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Much easier if you remove the headlight pod bracket, doing 2 Vec’s tomorrow as a matter of fact. For the extra couple mins to remove the bracket it’s a no brainer to me.

Can’t answer your question as to why, but yes, the cr8e plugs used in the three holer’s are cap less.

Have you fired up the sled and tried to spin the track? I’ve seen speed sensor codes not want to clear until the ECU sees a few revolutions of the track with a good sensor.

How quickly is it turning over? Vipe’s are prone to no-starts if the battery voltage is being drawn down too far during crank, Cat’s ECU is a little fussy that way.

We have a PA lift in the shop, fabbed a couple brackets with wood blocks to attach and lift from the rear positions.

Agreed, I’ve seen sleds pop tors codes with a chewed up speed sensor. The ECU “sees” the throttle being opened but no vehicle speed present so it gets unhappy about that.

Like the look of that header, may pick one up and mod it to work on my super Vector LTX. Can’t seem to find a Vec specific header anywhere these days, which sucks. Just for reference, I’m running 60Y Supertips in that sled, 6 grams in the heel and empty mid/tip. OSO primary spring, Ulmer “G”...

You shouldn’t hurt anything turning by hand, no, but you def want to double check the timing marks. If timing jumps a single tooth you shouldn’t break any hard parts but you’ll see funky running quality issues.

Check to see if the fuel sender is plugged in, the guage will flash if the connector has been left unplugged.

The timing chain can become slackened and the cams can jump time. If you’re pulling the motor anyway just verify the timing marks are still properly aligned and you should be good to go.

Just as the title says, looking for a Vec header. Excell, Hauck, etc. If anyone has something lying around they want to get rid of let me know, thanks.

Want me to just loan you a Vec tach for dial in? Don’t want team Cole looking like A holes. Lol

Still dicking with this eh? Vec tach for the win my man! Lol

Yes, I find and it is generally accepted that the DBIII spindle geometry keeps the sleds much more planted and predictable when cornering. There is also a very tangible difference (better) in the handling of the three cyl vs four cyl equipped sleds. The three banger is tilted back quite a bit...

The front spindle geometry is significantly different with the DBIII sleds. These spindles are outfitted on all EPS equipped sleds. These are the only real two differentiations between DBII and DBIII chassis from a ride and handling point of view, aside from the updated Mono II skid or tipped...

Yes, grease makes ALL the difference. Plastic a-arm bushings at the spindle bolts still wear though so oil-lites are still my fave.

Dave my have even sent 60Y weights out with his Hurricane/Hindle kit, would be helpful to know which cam arms you’ve got.

Argo?

Smart money says you likely need to check the valve lash and adjust as needed. I’m thinking you’ll like find several that are tight.

Yes I do, they hold the front end of the sled up much better than stockers in deep snow, also push far less than stockers if the trails are loose from fresh snow or chewed up from heavy traffic.