2006 Attak code 12, crank but no start, no action at solenoid

[74Nitro]

Got the part in today. It looks good and measures within spec. I will make sure to gap it accordingly when installing. I plan to cut the gasket out of a sheet of gasket material since I already have some and it's looking like the OEM gasket would be at least a week of wait time. I will also use a thin coat of gasket sealer on both sides of the cases and the gasket to ensure a proper seal. When draining the oil tank, do I also have to drain whatever is in the motor, or can I simply replace whatever I drained from the tank without doing a complete oil change?

You can't measure the gap on these like most machines. The only way is to measure the distance between stator and pickup coil BEFORE unbolting the old one. Bolt the new one and compare.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

Installed the RM coil last night. It was already gapped the same as the stock one (measured using feeler gauges and socket) and I had minimal difficulty installing it. I reinstalled everything today and it fired right up. We got a lot of snow in the last few days so I am going to take it out for a ride soon. Very glad it's up and running again. Thanks for any help you guys gave. For anyone else looking to buy the RMstator part for their Apex/Attak, I can attest that it did not take any modification of the brackets or anything else to get it working, it was pretty much plug-and-play. I believe there were some changes to the stator in 2008, so I am not sure if this is true of all years of these sleds. Also, something of note is that the wires are not the same color on the RMstator part. On the RM part, the wire that is black on the stock coil is white. The other wire is still the same grey. If you get these mixed up and you don't want to remove the cover and resolder everything or pull wires through the harness again, you can use a small piece of metal to poke the connectors out of the black plug coming from the stator harness. You can then swap the terminals and correct the polarity there. Overall, not a hard job, and I was able to do it without removing the oil tank. Just unplug the top lines and the sensor connector and you should be able to move it out of the way. you will need someone to help you though, unless you have 4 hands. Thanks, everyone.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

Installed the RM coil last night. It was already gapped the same as the stock one (measured using feeler gauges and socket) and I had minimal difficulty installing it. I reinstalled everything today and it fired right up. We got a lot of snow in the last few days so I am going to take it out for a ride soon. Very glad it's up and running again. Thanks for any help you guys gave. For anyone else looking to buy the RMstator part for their Apex/Attak, I can attest that it did not take any modification of the brackets or anything else to get it working, it was pretty much plug-and-play. I believe there were some changes to the stator in 2008, so I am not sure if this is true of all years of these sleds. Also, something of note is that the wires are not the same color on the RMstator part. On the RM part, the wire that is black on the stock coil is white. The other wire is still the same grey. If you get these mixed up and you don't want to remove the cover and resolder everything or pull wires through the harness again, you can use a small piece of metal to poke the connectors out of the black plug coming from the stator harness. You can then swap the terminals and correct the polarity there. Overall, not a hard job, and I was able to do it without removing the oil tank. Just unplug the top lines and the sensor connector and you should be able to move it out of the way. you will need someone to help you though, unless you have 4 hands. Thanks, everyone.

Well, here we go again.

Took it out for a ride, about 15 degrees F, so quite a cold one. Started and ran fine for about 10 miles and then began breaking up and skipping. Couldn’t go more than about 30 mph, and it then died. Tried cranking it, cranked for a few seconds, went to turn the key again, and got nothing. Assuming that part of it is from my battery being no good. Not really sure why it died, but I suspect the coil wires may be backward like I described in my previous post. No codes on the dash or lights suggesting anything is wrong. Not really sure what is going on here. I’m going to try to get a booster back on it or jump the solenoid, and try to limp it home so I can get it out of the field.

 

[DARKMAN]

I would check stator output, sounds to me like it is not charging.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

I would check stator output, sounds to me like it is not charging.

Yeah, that's what it's acting like. I still think that battery is pretty suspect because the guy I purchased the sled from told me that it had been sitting a while and that when he tried leaving it on a trickle charger overnight, he had the same issue I was having where it wouldn't crank with the key. I visually inspected the stator yesterday while I had the cover off, and I didn't see any burnt windings or messed up insulation anywhere, but regardless, I will test it.

 

[74Nitro]

Sounds like your battery went dead.
Did you have the other stator plug unhooked?

 

[Subdivisions2112]

Sounds like your battery went dead.
Did you have the other stator plug unhooked?

It's possible that I did since I was not having this issue before working on it. I will have to check tomorrow because of the very low temperatures right now, damn near impossible to do anything out there currently. I went out there about 30 minutes ago, and I got it to turn over by jumping the solenoid with a pair of pliers. It sounds like its cranking pretty quickly, but it didn't fire or even sputter once. Still no codes on the dash. I will check connectors and stuff tomorrow and then go from there.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

It's possible that I did since I was not having this issue before working on it. I will have to check tomorrow because of the very low temperatures right now, damn near impossible to do anything out there currently. I went out there about 30 minutes ago, and I got it to turn over by jumping the solenoid with a pair of pliers. It sounds like its cranking pretty quickly, but it didn't fire or even sputter once. Still no codes on the dash. I will check connectors and stuff tomorrow and then go from there.

I decided to grow a pair and head out there tonight. I got it to crank with the key again, the battery was reading 12.3v. It showed a code 12 on the dash and would not start. Ended up using my multimeter test probe to push the pickup coil connectors out of their little black plug in the harness and flipped them. She started right up after I did that, and I got her home. To those installing an aftermarket coil in their sled: PAY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION to the polarity of the wires off of the coil. I wired my RMstator coil white to black and grey to grey, and that was BACKWARDS. Your sled will start up and run fine for a few miles with the coil backward, but you will lose spark. If this happens to you, and it leaves you stranded, take off the top hood piece, go into the nose cone where your regulator is, and find the small black connector with the grey and white wires leading into it. These are your pickup coil wires. Use a small brad nail, pin, paperclip, test probe, or anything small enough to push the wires out of the plastic connector. Take these wires, flip them around, and your sled will fire right up. I hope this helps anyone else who has had their pickup coil replaced with an aftermarket one.

 

[74Nitro]

I decided to grow a pair and head out there tonight. I got it to crank with the key again, the battery was reading 12.3v. It showed a code 12 on the dash and would not start. Ended up using my multimeter test probe to push the pickup coil connectors out of their little black plug in the harness and flipped them. She started right up after I did that, and I got her home. To those installing an aftermarket coil in their sled: PAY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION to the polarity of the wires off of the coil. I wired my RMstator coil white to black and grey to grey, and that was BACKWARDS. Your sled will start up and run fine for a few miles with the coil backward, but you will lose spark. If this happens to you, and it leaves you stranded, take off the top hood piece, go into the nose cone where your regulator is, and find the small black connector with the grey and white wires leading into it. These are your pickup coil wires. Use a small brad nail, pin, paperclip, test probe, or anything small enough to push the wires out of the plastic connector. Take these wires, flip them around, and your sled will fire right up. I hope this helps anyone else who has had their pickup coil replaced with an aftermarket one.

Glad you got it figured out, but I think it's just a 50/50 shot on the polarity when installing these.
My observations have been that machines will be difficult to start or idle erratically when wrong.
Applies to ATV's and other types of machines.