82SRX500
Pro
Well, up to about 850 miles on the 11' 128 standard issue Apex.
After feeling about 90 percent for turning sharpness after the Holiday's did some tuning. I have put the 08 Ohlin's on the front so here is the report.
In stock form, the sled seemed to have a fair amount of body roll. This is even with the 13mm sway bar. It felt close but would still lift the ski pretty easy and push bad in the corners. The 8.5 inch Shaper bars were dull from last years sled that I was using for the pre-season riding. No sense in blowing a $100 set of carbides on rocks. I had moved the transfer rod up a notch and a half to MIN for "more ski pressure" This helped but still had the problem. Worked the rebound setting on the front Ohlins but while this helped the ride of course got harsh. The sled was also darting terribly.
So, at about 500 miles I did the following:
Pulled the limiter strap one hole. Tightened the spring preload (compress the springs) 3 threads. Set the transfer rod back to dead center stock middle setting. I then shimmed the front skis with plastic wide shims in the back of the rubber. This cants the skis up in the front a bit.
Set the rebound at about one click stiffer than stock setting on the front ohlins. The rear dampening on the sled is set at 1/4 softer than center stock. The arrow points straight up to the gas tank. Installed brand new 8.5 inch Shaper bars from Stud Boy.
With these settings the sled on the next 300 miles of smooth groomed trails was amazingly different animal. It seemed to rail on the corners.
What next? I feel that the sled is nearly 99 percent there but still has a bit of push in a corner and I think this is being caused by the 152 studs I am running down the middle which is felt more on fresh groomed hard pack trails. Not sure if moving the transfer rod a half click or one full click would eliminate this or not. Haven't tried. Thoughts? It still will pop a ski up every now and then in the corners but more based on hitting ruts or the carbide that is new grabbing hard on something.
The Power steering is more amazing everytime I ride it. rode my friends 07 for a couple miles and could not believe how much smoother the 11 feels and how much more effort the 07 requires to turn on tight twisties. When you are riding the 11 you just don't realize how much effort you are not exerting compared to a standard 06-10 issue.
The power is climbing. On a smooth groomed trail in the UP the 11 literally will pop the front off the ground at least a foot or slightly more from a dead full throttle hit when stopped. my 06 and 08 would never do this.
The higher seating position is great. I felt like I was riding a vintage sled when I sat on the 07 based on how much lower the seat felt. Strange when you consider how similar the sleds are.
The darting issue with the skis shimmed is basically taken care of now for me. That has never been a biggy for me regardless. It is too bad that the consumer has to fix the darting issue with shimming though. Outside of the known "complaints" about starting cold, tunnel protectors and darting, the sled is amazing and I one very satisfied customer.
If you are running the standard Yamaha front shocks and want to work out some body roll, look to the limiter strap and setting the preload down maybe 3 threads on the front shocks. My weight is 160 so your settings may be different than mine.
Jon
After feeling about 90 percent for turning sharpness after the Holiday's did some tuning. I have put the 08 Ohlin's on the front so here is the report.
In stock form, the sled seemed to have a fair amount of body roll. This is even with the 13mm sway bar. It felt close but would still lift the ski pretty easy and push bad in the corners. The 8.5 inch Shaper bars were dull from last years sled that I was using for the pre-season riding. No sense in blowing a $100 set of carbides on rocks. I had moved the transfer rod up a notch and a half to MIN for "more ski pressure" This helped but still had the problem. Worked the rebound setting on the front Ohlins but while this helped the ride of course got harsh. The sled was also darting terribly.
So, at about 500 miles I did the following:
Pulled the limiter strap one hole. Tightened the spring preload (compress the springs) 3 threads. Set the transfer rod back to dead center stock middle setting. I then shimmed the front skis with plastic wide shims in the back of the rubber. This cants the skis up in the front a bit.
Set the rebound at about one click stiffer than stock setting on the front ohlins. The rear dampening on the sled is set at 1/4 softer than center stock. The arrow points straight up to the gas tank. Installed brand new 8.5 inch Shaper bars from Stud Boy.
With these settings the sled on the next 300 miles of smooth groomed trails was amazingly different animal. It seemed to rail on the corners.
What next? I feel that the sled is nearly 99 percent there but still has a bit of push in a corner and I think this is being caused by the 152 studs I am running down the middle which is felt more on fresh groomed hard pack trails. Not sure if moving the transfer rod a half click or one full click would eliminate this or not. Haven't tried. Thoughts? It still will pop a ski up every now and then in the corners but more based on hitting ruts or the carbide that is new grabbing hard on something.
The Power steering is more amazing everytime I ride it. rode my friends 07 for a couple miles and could not believe how much smoother the 11 feels and how much more effort the 07 requires to turn on tight twisties. When you are riding the 11 you just don't realize how much effort you are not exerting compared to a standard 06-10 issue.
The power is climbing. On a smooth groomed trail in the UP the 11 literally will pop the front off the ground at least a foot or slightly more from a dead full throttle hit when stopped. my 06 and 08 would never do this.
The higher seating position is great. I felt like I was riding a vintage sled when I sat on the 07 based on how much lower the seat felt. Strange when you consider how similar the sleds are.
The darting issue with the skis shimmed is basically taken care of now for me. That has never been a biggy for me regardless. It is too bad that the consumer has to fix the darting issue with shimming though. Outside of the known "complaints" about starting cold, tunnel protectors and darting, the sled is amazing and I one very satisfied customer.
If you are running the standard Yamaha front shocks and want to work out some body roll, look to the limiter strap and setting the preload down maybe 3 threads on the front shocks. My weight is 160 so your settings may be different than mine.
Jon
snowbiscuit
Expert
I run with limiter strap in middle, one hole tighter than you on SE (980 miles)...still get good transfer with better cornering
dirkdiggler
Suspended
snowbiscuit said:I run with limiter strap in middle, one hole tighter than you on SE (980 miles)...still get good transfer with better cornering
How many holes is that pulled up from stock?
sk-rx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
The stock setting is hole nuber 1. I belisve there are 5 holes. So middle would be hole number 3, 2 from stock.
snowbiscuit
Expert
What sk-rx1 said
Woodstock
Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2021
- Messages
- 4
- Age
- 57
- Location
- Oxford County, Ont
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2011 Apex
Thanks for the comments here...learning a lot!!
chris189
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2011
- Messages
- 123
- Age
- 41
- Location
- Hanover Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Apex GT, 1980 Enticer 340
This was a great thread with great info. Bottom line is that these sleds all require time spent to get the setup correct. Season is short and many don't spend this time.
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