07 rtx 37 miles. hyfax are done. rear.

f7 addict

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HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELP guys! this sled is great but, 37 miles on super hard pack at about 5 degrees f. what the hell? short high speed bursts and normal riding overall. rite off the bat i could smell burning hyfax. i look at the slides and saw alot of hy fax chips and the clips were sticking to the track. i went from doo to this apex and i can't believe my luck. i could'nt ride the rev because the motors ARE JUNK! it looks like this sled is going to be hard to ride and enjoy if the skid burns hyfax like this naturally. i've owned over 20 sleds and i have yet to see anything this terrible regarding hyfax wear! heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp, i'm trying to fall in love with this sled but.....
 
I don't know why yours have worn so bad but I can tell you what I have done. I have last years Apex ER with the monoshock rear. I now have 2200 miles on it with very little hyfax wear. The first thing I did when I bought my sled was put the anti wear pads on the track where there are no track clips. The hyfax will wear to a point and then not wear much at all after that. I feel like I can very easily put another 2200 miles on my original hyfax without a problem. I think that any sled with an 1 1/4" track on hardpack will have problems with hyfax wear but you can prevent some of it with the anti wear pads and maybe a wheel kit. The pads are cheap and easy to install. I think they were originally designed for the Ripsaw track and you can order them from SLP.
 
After 120 kms on my Nytro the sldies were shot (so I thought). Replaced them and after another 120 kms of snow riding they were scary thin then they stopped wearing. I think that they wear to really low then are worn in and last. AT this point the wheels are most likely taking up the slack. I ordered Fix's middle wheel kit to help the hyfax out a little more.
 
Check your track tension...it sounds as though it is too tight. The looser the better.

If your sled is brand new and you just got it from the Dealer, take it back and have them go over the suspension. It's possible there may be a problem and you want the Dealer to know about any problems you're having right of the bat.
 
With my 07 RTX I installed a fully clipped 1" track with 144 Gold Diggers and the optional 3rd pair of idler wheels (they mount between the front inners and the rear axle - offset closer to the front pair though).

I don't know how much the track is improving things, but my hafax look like new after over 200 miles of riding in poor snow conditions.

Try adding the wheels. Your dealer (or you) can pull up the part numbers from the online "microfiche". You can substitute the mounting brackets from a monoshock sled to save some money (about 1/4 the price).

As far as which wheels to go with I'd recommend either the spoked accessory wheels or the "heavy duty" 04 RX-1 wheels (and modify the mounts by taking 0.060" off the surface the side of the bearing sits against) to keep the wheels centered. A lot of people seem to be still having trouble with the stock style 06/07 idler wheels.
 
I have 1700 miles on my hyfax and will probably go another 1700. Make sure your track isn't too tight. It will wear initially but then stops.
 
f7 addict said:
HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELP guys! this sled is great but, 37 miles on super hard pack at about 5 degrees f. what the hell? short high speed bursts and normal riding overall. rite off the bat i could smell burning hyfax. i look at the slides and saw alot of hy fax chips and the clips were sticking to the track. i went from doo to this apex and i can't believe my luck. i could'nt ride the rev because the motors ARE JUNK! it looks like this sled is going to be hard to ride and enjoy if the skid burns hyfax like this naturally. i've owned over 20 sleds and i have yet to see anything this terrible regarding hyfax wear! heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp, i'm trying to fall in love with this sled but.....
Dude go to your local yammi dealer and ask for the older exciter slide,it fits right on,all you may need to do is trim to length,as they may be generic and made to fit up to 136" they are like .100 thou. thinner and even come in graphite and are cheap,places like automatic around here is where we can get them for 10 bucks a side non graphite and 18 bucks for the graphite ones,as i said they are thinner and you can now use them w/stock yammi wheels and its like they are already worn in,what i have seen with the yammi slides is premature wear early on and when it looks like you need to change them no matter what milage they have on,dont do it,they are now just right,and will not wear much at all now,it seems like they reach there limit and just stop,they gave me fits when i bought my first yammi back in 03 same thing wore out in 60 miles of hard riding,but the worst spot was up near the bend,pull up one set of holes on your strap helps this too,but go get a set of the older yammi exciter slides,either from yammi or some after market store,good luck. Pete
 
Grimm said:
Check your track tension...it sounds as though it is too tight. The looser the better.

If your sled is brand new and you just got it from the Dealer, take it back and have them go over the suspension. It's possible there may be a problem and you want the Dealer to know about any problems you're having right of the bat.

I'll 2nd Grimm's advice & for now, keep it simple. If the sliders are indeed shot after 37mi., the track tension may be too tight or the suspension amy be improperly adjusted. I average 1,500 - 2,000mi. on a set of sliders on my '06 Attak. Also true is the fact they wear quickly to a certain level then stabilize & don't wear much at all after that. The SLP pads & cutting / clipping windows should only be done after you've consulted your dealer as it may not be necessary to resort to these (semi-drastic) measures.
 
This wheel kit I installed helped alot on this skid. I had the same issues with wear on hard pack trail and the kit along with a little wear on the slides will have you down the trail with no problems. Onther thing is to drill small holes in the bottom of the runners.This will store ice and snow and also aids in cooling.
 

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MID wheel kit from FIX Powersports works perfect for the Highest wear area(near middle infront of inner wheels)this is the only kit i know of with small enough wheels to be placed here,at the HIGHEST wear point.

also,I use the THIN sliders from yammy to allow more snow into the windows...Part # SMA-8CM92-70-HP

also i DRILL my slides out....check pics below...I drill them completely thru slider(before I install)this Holds ice and also COOLS the aluminum rails which inturn cools the sliders themselves.

also,run track as loose as possible before ratcheting occurs...I have mine set to 1 inch of free hang(warm track)

also,im sure my 1 inch fully clipped predator helps too...for ripsaw add the slp wear pads.

Dan
 

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everyone keeps saying its the closed windows or track tension. closed windows are fine. i have a fully clipped ripsaw on my sled with extroverts and a loose track. i just melted the hifax to the clips for the first time ever. last year i ran closed windows and much tighter track tension with no wear at all. it happens because of conditions. i was doing lake runs when it was below zero. didnt even make it 5 miles before it happened.
 
machzed said:
also,I use the THIN sliders from yammy to allow more snow into the windows...Part # SMA-8CM92-70-HP

also,im sure my 1 inch fully clipped predator helps too...for ripsaw add the slp wear pads.

Dan

Dan, are the narrow sliders actually narrower than that of the opening in the windows on the older Ripsaw track? I say older Ripsaw as I see on my brother's 2007 Venture, the Ripsaw windows are larger than mine.
 


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