I'm getting ready to do my first oil change. I have read thru a few threads and feel ready to tackle it but have a few questions. One of the threads is Allan Ulmer's directions for his relocation kit. Anyone have thoughts on this kit? I was also planning on checking anti freeze, checking my chain again, checking chain case fluid, inspecting clutch's/belt, check fox float pressure, check track tension and alignment, and hit all grease zerks. Is there anything else I should be doing/checking?
Last question is what are your thoughts on that roll-over kit? I helped my buddy put it on his Nitro before our last trip. He's a supper aggressive rider and should have it IMO. I'm not nearly as aggressive. I'm not saying it's out of the question I will ever crash but not nearly as likely or as much as an aggressive rider. I also hate those tethers. I have them on a few of my Vmax-4's and Almost never bother hooking up. An thoughts?
As always thanks for the free advise!!!!
Last question is what are your thoughts on that roll-over kit? I helped my buddy put it on his Nitro before our last trip. He's a supper aggressive rider and should have it IMO. I'm not nearly as aggressive. I'm not saying it's out of the question I will ever crash but not nearly as likely or as much as an aggressive rider. I also hate those tethers. I have them on a few of my Vmax-4's and Almost never bother hooking up. An thoughts?
As always thanks for the free advise!!!!
MT.man
Pro
Dont forget to take the botton oil elbow off of the oil tank and clean the screen. You will see some metal shavings collected there.
TBay Sledhead
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squirt some penetrating lube on all of your steering bushing and ball tie rod ends. Also lube the rubber boots that the outer tie rods go thru, there is a lot of drag on that rubber.
Completed in 4 hours!
MT. man thanks for you advise. I'm so glad I pulled that elbow. More metal shavings then I thought. Very happy they are out of my sled
Took me 4 hours but u took my time. Cleaned all panels inside and out. Cleaned and shinned ip parts in motor I can't even see! Sure it will take me half the time next time. Thanks guys for advise. Also thanks to Allan Ullmer for the thread! Take a look at the screen that MT. Man told me about.
MT. man thanks for you advise. I'm so glad I pulled that elbow. More metal shavings then I thought. Very happy they are out of my sled
Took me 4 hours but u took my time. Cleaned all panels inside and out. Cleaned and shinned ip parts in motor I can't even see! Sure it will take me half the time next time. Thanks guys for advise. Also thanks to Allan Ullmer for the thread! Take a look at the screen that MT. Man told me about.
How much oil are you guys using on a change? I did fileter, drained block and remove bottom elbow off oil tak to clain screen and drained that line also. I'm pretty sure I was reading it was in the full area and used 3.5 Quarts. Does that sound right? Thanks.
HoggerMike
Newbie
Any problems taking off the oil filter?? ..I here the filter is glued on, doing my first oil change next week.. 
Oil Filter
No, it was tight buy have a bid set if channel locks do came right off. I thought I was going to have to stab it with a screw driver but not so bad. Made sure you remove elbow at bottom of oil tank lots of metal shavings and only after 500 miles (see pic ). Good luck. Plan on spending some time. I was in no rush and cleaned and polished but tool me four hours!
No, it was tight buy have a bid set if channel locks do came right off. I thought I was going to have to stab it with a screw driver but not so bad. Made sure you remove elbow at bottom of oil tank lots of metal shavings and only after 500 miles (see pic ). Good luck. Plan on spending some time. I was in no rush and cleaned and polished but tool me four hours!
Soldier'spapa
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If you have studs in the track, take a look at the rear cooler.
How much oil are you guys using when changing filter?
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
You mentioned above you added 3.5 quarts, sounds like too much to me?ILVmax4 said:
What does your manual say, it gives both amounts depending if you also change out your filter or not.
Also, be sure to warm up the sled after, let sit for a minute then measure without screwing the dipstick back in.
My sled and manual are up at my Lake home now but I'm pretty sure the manual said 3.8 when replacing filter? Could be wrong. It's so hard to read dip stick with clean oil. I did warm it up and it looked full but towards top of acceptable level. I news to check into it more.
Are you sure it is without the dipstick in? I thought i read to warm the motor and have dip stick in. Thanks for the help no really appreciate!
It's definitely not all the way in. Got my owners manual out. You were right sorry. Also states only need 3.2 quarts??? I needed over 3.5. May be because I drained hose at bottom of oil tank? Anyway thanks for everyone's help!
Daranello
Suspended
I did 3L as per the yamaha oil change kit and also installed new gaskets that came with kit SEE THIS POST: YAMALUBE OIL CHANGE KIT REVIEW
..also many people skip this step....add 2L start....THEN add remaining....its a dry sump issue so oil need to get in the motor, before adding more.
..also many people skip this step....add 2L start....THEN add remaining....its a dry sump issue so oil need to get in the motor, before adding more.
Irv
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ILVmax4 said:
Probably the reason?
When I drain mine I always raise the front of the sled up after most has drained out and I can usually get another 1/4 to 1/2 a ltr of dirty oil out the 3 drain areas (Vector)
I also cleaned my screen after doing the above and I also ended up getting a touch more out of the hose.
