00-NUKE
Expert
I just got my sled back from Straightline Performance in Foest Lake yesterday, and same story. Hesitation is still there. Now I have another map to add to the pile of maps I already have that don't work and they wanted $320 for it. Ahhhhhhh! 
I know that the cross country race sleds are running the same power commander set-up and I can't believe that they are racing with this hesitation? Someone has to have a fix? HELLLLLOOOOO! Is anyone out there?
I know that the cross country race sleds are running the same power commander set-up and I can't believe that they are racing with this hesitation? Someone has to have a fix? HELLLLLOOOOO! Is anyone out there?Dodge Ram
Expert
Who tuned it? Or who's maps are on it?
yam177
TY 4 Stroke Master
Re: Anyone found a fix for the Aftermarket Exhaust Hesitatio
Its from the Idle vale for the "coasting" effect you can jack up the idle and slightly tune it out but it is always kinda there.
00-NUKE said:I just got my sled back from Straightline Performance in Foest Lake yesterday, and same story. Hesitation is still there. Now I have another map to add to the pile of maps I already have that don't work and they wanted $320 for it. Ahhhhhhh!
Its from the Idle vale for the "coasting" effect you can jack up the idle and slightly tune it out but it is always kinda there.
nate007
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You'll have to learn how to make your own maps, because no two sleds are the same, and unless they're going to go put YOUR sled through the paces on the trail and tune it for you, it'll never be "perfect" ( using that loosely)and with exhaust and airbox mods, it is simply hitting a lean spot. I'm not as familiar with the PCV as I use a different system all together, but I believe it still adds fuel as a percentage, but you'll almost need a wideband with a data logger to adjust your power enrichment table to compensate (accelerator pump function)
All of my Nytros, and everyother Nytro I've known of with exhaust and airbox mods have had that stutter, which is partly the design of the sled, and is amplified with aftermarket axhaust. Nearly every Nytro will have that noise, you simply don't hear it through stock exhaust. It is due partly to the 120* firing order, and the engine braking reduction, and how the ecu works, so don't be discouraged if you cant eliminate it 100%.
As Yam177 posted, it is caused by the idle valve, but jacking up the idle could cause more issues with clutching engagement and belt wear/squeal if you do that, IMO. The idle valve is what controls the Engine Braking Reduction, and it's mainly the response time for the valve to react to throttle changes. As far as I know of, there hasn't been a "fix" for that, and is simply part of the design of the machine. It's not a fast acting solenoid, but rather a motor operated valve, and doesn't act instantaneously. It basically opens the idle valve during high manifold vaccuum situations (coasting) and reduces the effect of engine braking, letting it "coast", as posted before.
All of my Nytros, and everyother Nytro I've known of with exhaust and airbox mods have had that stutter, which is partly the design of the sled, and is amplified with aftermarket axhaust. Nearly every Nytro will have that noise, you simply don't hear it through stock exhaust. It is due partly to the 120* firing order, and the engine braking reduction, and how the ecu works, so don't be discouraged if you cant eliminate it 100%.
As Yam177 posted, it is caused by the idle valve, but jacking up the idle could cause more issues with clutching engagement and belt wear/squeal if you do that, IMO. The idle valve is what controls the Engine Braking Reduction, and it's mainly the response time for the valve to react to throttle changes. As far as I know of, there hasn't been a "fix" for that, and is simply part of the design of the machine. It's not a fast acting solenoid, but rather a motor operated valve, and doesn't act instantaneously. It basically opens the idle valve during high manifold vaccuum situations (coasting) and reduces the effect of engine braking, letting it "coast", as posted before.
Ffbsy
Extreme
exhaust
which sound are you talking about nate007, I have just installed a new exhaust and fuel controller on mine and have improved on alot of it, but I still have some issues with noises it is making and I was starting to wonder if it is just because I can hear it now and I couldn't before. Just wondering what noise the stock ones have that you are talking about but just unable to hear it.
which sound are you talking about nate007, I have just installed a new exhaust and fuel controller on mine and have improved on alot of it, but I still have some issues with noises it is making and I was starting to wonder if it is just because I can hear it now and I couldn't before. Just wondering what noise the stock ones have that you are talking about but just unable to hear it.
Re: Anyone found a fix for the Aftermarket Exhaust Hesitatio
Nuke I wish I could help. The CC sleds are also running full Hindle exhausts this season. I'll speak with Lee and see if maybe the race teams will share a map, but no promises.
