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Yes, I find and it is generally accepted that the DBIII spindle geometry keeps the sleds much more planted and predictable when cornering. There is also a very tangible difference (better) in the handling of the three cyl vs four cyl equipped sleds. The three banger is tilted back quite a bit...

The front spindle geometry is significantly different with the DBIII sleds. These spindles are outfitted on all EPS equipped sleds. These are the only real two differentiations between DBII and DBIII chassis from a ride and handling point of view, aside from the updated Mono II skid or tipped...

Yes, grease makes ALL the difference. Plastic a-arm bushings at the spindle bolts still wear though so oil-lites are still my fave.

Dave my have even sent 60Y weights out with his Hurricane/Hindle kit, would be helpful to know which cam arms you’ve got.

Argo?

Smart money says you likely need to check the valve lash and adjust as needed. I’m thinking you’ll like find several that are tight.

Yes I do, they hold the front end of the sled up much better than stockers in deep snow, also push far less than stockers if the trails are loose from fresh snow or chewed up from heavy traffic.

I’ve heard the same, also not sure how great my source is.

Jump the solenoid and see if the starter turns over. I’m betting you’ve got a bad solenoid, not a starter issue.

That was my problem with the ‘11 XTX I had with the same upgrades you have. The 1200 nm torsions weren’t quite enough in the big junk but the 1500’s were too harsh unless I was really flogging it. We weigh about the same. In the end I built an EPS Ape with a 137” Mono II skid and am much...

The three holers are such a sleeper and really underrated. Here’s a pic of 6 we had out riding together yesterday.

6-1

Weights may be grooved up and rollers may be getting hung up in the grooves. Seen this many times on the three hole Yammy’s. Pull the clutch and inspect all the cam arms for wear. At the very least pull the primary cover, spring, weights, rollers, pins etc. I find it easiest to pull the...

Did you tighten the track???? The comments on your Faceplant had me howling Allen. :rofl:

Check the big black rubber boot under the headlight pod, that’s a fave’ spot for mice to chew.

Clearly hasn’t been ridden much. The valve seats can develop some rust if the sled it’s for long periods of time, you’ll likely find it runs better and better the more you ride it and the valves start to seal 100%.

You won’t hurt anything running the CO settings a little lower than factory, no worries there. What year is the sled and how many miles on it?

Code 81 is being displayed, that indicates a fault with your hand grip circuit.

This is one of the best threads I’ve seen on TY in a long time, learning a bunch, thanks guys.

You’re right, hadn’t thought about that long enough. A code 12 normally pops when that circuit has really high resistance or is completely open. Likely a damaged wiring/connection issue.