swedishrider
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- Rs Rage, srv, a bunch of arctic cat vintage sleds.
Hi folks!
I have just picked up a 2005 RS Rage, nearly 6000 miles on it.
Sled look great with no scrapes or scratches, evrything in near mint condition except the seat with a cuple of really small tears.
It has a a new unused track with 1.75inch paddles, opposed to the ripsaw it came with stock (I already had one 136" 1.5" on a older arctic sled and it s#€k in powder and unpacked snow).
It suffers from the usual 4stoke yamaha tripple clutch rattle, not as bad as a few other rs I've seen on youtube but enough to get me worried?
This is my first 4stroke and the engine runs and feel awsome, deff. a fast sled if it hook up and thats part of the only problem it got even with the camoplast 1.75" paddle.
The only real issue I have with it this far is the rear suspention, it has very little wheight transfer to rear of skid, so impossible to lift skis and it plow the front down in the loose snow making it just spin the track, the skipressiure is a bit to much so it is heavy stearing on the trail.
Anyone that can give tips and pointers on how to adjust the rear so it'll be better in deeper snow and get more traction on wot runs?
2005 rage proaction ck suspention that is. ( no monoshock skid
/Swedishrider
I have just picked up a 2005 RS Rage, nearly 6000 miles on it.
Sled look great with no scrapes or scratches, evrything in near mint condition except the seat with a cuple of really small tears.
It has a a new unused track with 1.75inch paddles, opposed to the ripsaw it came with stock (I already had one 136" 1.5" on a older arctic sled and it s#€k in powder and unpacked snow).
It suffers from the usual 4stoke yamaha tripple clutch rattle, not as bad as a few other rs I've seen on youtube but enough to get me worried?
This is my first 4stroke and the engine runs and feel awsome, deff. a fast sled if it hook up and thats part of the only problem it got even with the camoplast 1.75" paddle.
The only real issue I have with it this far is the rear suspention, it has very little wheight transfer to rear of skid, so impossible to lift skis and it plow the front down in the loose snow making it just spin the track, the skipressiure is a bit to much so it is heavy stearing on the trail.
Anyone that can give tips and pointers on how to adjust the rear so it'll be better in deeper snow and get more traction on wot runs?
2005 rage proaction ck suspention that is. ( no monoshock skid
/Swedishrider
Last edited:
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1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
ok i would use this as a starting point.
start with the front of the sled suspended. back off the front springs until when you set it down the a arms are just above level. usually when you can rotate the springs by hand on the shocks, you are close.
next you want to set the front skid shock so that it is stiff to turn by hand and then lock it there with the rear of the sled suspended.
now for the rear. you need to set the fra (front shock bolt in slot) all the way to the top witch is soft. you then want to tighten the rear spring until the gaps on the rear transfer rods are at 60% on the top and 40% on the bottom with the sled on the ground with you or a buddy close to your weight on the seat in your common riding position.
try that for a starting point and i will help you tune it from there.
start with the front of the sled suspended. back off the front springs until when you set it down the a arms are just above level. usually when you can rotate the springs by hand on the shocks, you are close.
next you want to set the front skid shock so that it is stiff to turn by hand and then lock it there with the rear of the sled suspended.
now for the rear. you need to set the fra (front shock bolt in slot) all the way to the top witch is soft. you then want to tighten the rear spring until the gaps on the rear transfer rods are at 60% on the top and 40% on the bottom with the sled on the ground with you or a buddy close to your weight on the seat in your common riding position.
try that for a starting point and i will help you tune it from there.
swedishrider
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Thanks for the good and useful answer maim!
Been going thru the manual several times for info but its useless in the suspension settings, it does a crappy job covering all three skids they had 2005 in this chassis but no ridersettings or more useful info at all.
I have not had so much time to play aroud with the settings yet but i did loosen the limmiterstraps a whole lot! ( loosen them about 1 1/4", and the loknuts are now about 1" threads left on limiter tensioner.) is it ok to let them all out with only 1 thread left above the nuts?
The front skid shock spring is loose and has about 1/4" play if I lift the rear, should i tighten it up more?
The transfer rods seem like they are about correct, the rear shock is quite soft alredy, dont think i would like it any softer, currently in second position of the quicksetting bolt and the spring is set soft on the shock, dont know how the rebound for the shock is set on it yet and if it even makes that much diffenence?
The rear sag is a bit much even without anyone sitting on it is this normal for proaction ck?
Thinking of shimming the skis, it will mostly just folow old tracks and it seems to run on the front tips of the carbides possible thats why it plows in the deeper snow?
/swedishrider
Been going thru the manual several times for info but its useless in the suspension settings, it does a crappy job covering all three skids they had 2005 in this chassis but no ridersettings or more useful info at all.
I have not had so much time to play aroud with the settings yet but i did loosen the limmiterstraps a whole lot! ( loosen them about 1 1/4", and the loknuts are now about 1" threads left on limiter tensioner.) is it ok to let them all out with only 1 thread left above the nuts?
The front skid shock spring is loose and has about 1/4" play if I lift the rear, should i tighten it up more?
