RC Apex
Lifetime Member
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- Jan 21, 2020
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- 35
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- 44
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- Chardon,Ohio
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- Snowmobile
- 2007 yamaha apex gt
When im riding my apex in turns it seems like i really have to lean to keep inside ski on the ground. What adjustments need made or upgrades need done?
chris189
Extreme
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- Nov 27, 2011
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- 123
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- 41
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- Hanover Ontario
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Apex GT, 1980 Enticer 340
You could try a few things.
- Ensure your front shock springs are adjusted evenly to have very little preload. Too much and the center of gravity is higher.
- If it is an Apex GT you could turn the compression clickers to two clicks out. This will provide more compression damping to achieve less body roll.
- pull up your limiter strap(at the front of rear suspension) to put more weight on the front.
I did all of this on my 07 GT and then wanted more front end bite. I went to using shaper bars. These helped a lot. Yes I had a little darting but nothing terrible. Suspension setup is sooooo important.
Cheers!
- Ensure your front shock springs are adjusted evenly to have very little preload. Too much and the center of gravity is higher.
- If it is an Apex GT you could turn the compression clickers to two clicks out. This will provide more compression damping to achieve less body roll.
- pull up your limiter strap(at the front of rear suspension) to put more weight on the front.
I did all of this on my 07 GT and then wanted more front end bite. I went to using shaper bars. These helped a lot. Yes I had a little darting but nothing terrible. Suspension setup is sooooo important.
Cheers!
RC Apex
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2020
- Messages
- 35
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Chardon,Ohio
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 yamaha apex gt
It is a gt and im new to the suspension tuning so i dont know if there is any way of simplifying thay explanation.
chris189
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2011
- Messages
- 123
- Age
- 41
- Location
- Hanover Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Apex GT, 1980 Enticer 340
Ok. I'll try. Let's say the shock has two main functions. 1) when it compresses it uses compression damping. Your gytr shocks have a clicker to adjust. (All the way in limits the amount of oil effectively stiffening the compression stroke)
2) Rebound. After hitting a bump the spring will push the shock apart again. This is where your rebound will control how fast the spring opens it back up again. Note: stiffer on the rebound will SLOW the speed at which the shock comes apart to full length. A lot of guys are confused by this.
You will have to double check but I think compression is on top and rebound is the lower clicker.
Cheers
2) Rebound. After hitting a bump the spring will push the shock apart again. This is where your rebound will control how fast the spring opens it back up again. Note: stiffer on the rebound will SLOW the speed at which the shock comes apart to full length. A lot of guys are confused by this.
You will have to double check but I think compression is on top and rebound is the lower clicker.
Cheers
FlyinA
Veteran
Do yourself a huge favor and invest some time into learning a bit about suspension tuning. It will make your Apex experience 100% better, and offer benefits to any future sled ownership experience. It's not hard to learn, it just takes a little time. There's a ton of suspension set up info on here. I had a 2007 GT and learned how to set it up by reading threads here. Basically, loosen front springs (preload) until front A-arms sit "flat" or nearly so. Adjust limiter strap (seco0nd set of holes IIRC) and set the weight transfer adjustment in the skid to minimize weight transfer. Adjust the rear spring sag (preload) as well. If you're a big guy then you may need a heavier spring in back, the stock spring is a little light if you're over 200 pounds. The owners manual covers some of this, or you can check youtube. Yes, some work and effort are involved, but it's well worth it.
One thing to remember when you are adjusting the front springs for Zero preload. Make sure the skis are off the ground first. If you truly level your A arms with the front end on the floor you will get a big surprise and the first bumps you hit. Springs will unseat and mayhem may ensue.
When adjusting the clickers on the GYTR do just a few clicks at a time and test. I run mine 4 clicks back from full on the top and in the middle on the bottom. Works well for my type of riding. You can try a stiffer sway bar up front. Most who do this upgrade run a 13mm. I personally run the 12mm.I keep the limiter strap in the stock location and set my transfer favoring the Min side of transfer. This helps keep the front end down when powering out of the corner . I would suggest the Big Boy spring for anyone over 160lbs. Barn of Parts has a great Multi rate Big Boy spring for these sleds. The comfort I need with out bottoming out. The great thing about ski lift is that you know that you ski/carbide combo is well hooked to the trail.
When adjusting the clickers on the GYTR do just a few clicks at a time and test. I run mine 4 clicks back from full on the top and in the middle on the bottom. Works well for my type of riding. You can try a stiffer sway bar up front. Most who do this upgrade run a 13mm. I personally run the 12mm.I keep the limiter strap in the stock location and set my transfer favoring the Min side of transfer. This helps keep the front end down when powering out of the corner . I would suggest the Big Boy spring for anyone over 160lbs. Barn of Parts has a great Multi rate Big Boy spring for these sleds. The comfort I need with out bottoming out. The great thing about ski lift is that you know that you ski/carbide combo is well hooked to the trail.
