mustangmatt
Newbie
LOL I know right?!?!? ahhaah!It likely won't brake very well with the caliper unmounted like that LOL
The one pad is shot and the other is worn. It was not floating properly on the mount pins which causes one pad to wear faster then the other. I would suspect damage to the rotor as well. But it likely can be cleaned up.
The rotor seemed ok but I didnt look at it very well. He says he has another caliper for me I am thinking I should just change it out with fresh fluid for piece of mind...
With the pads in place squeeze them back in with a large pair of pliers. Watch and feel how they go back in. If smooth and steady you are good to go. If not rebuild or replace the caliper.
I would grab some wrenches and sockets and go thru all the nuts and bolts for peace of mind.
I kinda eyeballed a lot of the other stuff but yeah I think I will be doing that because the next trip with this will probably be way up north and dont want to be stuck somewhere with no one around for miles. I think I am just going to put a different caliper on there. He changed the track out to a different one. Anything you thing I should check over?
Ding
Lifetime Member
Depends on how thorough of a mechanic he is. With something as critical as brakes being haphazard, I would go through the whole thing carefully. I push these things too hard to want anything overlooked. I would just go through everything that might have been removed and check that it was re-installed properly and bolts / nuts re-torqued right.
Mechanic or not mistakes happen. My son was watching me align my track the other week and do some other things on my sled. He ask and I taught.
Was putting the sled back down when he pipes up " Aren't you goin' to tighten the nut for the big wheels?".
Yup That's right . I had forgotten to tighten the axle nut.
Was putting the sled back down when he pipes up " Aren't you goin' to tighten the nut for the big wheels?".
Yup That's right . I had forgotten to tighten the axle nut.
Ding
Lifetime Member
I would much rather lose my rear wheels and or axle then my brakes . . . jus sayin LOL
Yes, I have worked on many, many vehicles including rebuilding many car engines - I can't even begin to count the number of bonehead things I have done - once almost burnt up a Chevy Silverado 5.7 Vortec after changing the in-tank fuel pump because I couldn't get it restarted and was using starter fluid . . . then I saw the gas cans of fuel I had removed to drop the tank . . . duh!!!
Am I off topic yet?
Yes, I have worked on many, many vehicles including rebuilding many car engines - I can't even begin to count the number of bonehead things I have done - once almost burnt up a Chevy Silverado 5.7 Vortec after changing the in-tank fuel pump because I couldn't get it restarted and was using starter fluid . . . then I saw the gas cans of fuel I had removed to drop the tank . . . duh!!!
Am I off topic yet?
mustangmatt
Newbie
I'm going to look it over but I think I would have another problem by now. We rode for 2 hours and he had the whole chaincase apart and swapped drive axles. He normally is really good I think it just slipped he has literally 100 plus Yamahas right now...Depends on how thorough of a mechanic he is. With something as critical as brakes being haphazard, I would go through the whole thing carefully. I push these things too hard to want anything overlooked. I would just go through everything that might have been removed and check that it was re-installed properly and bolts / nuts re-torqued right.
mustangmatt
Newbie
Mechanic or not mistakes happen. My son was watching me align my track the other week and do some other things on my sled. He ask and I taught.
Was putting the sled back down when he pipes up " Aren't you goin' to tighten the nut for the big wheels?".
Yup That's right . I had forgotten to tighten the axle nut.
He is a mechanic by trade I think it was just that and forgot it on accident... I've done even dumber stuff that I don't want to admit
mustangmatt
Newbie
Lol no
Lol no it's fine I like when my threads are busy I wanna keep forums like this alive! You guys on both sites have been already super helpful!I would much rather lose my rear wheels and or axle then my brakes . . . jus sayin LOL
Yes, I have worked on many, many vehicles including rebuilding many car engines - I can't even begin to count the number of bonehead things I have done - once almost burnt up a Chevy Silverado 5.7 Vortec after changing the in-tank fuel pump because I couldn't get it restarted and was using starter fluid . . . then I saw the gas cans of fuel I had removed to drop the tank . . . duh!!!
Am I off topic yet?
actionjack
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2005
- Messages
- 2,511
- Location
- Westminster, Maryland
- Website
- www.inspectorjack.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 SideWinder LTX-LE
OMG WTF WOW
sgauthier
Lifetime Member
It must have been making a hell of a racket when it came off
kingtut
Expert
Thank god for engine braking!!
Ding
Lifetime Member
Lol. Now that is funny!!!Thank god for engine braking!!
mustangmatt
Newbie
It wasnt making any noise at all. I switched with her and rode it for awhile and wasnt making any noise at all. I asked if she was ok riding the other sled and she said she would rather ride the one with no brakes cause she was used to it LOL!It must have been making a hell of a racket when it came off
That's how she was slowing it down!Thank god for engine braking!!
thor452
Because I can
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,029
- Location
- Shawano,WI 54166
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
for piece of mind I would check the main axel nut in the chain case if no lock-tite it can back off and drill a hole in side of chain case. speaking of bonehead moves ask me how I know this.
RickMc
Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2021
- Messages
- 6
- Age
- 65
- Location
- Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Yamaha Apex & 2015 Yamaha Nitro
Questions, how do you get the brakes out to replace. Do you have to remove the caliper?With the pads in place squeeze them back in with a large pair of pliers. Watch and feel how they go back in. If smooth and steady you are good to go. If not rebuild or replace the caliper.
I would grab some wrenches and sockets and go thru all the nuts and bolts for peace of mind.
RobX-1
VIP Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 2,188
- Location
- Coldwater, OH
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 50th Apex XT-X, 08 40th Apex LTX GT, 08 40th Nytro RTX, & 03 RX-1
Not necessarily but if replacing pads with new, then you will need to compress the brake pistons and it's much easier with the caliper removed. But to answer your question, there appears to be a hex head bolt that you need to remove to be able to lift the pads out but that is just a set screw. Once you remove the set screw, behind it is the actual hex head bolt that holds the brake pads in place that can be loosened. Take note of the placement of the aluminum bracket that sits on top of the brake pads and that bolt slides over top. MrSled also posted a video on this forum of him doing a track replacement and covers the brake pad removal process as that is how I learned to check and ultimately replace mine.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 7
- Views
- 2K
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.