08 Vector LTX GT Sag

[BelowZero]

Trying to get my 08 Vector LTX GT monoshock set up. 3-years new to sledding, and new this year to Yamaha. Sled has 7300 miles, but appears extremely well taken care of. When I lift on the rear bumper and it will rise 3 inches before weight really comes off the track, and of course drop back when I let off. The suspension has good action from there down. I found a couple of posts from years ago asking about the same issue, but there were no answers, so I am hoping someone can offer some insight. Are there settings I can adjust to fix this? Does it sound like the shock or the spring is shot? I think everything is in stock position at present, except for the limiter strap which I just moved from stock to second to tightest to reduce pushing into corners (made a huge difference). I know this is basic stuff for many out there, but I am trying to learn all about it so I can work on it myself. Thanks for the time.

 

[theCATman]

At 7300 miles, the shock needs a rebuild regardless.

Where is the tunnel dial set? Where is the preload cam set at?

Preload should be in middle notch stock setting. Tunnel dial 3 clicks back toward hard from full soft for a baseline setting.

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[BelowZero]

Tunnel dial is in 7 clockwise from full soft. Cam is in the middle. I weigh 225 before gear.

 

[theCATman]

Tunnel dial is in 7 clockwise from full soft. Cam is in the middle. I weigh 225 before gear.

Get it rebuilt.

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[BelowZero]

Thanks, Catman, I appreciate your time.

 

[BelowZero]

While I am getting some questions answered... I have been trying to read a lot on this forum. I have read that rebuild and revalve are not the same (yeah, new to me). Is there much benefit to doing both? I don't know where a good place to send it would be, any advice there? I don't want to lose too much of the precious winter weeks. And, should I also have the front GYTR clickers done at the same time? They seem pretty active to me, but I don't have anything to compare it to.

 

[maim]

the oil breaks down over time while riding and the nitrogen charge escapes from the shocks. i can tell when my shocks need a refresh by how they ride later in the day when the oil is heated up in the shock. with that milage a refresh at minimum would not hurt. cannondale is good at doing them.

 

[Winderallday!]

Trying to get my 08 Vector LTX GT monoshock set up. 3-years new to sledding, and new this year to Yamaha. Sled has 7300 miles, but appears extremely well taken care of. When I lift on the rear bumper and it will rise 3 inches before weight really comes off the track, and of course drop back when I let off. The suspension has good action from there down. I found a couple of posts from years ago asking about the same issue, but there were no answers, so I am hoping someone can offer some insight. Are there settings I can adjust to fix this? Does it sound like the shock or the spring is shot? I think everything is in stock position at present, except for the limiter strap which I just moved from stock to second to tightest to reduce pushing into corners (made a huge difference). I know this is basic stuff for many out there, but I am trying to learn all about it so I can work on it myself. Thanks for the time.

Regarding push, if you are running dually carbides, this is a major contributor to push, get rid of them, If you've been reading TY, then you will know Snowtracker carbides are the ticket.(agressive or semi-agressive) for that generation ski. Also, back off the spring pre-load on the GYTR's so the springs rotate freely with sled lifted off the ground, this will be a big improvement. Then, I would return the limiter strap to stock setting, you sacrifice suspension travel/action by pulling it up that tight and makes steering effort excessive. 13mm swaybar is a good upgrade too.
3" of free lift is a little excessive, 1-2" is normal . A shock service, including GYTR's is in order if never been done, and get mono shock valved for your weight and riding style. Search for "sit-in" on the mono-shock, this will help get the mono-shock spring pre-load dialed in so the shock works the best, minor tweeks from there.
Cheers.

 

[DGZRT]

I have both a Shorty and a LTX. Even with a brand new Hygear shock and Dual rate springs, my LTX Sags more than my shorty. It rides like a dream So I stopped worrying about it.
You don't want to miss riding time! How does it ride? If it rides good then leave it and wait until the snow is gone. If it bottoms out on everything little bump then you can adjust it or replace the spring . The shock can be removed with out pulling the whole suspension. There are big boy springs or dual rate springs you can install. Maybe CatMan can post up his Setup he uses it's a good one . Set the whole sled up and then come back and tell us how it works. If the previous owner took good care of it he could have rebuilt the shock already!

 

[BelowZero]

Thanks so much for the info. As is, I can ride it with reasonable comfort. it bottoms out a bit, but not every time. I can say that when I tightened the limiter strap, the change was pretty significant (because of the weak rear shock?). I feel like I have control now, but it is work to have any sort of speed in the twisties. I am new to this sled (2nd sled ever); the only thing I have to compare is my 99 Arctic Cat ZL so I am on the learning curve in every way. This sled came with almost new Bergstrom Triple Carbides. The snowtrackers may be a better fit me, my style, and this sled, but they will have to wait until summer. I have a used rear shock ordered from BOP that is being rebuilt at this time to trade out once it is done and here. I don't know that the GYTR's have ever been rebuilt as I only know the most recent history of the sled. I am thinking that the options here along with the rebuilt should get me through this winter. Hopefully next summer after a winter to get familiar, I can refresh everything and put some more $$ into upgrades. I feel sure that the 08 is going to offer a great ride once I get it set up right, and get some experience riding it. Again, as a newbie, the resources on this site with so much knowledge and such a willingness to share it, are amazing. Thanks.

 

[theCATman]

I have both a Shorty and a LTX. Even with a brand new Hygear shock and Dual rate springs, my LTX Sags more than my shorty. It rides like a dream So I stopped worrying about it.
You don't want to miss riding time! How does it ride? If it rides good then leave it and wait until the snow is gone. If it bottoms out on everything little bump then you can adjust it or replace the spring . The shock can be removed with out pulling the whole suspension. There are big boy springs or dual rate springs you can install. Maybe CatMan can post up his Setup he uses it's a good one . Set the whole sled up and then come back and tell us how it works. If the previous owner took good care of it he could have rebuilt the shock already!

This is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.

Depending on everyone's given weight & trail conditions more compression may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this.

1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar

2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise (out) 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks. Do not force it past the last click. Gently turn it to the last, it'll stop. IF you do happen to go past the last click, DON'T count the initial click as "1", count it as "0" then turn it 3 clicks.

3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise(out) 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in. Same as above, don't force it past last click.

4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.

5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8". Distance is measured inside, between the two slotted collars. One being the adjuster you turn & other is the lock collar.

6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.

7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.

REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.

On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. WIDE SPACED Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. I use these, they BITE & DO NOT dart. They are the widest spaced duallys out there & are sold per pair, vs anyone else who sells each. www.johnmaster.net Sno Studs 8" double down PN# RD6808

As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.

ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.

Any other questions, or pictures if you're curious what I mean by collar to collar on the fronts & transfer rod.

Regards, Tom.

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