All around suspension

[Apex2006RTX]

I just purchased a 2006 Apex RTX and was wondering what the fox floats should be set at and also what about the rear. Seems really soft because the guy before used it for groom trail riding only.

 

[vote4pedros]

I have the same sled. Ive read alot of posts on here and dialed mine in real nice for twisty trails. I put a set of stud boy duece carbides on it. Set the floats at 30 PSI, tighten the limiter 1 notch. 13mm sway bar upgrade. Now the sled handles AWESOME!! Hope this helps!!

 

[Apex2006RTX]

I was for a ride and seems to have a knocking noise like it pounds down the suspension. I got the front limiter strap now put in the middle notch and now going to try harding the shock. any help is good...

 

[SumpBuster]

Same sled here too. Pioneer shock rebuild, for my weight, fox floats around 30 to 40, rubber shims on both ends of the transfer rod (internally), stock limiter setting, stock sway bar, and curve xs skis with shaper carbides. Sled is a riot...best handling I've been on, even in crusty snow. Shock revalve sucks trail moguls at 90 mph, when you can do it...works great. Still bottoms on some big g outs, but I can live with that. Oh yeah, mono arms reinforced big time with gussets. Also added some soft rubber to the rail bump stops to soften the occasional bottom out.
This sled handles everything from slush to hardpack with ruts to crust (not bad in powder, either) with predictable handling..you will find yourself going a lot faster than you should...LOL...a lot of credit going to the curves..they work as advertised, and then some.

 

[SumpBuster]

Forgot...the rod stops knocking over 10-15 mph...as this gets too fast for the suspension to 'rock' and make the rod hit the ends. Many solutions really are to just go faster...then the suspension just compresses as a whole..no time to pivot back and forth.

 

[LJ 452]

I just purchased a 2006 Apex RTX and was wondering what the fox floats should be set at and also what about the rear. Seems really soft because the guy before used it for groom trail riding only.

Set them at 50 for good cornering, set them at 65 for good (rough) trails and playing around off trail. Assuming you have wider skis for off trailing. If the shocks are bottoming at 50 or 65 on moderate bumps they are probably blown. Get them rebuilt, at the same time get the rear Mono done, if you don't need a pillow top ride, get valved extra stiff with more rebound dampening, and you won't regret it. Also if you’re over 200 lbs the heavy spring will likely be needed. I have one if interested, Inly used one season as I then went to Hygear and they used their own springs. Either way a progressive valve stack is a must for the rear. As for the clunking, just ignore it as you'll only hear it a slow speeds, just make sure your transfer rod isn't too far out otherwise it can tear out of the threads. Use the tool provided, I typically set mine between mid and min. Anymore and it just pulls the skis to the sky.

 

[Blue Dave]

Apex2006RTX,

The "knocking" sound is as SumpBuster described. It is the transfer rod hitting on each end of its travel during low speed bumps. It drives me crazy!

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SumpBuster,

Please elaborate on your transfer rod internal rubber shims. How did you do it and did it eliminate the low speed clunk?

 

[SumpBuster]

Apex2006RTX,

The "knocking" sound is as SumpBuster described. It is the transfer rod hitting on each end of its travel during low speed bumps. It drives me crazy!

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SumpBuster,

Please elaborate on your transfer rod internal rubber shims. How did you do it and did it eliminate the low speed clunk?

Dave, next time I have it out I'll take pics. It's been two years since I put tire tube rubber shims on it. I figured they would only last a season if lucky, but the rod still only thuds, so they must still be ok. Yes, it will still make a sound and you can feel it, but it is much less clunk, and more of a dull thud. Tire tubes are pretty soft rubber. I just cut them out and contact cemented them for a little cushion effect. I did the same thing on the rail bump stops, and it cushions the bottoming too! These were just tests to see if it had any effect, but it worked good enough to leave alone. Years ago, I even made up rubber spring spacers for my 03 RX1's to block the progressive coils (instead of buying the higher rate springs). The handling difference was incredible. Sometimes it doesn't take a lot of effort to make a noticeable change.
Got the idea from NASCAR spring rubbers.

 

[Wisconsin]

Why don't I hear the clunking at all? I have the transfer set to the recommended max according to the adjuster rod's ruler. 2006 apex rtx...my dad has a 2006 ER and we have it set the same on that and don't hear a thing, either.

 

[SumpBuster]

I didn't until going about 10 mph through a tight woods in a town, that had constant chop. The rod will clunk when the suspension rod trys to couple, either when the front of the rails is compressed, or when you compress the back. Once you start hitting the bumps 'square' or fast enough, you loose the clunk.

 

[Apex2006RTX]

what is the stock location for the strap and where should i put it.

 

[Blue Dave]

On my '07 Apex GT it looks like the limiter straps are at maximum length (top holes). However with the big washers possibly covering a hole I am not 100% sure.

As far as where to set it that depends upon what you are trying to accomplish. If you want more pressure on your skis then you will want to shorten the straps.