The transfer rods seem like they are about correct, the rear shock is quite soft alredy, dont think i would like it any softer, currently in second position of the quicksetting bolt and the spring is set soft on the shock, dont know how the rebound for the shock is set on it yet and if it even makes that much diffenence?
The rear sag is a bit much even without anyone sitting on it is this normal for proaction ck?
Thinking of shimming the skis, it will mostly just folow old tracks and it seems to run on the front tips of the carbides possible thats why it plows in the deeper snow?
/swedishrider
swedishrider
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- Rs Rage, srv, a bunch of arctic cat vintage sleds.
Oh sorry, thats alot of questions right there.. 
- Joined
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1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
they have sit in so it sounds like it is fine. they only come to the top when you lift the rear of the sled.
the front skid shock, i would tighten that one up as i adjusted one tighter than that and almost lost the slotted cup washer for the spring on the shock.
the straps should be ok as i ran mine tighter than that as my front end was too light.
rebound, just play with it on a rough section of trail until you are happy with how it acts after multiple passes on same section of rough trail.
the front skid shock, i would tighten that one up as i adjusted one tighter than that and almost lost the slotted cup washer for the spring on the shock.
the straps should be ok as i ran mine tighter than that as my front end was too light.
rebound, just play with it on a rough section of trail until you are happy with how it acts after multiple passes on same section of rough trail.
swedishrider
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Have been working alot lately and also been sick in the winterfluke, so havnt had time untill yesterday to test the diff. from adjusting the centershock and limmiterstraps.
The skid coupling action seems to work alot better with the longer travel of the front shock/limmiterstraps, now the skid works in looser snow and will launch on packed trail without "that" much track spin. (
well, all is relative...)
No fear of brakeing off the handlebar either in turns as it almost felt earlier, it is now possible go strait instead of skis always folow other ski-tracks.
But I can understand why they had the straps tighter, because it will now push alot more in tight corners, so its a tradeoff I guess, the 1.7" lugs will not help either.
I am pleased with the skid now and will test to loosen up the front ski shocks as was tipsed earlier.
The linkage for swaybar is adjustable too, its in the longest position now, ofc. nothing in the maual about that either.
Sled rides with less effort now but not great yet.
Awsome with lots of snow here now, 3-4foot snow in the woods, best snowmobile winter in atleast 6-7years!
The skid coupling action seems to work alot better with the longer travel of the front shock/limmiterstraps, now the skid works in looser snow and will launch on packed trail without "that" much track spin. (
well, all is relative...)No fear of brakeing off the handlebar either in turns as it almost felt earlier, it is now possible go strait instead of skis always folow other ski-tracks.
But I can understand why they had the straps tighter, because it will now push alot more in tight corners, so its a tradeoff I guess, the 1.7" lugs will not help either.
I am pleased with the skid now and will test to loosen up the front ski shocks as was tipsed earlier.
The linkage for swaybar is adjustable too, its in the longest position now, ofc. nothing in the maual about that either.
Sled rides with less effort now but not great yet.
Awsome with lots of snow here now, 3-4foot snow in the woods, best snowmobile winter in atleast 6-7years!
pdiddy
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Yikes! You don't loosen the nuts on the limiter straps, you move the bolts to another hole for looser or tighter.
STAIN
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Take the time to watch this video, worth the time
swedishrider
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pdiddy
Some sleds have different holes on the strap, some have adjustable straps. rs rage 2005 uses the latter with a adjustable bolt witch stretch the strap.
Som polaris and arctic works this way too.
Some sleds have different holes on the strap, some have adjustable straps. rs rage 2005 uses the latter with a adjustable bolt witch stretch the strap.
Som polaris and arctic works this way too.
swedishrider
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- Rs Rage, srv, a bunch of arctic cat vintage sleds.
Today I have been doing the ski shim mod, and that was a HUGE difference in floatation that made!
I also learned that this sled also has the yamaha mountian skiis already.
Also found out that I prolly need a boushing kit for the entire front arms assy.
For anyone having issues with rx/rs chassis I will write down a cuple things regarding the issues i had with:
Sled plow nose down in powder, no hockup on hard snow, darting and was hard to turn.
1* Too short front limiter straps.
2* Front skid shock had almost no preload, no wheight transfer since the rear shock did all work.
3* Unshimmed Mountain ski with deep keel running on the frontip of the carbides.
4* Boushings in the front arms are worn.
And I gave been fixing the 1+2+3 and only the last one left, alredy the sled is so much easier to ride.
STAIN, I have watched that video a cuple times, great video on tuning in the skid.
I also learned that this sled also has the yamaha mountian skiis already.
Also found out that I prolly need a boushing kit for the entire front arms assy.
For anyone having issues with rx/rs chassis I will write down a cuple things regarding the issues i had with:
Sled plow nose down in powder, no hockup on hard snow, darting and was hard to turn.
1* Too short front limiter straps.
2* Front skid shock had almost no preload, no wheight transfer since the rear shock did all work.
3* Unshimmed Mountain ski with deep keel running on the frontip of the carbides.
4* Boushings in the front arms are worn.
And I gave been fixing the 1+2+3 and only the last one left, alredy the sled is so much easier to ride.
STAIN, I have watched that video a cuple times, great video on tuning in the skid.
