slymax
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have no experience running one of these. I put the autometer phantom in, bought the sensor to go with it, and mounted it right behind the turbo. It seems like it runs for a few minutes to warm up the sensor then just sit on one red light(lean) If you ride it for a while it will occasionally go into the first yellow light or two, but mostly it shows lean. Took it out for a 40km breakin ride today and was mostly in the mid range, with a few short pulls(man this thing is fast) but saw red lights nearly all the time. I am guessing I should go richer. I am running 142 @ 25-3000ft, temp was -4C. the question with the gauge is due to the fact it takes about 20min of riding before you notice the LED's get even close to the stoich section. how reliable are these things?
Attachments
They're very reliable. It sounds like you might have a single wire sensor, I'd suggest getting a three wire (heated one). Regardless, you drove the sled plenty long enough to heat the thing up, and if you aren't seeing stoich on the gauge, then it would appear that you're running a bit lean.
peteracing
Expert
my experience with those is if your jetting is close it will help you a lot
but if jetting is way wrong (too rich or too lean) the gauge is useless, it
might tell you opposite of what you need to do... A wideband a/f gauge
would help more..
but if jetting is way wrong (too rich or too lean) the gauge is useless, it
might tell you opposite of what you need to do... A wideband a/f gauge
would help more..
slymax
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Nope, bought the heated 3 wire sensor from autometer as well, tied it directly to the same 3 wires on the gauge and spliced in power and ground. I think I should have left the 145's in. It's hard to keep the throttle on for more than a few seconds at a time, as corners come up really fast and the steering doesn't work when the throttle is on..LOL The other thing I have noticed is if you take just a short launch for several hundred yards and then let off, it will stall unless you keep a little throttle on.
peteracing
Expert
stalls, do you have a bov?
slymax
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
stalling
Had the same prob with stalling and fuel loading up.
solved it with installing a second BOV inline on charge tube before intercooler.
try it out, plus the turbo spools alot faster between throttle bursts
Had the same prob with stalling and fuel loading up.
solved it with installing a second BOV inline on charge tube before intercooler.
try it out, plus the turbo spools alot faster between throttle bursts
slymax
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I will talk to MCXpress, I just bought a $6000 kit, It should work without buying extra parts. Maybe they need to relocate the BOV? Is it due to excess pressure when you release the throttle? my boost gauge drops as soon as I back out of it.
bov
I hear ya mine was 6500 for the 3K kit
There are faster acting valves out there other than the flat style mits one that's on the intercooler.
see wut MCX has to say but I talked to alot of people about it and they said put a second one on.
I hear ya mine was 6500 for the 3K kit
There are faster acting valves out there other than the flat style mits one that's on the intercooler.
see wut MCX has to say but I talked to alot of people about it and they said put a second one on.
slymax
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Devin, what kind did you put on? There isn't a lot of room to put one in the line coming to the intercooler.
HYERUP
Pro
SuperDave (from Powderlites.com) makes a nice in-line unit
Slymax,I've got mine running and working I have'nt experienced the stalling,but I've noticed that it's too rich with 142,I'm down to below 140 and it's pulling great,if you're getting the lean signal before you get to main jet(full throttle) then the your lean symptom is coming from your pilot,air fuel or needle position.I've tried tuning with an air fuel meter before because I was told that is the only way to tune the machine and all it did was confuse the issues,I was all over the map trying to get it right,finally I gave up on it and started using common sense and my ears and I got way farther in much shorter period of time.
Your stalling problem sounds like your fuel pressure is too high,hook a fuel preasure gauge into the line between one of the carbs and check it's preasure.When the fuel is too high,after you do a pull,the boost can't blow off quick enough and the preasure difference in the carbs has dropped and the carbs over fuel for a split second and floods the motor,then you sit there and crank for a few seconds to clear it out.Hope this helps.Link
Your stalling problem sounds like your fuel pressure is too high,hook a fuel preasure gauge into the line between one of the carbs and check it's preasure.When the fuel is too high,after you do a pull,the boost can't blow off quick enough and the preasure difference in the carbs has dropped and the carbs over fuel for a split second and floods the motor,then you sit there and crank for a few seconds to clear it out.Hope this helps.Link
Oh ya.One other thing,the preasure you're looking for is when it's at full boost,these came to us and they were suposed to make 13 # boost,mine is making 7#,so check your fuel preasure at full boost that is on your guage now.Link
slymax
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I was thinking the same thing, with it being midrange lean, seeing as it's pretty tough to keep the throttle on right now. My plugs are pretty lean looking. As far as boost goes, I have 12-13lbs as I shortened the wastegate rod already. I should have an adjustable tee this week. I don't think I am loading up on fuel, as it fires right up after stalling. Also I read that the needles aren't adjustable so it's pilot screw or mainjet right now. could be worse....could be a 2 stroke...LOL. As far as the A/F gauge goes, they are actually very accurate, one you are close. My LED's are flicking back and forth in the lean range, just going into the bottom of the stoich range.
peteracing
Expert
SLYMAX, the needles are adjustable , 5 positions like 2 smokes
