Coondog2707
Pro
I have read on here how these are an area of concern, so on my spring maintenence/ storage ritual I have found a small amount of play in mine especially in upper contols near the bulkhead. I pulled the nosecone and I see the large bolts there. What I wanted to know for when I attack the job in the fall, is will yamaha warranty these or are the considered wear items? And if I end up doing it myself, do the bolts pass completely thru the arm and thread into the bulkhead, or are there nuts on the back of the bulkhead that will fall off when the bolt is removed? I imagine there is also the possibility that the bolts thread into the contol arm itself as well, but I guess what I need is any helpful tips or advise from anyone who has perfomed the job themselves.
stoutner
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I had the same problem. My dealer called Yamaha and they said that it is normal wear. They said if you replace the plastic bushings, they will be the same in 3 months. They said not to bother to change.
The bolts do go through all of the way and have nuts on them. So, it is a Pain in the Arse to get them out. I did change 3 of the 4 sets of bushings and bolts and nuts and they were in fact just as sloppy 3 months later.
I think what is worn the most is the bushings that are in the "A" arms themselves. I'm not sure if you can change these or not.
The bolts do go through all of the way and have nuts on them. So, it is a Pain in the Arse to get them out. I did change 3 of the 4 sets of bushings and bolts and nuts and they were in fact just as sloppy 3 months later.
I think what is worn the most is the bushings that are in the "A" arms themselves. I'm not sure if you can change these or not.
Coondog2707
Pro
Thanks for your response. From my limited research it appears that Pioneer has a bushing kit that is superior to that of the stock ones, so I will probably go that route. I am not content with the response that your dealer gave you. I find it unacceptable to just live with it. If I can find a superior replacement that will last longer, it will be worth my time to make the upgrade.
SRX Rocket
Newbie
A-arm bushings
I changed mine a couple weeks ago, It wasn't bad it's just like doing a oil change. My dealer gave me all new bushings under warranty and I said I would put them in but they where no better. So I bought the kit from PP and put that in and it worked real nice. Remember there are (4) bushings in the bulk head that is not in the kit from PP that you might want to replace, or you probably don't have to but you should at least check them out. I found that the white spacers at the end of the A-arms are most of the problem so I made ones that are a little thicker. Stock they are like .170 thick and the ones I made are around .197 and .190 on the other side. I made sure the A-arm still moves freely so when there is nothing attached the Arm will fall down. (.010 to .012 of play) When you really get in there and start to look at it close you can see how out of square the bulk head is to the arm so I think (Just my opinion) that this is why there is so much play there so it's easy to install the A-arms because the bigger the bushing the tighter it gets and no two sleds are the same so how would you make a standard bushing. The white bushings just take up the difference from what's not square between the A-arm and the bulk head.
Good luck .... Jeff
I changed mine a couple weeks ago, It wasn't bad it's just like doing a oil change. My dealer gave me all new bushings under warranty and I said I would put them in but they where no better. So I bought the kit from PP and put that in and it worked real nice. Remember there are (4) bushings in the bulk head that is not in the kit from PP that you might want to replace, or you probably don't have to but you should at least check them out. I found that the white spacers at the end of the A-arms are most of the problem so I made ones that are a little thicker. Stock they are like .170 thick and the ones I made are around .197 and .190 on the other side. I made sure the A-arm still moves freely so when there is nothing attached the Arm will fall down. (.010 to .012 of play) When you really get in there and start to look at it close you can see how out of square the bulk head is to the arm so I think (Just my opinion) that this is why there is so much play there so it's easy to install the A-arms because the bigger the bushing the tighter it gets and no two sleds are the same so how would you make a standard bushing. The white bushings just take up the difference from what's not square between the A-arm and the bulk head.
Good luck .... Jeff
Changing the front suspension bushings
I have rebushed a few sleds this year on the front suspension and the rear, and I have found, especialy for the guys with high milage, that the front bulkhead bushings were badly worn and in some cases, the bulhed bolt holes were beginning to oblong, and this is not what you want to happen. The job is not that hard and there are only 8 bushings to do. The rear suspension bushings usually were OK as long as they were greased frequently. I found that all the bushings around the ski area were fairly good and did not need changing even after 12000 km. Need any help, PM or email at dob@storm.ca .....Don
I have rebushed a few sleds this year on the front suspension and the rear, and I have found, especialy for the guys with high milage, that the front bulkhead bushings were badly worn and in some cases, the bulhed bolt holes were beginning to oblong, and this is not what you want to happen. The job is not that hard and there are only 8 bushings to do. The rear suspension bushings usually were OK as long as they were greased frequently. I found that all the bushings around the ski area were fairly good and did not need changing even after 12000 km. Need any help, PM or email at dob@storm.ca .....Don
Coondog2707
Pro
Hey guys thanks for the help. Don, I love riding up in your neck of the woods. This was the first year in the last 10 I didnt make it up but I plan on making up for that next year!!!
You're right -I dont want those holes to get all wowed out and thats why I am going to get on it now. Is Stoutner correct when he says there are nuts on the inside of the bulkhead? How do you access them? Are all 8 bushing on the bulkhead ends of the A arms ? Wouldnt there have to be some more on the spindle ends? What ones arent included in the Pioneer kit and where could I get them if they were needed?
You're right -I dont want those holes to get all wowed out and thats why I am going to get on it now. Is Stoutner correct when he says there are nuts on the inside of the bulkhead? How do you access them? Are all 8 bushing on the bulkhead ends of the A arms ? Wouldnt there have to be some more on the spindle ends? What ones arent included in the Pioneer kit and where could I get them if they were needed?
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yammie shop has any that don't come with the kit. But be ready for a big hit! I don't understand why they don't sell an entire kit? Honk
Coondog2707
Pro
ttt
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: Changing the front suspension bushings
Hi Don,
Did you install plastic bushings or go with machined Oilite bushings?
I'm toying with the idea of getting custom Oilite bushings made up to replace every single plastic bushing on my 07 RTX. The ones I made up for the top of the pivot arm held up extremely well and have a nice tight fit instead of the stock sloppy fit.
How much better do these sleds handle with the slop taken out of the front end?
donbarb said:
Hi Don,
Did you install plastic bushings or go with machined Oilite bushings?
I'm toying with the idea of getting custom Oilite bushings made up to replace every single plastic bushing on my 07 RTX. The ones I made up for the top of the pivot arm held up extremely well and have a nice tight fit instead of the stock sloppy fit.
How much better do these sleds handle with the slop taken out of the front end?
rosco
Extreme
Guy's I just had a look at my 06 Apex and there was play at the bulkhead end of the A arms. The bushings are worn like everyone has mentioned but I also noticed something else. The bolts are shouldered and when the nuts are tightened they tighten against the shoulder which is longer than the bulkhead. I can put the sled on the lift and by taking the weight off the skiis I can turn the bolts by hand. I have added a washer to the bolt just under the head and this alows me to tighten the nuts against the bulkhead now instead of aginst the bolt shoulder. This has improved the slop a bit but I still need some improved bushings. You just have to make sure that after tightening the nuts you still have good movement of the A arms and you haven't tightened too much as to pinch the A arms in the bulkhead.
I am alos interested if anyone saw any improved handleing after replaceing the bushings.
I am alos interested if anyone saw any improved handleing after replaceing the bushings.
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
I installed grease zerts on my A-arms and new bushings and after 2000 miles they are not worn any more than they were new..
These bushings need grease..
These bushings need grease..