Fwiw, I have no hesitations, popping, stutters at all but I use the RB3. When Dave at Hurricane developed his kit off my sled he nailed the mapping on the RB3. I know he also adds timing from 4000-7000ish and maybe that helps. On a side note, 3 seasons ago my mapping was perfect. Last season I went with different gearing and added a more aggressive helix..for some some reason I had all kinds of lean pops below 7000 rpm and when I asked a local tuner ( Iantomasi Racing ) he felt that I was loading the motor differently, which could atribute to the lean condition. I switched my gearing back to stock and went with a less aggressive helix this season and my mapping was bang on again...no hesitation or popping at all. Maybe it was a coincidence, I don't know, but you should be able to tune that hesitation out.
I have a brand new PC5 sitting in my parts bin that I wanted to use with auto tune to create a map for everyone using this kit but I think I will stick with my RB3 as it has been perfect. Hopefully one of the guys using this kit with auto tune will chime in.
00-NUKE said:I just got my sled back from Straightline Performance in Foest Lake yesterday, and same story. Hesitation is still there. Now I have another map to add to the pile of maps I already have that don't work and they wanted $320 for it. Ahhhhhhh!
Nuke I wish I could help. The CC sleds are also running full Hindle exhausts this season. I'll speak with Lee and see if maybe the race teams will share a map, but no promises.
Fwiw, I have no hesitations, popping, stutters at all but I use the RB3. When Dave at Hurricane developed his kit off my sled he nailed the mapping on the RB3. I know he also adds timing from 4000-7000ish and maybe that helps. On a side note, 3 seasons ago my mapping was perfect. Last season I went with different gearing and added a more aggressive helix..for some some reason I had all kinds of lean pops below 7000 rpm and when I asked a local tuner ( Iantomasi Racing ) he felt that I was loading the motor differently, which could atribute to the lean condition. I switched my gearing back to stock and went with a less aggressive helix this season and my mapping was bang on again...no hesitation or popping at all. Maybe it was a coincidence, I don't know, but you should be able to tune that hesitation out.
I have a brand new PC5 sitting in my parts bin that I wanted to use with auto tune to create a map for everyone using this kit but I think I will stick with my RB3 as it has been perfect. Hopefully one of the guys using this kit with auto tune will chime in.
kingedwards99
Expert
Mine used to do this and after a while and some clutching it just kinda came out of it. I used D&F and now have the two speeds. Don't know what kinda clutching you have in it but its worth a shot if you really want your exhaust on it. I have the,full excell,k&ns,and pciii mapped with ulmers map, had the stock cluthing at first and noticed the hesitation tried a diffrent map from ulmer and rode a while with it but the hesitaiton was there, so i went back to the first map and then went with the d&fs and it was suddenly gone there is just a little pop every now and then but now that i have the twospeeds there is hardly a even a pop when i let off the gas, punch and go it just grips the belt.
00-NUKE
Expert
Thanks Everyone! Just so I understand this right......
The overall consensus is that it's a combination of the Idle Valve (Used for EBRS) is not able to operate fast enough and mapping?
My mapping and accelerator pump seeting was just done professionally and was noted as "Spot On". It's a shame that there is not a fix for this. The Engine is flawless otherwise. I'm trying not to let it drive me nuts, but only time will tell.
The overall consensus is that it's a combination of the Idle Valve (Used for EBRS) is not able to operate fast enough and mapping?
My mapping and accelerator pump seeting was just done professionally and was noted as "Spot On". It's a shame that there is not a fix for this. The Engine is flawless otherwise. I'm trying not to let it drive me nuts, but only time will tell.
nate007
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2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
Theres a difference between having one run correctly, and one that has the stutter due to the EBRS. You should only notice the EBRS stutter when quickly goint to WOT from a light throttle cruise situation. Nearly every Nytro will have a slight "burble" right when you hammer on it. Its nothing more than the EBRS reacting to the rapid change in manifold pressure and the time it takes for the valve to react to close the idle system. It's a very slight lean condition, but with the right tuner and knowledge of it, you can "overcome" the issue by adding a bit more fuel to the power enrichment table (ie:excelerator pump).
Its not a major issue for the operation of engine safety, just annoying with a set of aftermarket exhaust.
Its not a major issue for the operation of engine safety, just annoying with a set of aftermarket exhaust.
redrider18
Extreme
Can the EBRS be disabled by disconnecting it or plugging the IAC hose?
nate007
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2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
I don't think it's quite that simple, as the IAC hose is also the idle air feed. Disconnecting that or plugging it off would stop the air flow to the engine at idle. It would have to be a module of some sort that would integrate with the rest of the electrical system to allow the IAC valve to function correctly for idle functions, but not the EBRS side.
Stay tuned, I'll look into what it'll take to fix.
Stay tuned, I'll look into what it'll take to fix.
kennyspec
Expert
Would be nice to get rid of the EBRS all together. Would help a lot to increase engine braking when going downhill on the mountains.
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