SiR_R8TD
Newbie
I have the rear suspension dialed in to my liking. The front is almost max preload on the springs and 10 clicks comp and 10 clicks reb. Steering feels heavy and front feels stiff. I weigh 240lbs and want a quick trail setup. Any suggestions where to start looking?
theCATman
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This is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.
Depending on everyone's given weight & trail condition different settings may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this. But start here...
1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar
2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks
3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.
4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.
5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"
6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.
7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.
REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.
On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.
ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.
Do this setup & you'll thank me, just as everyone else has.
Depending on everyone's given weight & trail condition different settings may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this. But start here...
1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar
2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks
3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.
4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.
5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"
6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.
7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.
REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.
On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.
ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.
Do this setup & you'll thank me, just as everyone else has.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
theCATman said:This is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.
Depending on everyone's given weight & trail condition different settings may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this. But start here...
1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar
2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks
3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.
4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.
5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"
6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.
7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.
REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.
On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.
ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.
Do this setup & you'll thank me, just as everyone else has.
Catman, I have probably asked you this before, and I appologize if I have?
Going by your info above, you don't mention anything about rider weight and ride in (Sag)
In order for me to get the correct 40-45mm sag, I have found I need to crank my cam adjustor all the way to the top (highest setting)
My spring is on the first clip.
In your instructions, you mention stock or middle setting depending on weight so are you refering to the sag in or are you saying you don't necessarily have to have that 40-45mm sag in?
I have been playing and playing lately and maybe I'll never achieve what I am after, but I think my ride could be better?
When we get some more snow, I am going to decrease my spring preload one notch at a time but I know this will affect my sag in and increase it every notch which goes against what Yamaha suggests for ride in.
All my other settings are as you say, including the fronts and my Transfer rod.
Thanks again.
theCATman
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I've never worried about the sag. To me that's another usless setting in the manual just like Yamaha's fiddle-string tight track tension setting recommendation.
I just left the Mono preload in the middle cam notch & forget about it (except for going full soft when my wife rides it)
I'm 225 or so geared up & she's 125 or so geared up.
I rode 110 miles yesterday in awefull trail conditions ( anything from chop, to 2' moguls) and only upped the tunnel dial to 8 clicks from soft(5 clicks harder from baseline) & only felt it bottom out a couple times.
I just left the Mono preload in the middle cam notch & forget about it (except for going full soft when my wife rides it)
I'm 225 or so geared up & she's 125 or so geared up.
I rode 110 miles yesterday in awefull trail conditions ( anything from chop, to 2' moguls) and only upped the tunnel dial to 8 clicks from soft(5 clicks harder from baseline) & only felt it bottom out a couple times.
Metallicat
TY 4 Stroke God
When Bruce from Pioneer revalved my rear shock, he altered the RA settings so now the RA only affects compression dampening. Rebound dampening is no longer adjustable. Before the revalve, I had to have the RA set to 3 or 4 to control the rebound (otherwise it would have a springy "yo-yo" affect on the rolling bumps). After the revalve I have it set to 1 and the rebound is smooth and perfect, and the compression dampening remains light yet it is still capable of sucking up considerable trail junk without bottoming. I also agree that the "sag" setting is meaningless. I set my sag higher than recommended for my weight and it rides just as good if not better, and has more travel available for the larger bumps. Plus if the weather is very cold you'll soon build a 50lb ice berg in the tunnel and that can cause too much sag if the spring preload is set too low.
stubb111
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PM Grizztracks..... he has a great baseline setup, I setup the wife's vector and she loves it and with a 1-2 click adjustment i can go out and pound on it no problem and i weigh about 200lbs without gear. he definetly know his stuff setting up the vector, and a very nice guy also.
dexter
TY 4 Stroke Master
Catman.... when you say collar to collar 1 7/8 on front shocks I cant picture this... I have a collar at the top of the spring and then one all the way up near the top mounting bolt. Is this wrong to start with? Help!!
YamahaHoss
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do you think that this would work for a beast of a RS Venture TF 2015?? I weight 245 LBS and even though--the suspension just does not budge when you sit on it and stiff as heckThis is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.
Depending on everyone's given weight & trail condition different settings may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this. But start here...
1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar
2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks
3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.
4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.
5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"
6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.
7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.
REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.
On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.
ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.
Do this setup & you'll thank me, just as everyone else has.
theCATman
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Totally different rear suspension. The Venture uses a version of the CK skid. Front arm coilover, rear arm torsion springs and gas shock.
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Heavy Steering on Deceleration
I experience heavy steering and sometimes back-and-forth steering when decelerating with my 2012 RS Venture (RST90). Reading the forums, manuals, and google search suggests adjusting the control rods or the limiter straps. Which one should I start with and at what intervals? The limiter straps...
try the set up i posted in there on your sled as it is for the torsion spring ventures.
