to the equivalent size of .040 aluminum.
Aside from some fiberglass projects I have very little experience with this so it’s YouTube videos and learn as I go.
Going to let it cure for 12 hours (medium hardener) and see what’s it like. Need to see what the surface finish is like, how easy it releases, how flimsy 1 layer is and what the weight is compared to the equivalent size of .040 aluminum.
Aside from some fiberglass projects I have very little experience with this so it’s YouTube videos and learn as I go.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Huge fail trying to sandwich it, the excess resin didn’t squish out at all. I’ll do another test piece and squeegee it like normal and not sandwich it. Also 1 layer will not be enough, too flimsy. I’ll do 2 layers on the next test. it peeled right off the melamine board and the other side doesn’t look much better.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
2nd attempt, 2-layers of cloth, squeegeed the excess resin off and let cure.
It’s about as stiff as the 1/16 HDPE, maybe a little less but for nearly half the weight of HDPE and a little more than a 1/3 of the weight of .040 aluminum that’s not bad.
Carbon fiber 7.83 grams
HDPE 13.98 grams
.040 Alu 26.09 grams
3 layers might be better but if 2 does job no reason to do 3 and the fabric isn’t cheap. I need to go price fabric out again. Might do another test piece but with 3-layers.
It’s about as stiff as the 1/16 HDPE, maybe a little less but for nearly half the weight of HDPE and a little more than a 1/3 of the weight of .040 aluminum that’s not bad.
Carbon fiber 7.83 grams
HDPE 13.98 grams
.040 Alu 26.09 grams
3 layers might be better but if 2 does job no reason to do 3 and the fabric isn’t cheap. I need to go price fabric out again. Might do another test piece but with 3-layers.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Decided to try the HDPE thing one more time before spending money on CF cloth.
Made some pieces of angle out of .032 aluminum, .07 lbs for both. These would be needed regardless of what material I used on the sides.
Sandwiched between the top sheet and tube for a little cleaner look.
Got this side cut and fit. If I were to use it I would screw through the rectangle tube along the center and only zip tie the bottom.
Leaving heavily toward using the HDPE to save time. I think I would leave this side as-is and let it be open around the turbo. It would be easy enough down the road to cut a piece of aluminum and block the opening if needed. The other side I could panel the entire thing.
Made some pieces of angle out of .032 aluminum, .07 lbs for both. These would be needed regardless of what material I used on the sides.
Sandwiched between the top sheet and tube for a little cleaner look.
Got this side cut and fit. If I were to use it I would screw through the rectangle tube along the center and only zip tie the bottom.
Leaving heavily toward using the HDPE to save time. I think I would leave this side as-is and let it be open around the turbo. It would be easy enough down the road to cut a piece of aluminum and block the opening if needed. The other side I could panel the entire thing.
Brotherdan
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- 2011 apex xtx blue, starr suspension,gytr front shocks,camso 1.5 track cut down, snowtrackers work in process,2003 rx1er originally 121 converted to 136"monoshock 2 ck136 rear suspension with clicker vector ltx shock,muffin works tunnel extension, seat concepts(wrp) seat,apex hooked handlebars converted to all underhood wiring,8"lake effect billet aluminum riser,gytr frontshocks,yamaheater hand warmer kit,rocks ridelite,rocks power supply, rocks heated bag,, tunnel braces,blue skid plate,garmin gps, aggressive snowtrackers on apex single keel skis,rollerski ski wheel kit,108 warthog studs&blue studboy backers,pioneer wheel lowering kit, dupont slides, 4th wheel kit,yamaha saddle, tank& windshield bags, powermadd led handguards, bar mount mirror kit, apex radiator& electric fan added, apex rear cooler,autometer temp guage, apex new style large diameter drive shaft with extroverts machined for chaincase,thunder products clutching,1987 enticer 340ltr 2100miles,1984 enticer 340,1996 wolverine 350,big wheel kit,winch,racks,k&n,full skidplates
Should be enough material to keep the snow off your running boards, its not a big deal if you hate the look or durability you can easily replace it with cf or aluminum, at least you can close it in & get on to the remaining work ahead,good for you staying on it, nice!!Decided to try the HDPE thing one more time before spending money on CF cloth.
Made some pieces of angle out of .032 aluminum, .07 lbs for both. These would be needed regardless of what material I used on the sides.
View attachment 178768
Sandwiched between the top sheet and tube for a little cleaner look.
View attachment 178769
Got this side cut and fit. If I were to use it I would screw through the rectangle tube along the center and only zip tie the bottom.
View attachment 178770
Leaving heavily toward using the HDPE to save time. I think I would leave this side as-is and let it be open around the turbo. It would be easy enough down the road to cut a piece of aluminum and block the opening if needed. The other side I could panel the entire thing.
View attachment 178771
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Side panels are finished. Made the left and right sides the same. Maybe not the most attractive but it’s done and it would be easy to make full height carbon fiber panels later on if I ride and it turns out I need more coverage. At least I can move forward to other things now.
I did however at least do away with the zip tie idea and took a few hours to make tabs from .040 chromoly plate. 0.07 lbs for 10 tabs. The holes in the tubes are tapped for 4-40 threads and everything else is 4-40 screws and thin nyloc nuts, a little heavier then rivets but I don’t want any rivets on this build.
Holes drilled and tapped and tabs welded.
Each HDPE panel weighs 0.44 lbs. The hardware is pretty light with the screws being so small. For all the aluminum pieces, heat shields and HDPE panels it’s 5.02 lbs, hardware wont add much.
I need to knock out running board traction next and then I’ll have it sandblasted and I can rattle can it.
I did however at least do away with the zip tie idea and took a few hours to make tabs from .040 chromoly plate. 0.07 lbs for 10 tabs. The holes in the tubes are tapped for 4-40 threads and everything else is 4-40 screws and thin nyloc nuts, a little heavier then rivets but I don’t want any rivets on this build.
Holes drilled and tapped and tabs welded.
Each HDPE panel weighs 0.44 lbs. The hardware is pretty light with the screws being so small. For all the aluminum pieces, heat shields and HDPE panels it’s 5.02 lbs, hardware wont add much.
I need to knock out running board traction next and then I’ll have it sandblasted and I can rattle can it.

kinger
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I also like the bolt idea, I was going to use solid aircraft rivets on my tunnel to hopefully not give the snow a edge to stick to. I like the progress keep moving forward!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Solid rivets are the way to go, if I had more clearance for the motor and didn’t have to install the front panels after installing the motor I would use them.I also like the bolt idea, I was going to use solid aircraft rivets on my tunnel to hopefully not give the snow a edge to stick to. I like the progress keep moving forward!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Added another .41 lbs, decided to put HDPE over the aluminum in front of the drivers to prevent snow build up.
Undecided if I’ll do the sides with the chaincase and bearing holders.
Undecided if I’ll do the sides with the chaincase and bearing holders.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Duplicate post.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
And another 0.15 lbs. Decided to cover all the aluminum with HDPE. A little extra weight now but it will be way lighter in the snow. Eventually down the the road I could use these for templates and make carbon fiber panels to replace the aluminum and HDPE both and drop a couple pounds but it is what it is for now.
Chaincase side next.
Chaincase side next.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Added the final 0.22 lbs with the chaincase side.
Final weight for all the enclosure stuff is 5.8 lbs. that’s all the aluminum pieces, heat shields, and HDPE pieces.
Final weight for all the enclosure stuff is 5.8 lbs. that’s all the aluminum pieces, heat shields, and HDPE pieces.
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