unchained
Expert
Thats all I had in the barn when I put it back together. Any reason why I should drain it and fill it with gear lube? I used ATF in my dirtbike chaincases for years and had less (actualy none) gear/clutch problems than most others who used the recommended viscosity engine oil in their bikes/quads.
Metallicat
TY 4 Stroke God
There was an article in SnowTech a couple of years ago about using ATF in the chaincase. They went a bit into the history of using ATF fluids and wrote about Cat and I believe even Kawi using ATF in some of their sleds in the late 1970's. I don't recall all of the details, but basically it came down to the fact that the mfg's found more chaincase failures using ATF than traditional oil. I've read about a lot of people using ATF in their modern sleds with little to no problems, so you should be safe. But, the SnowTech article stuck in my mind as sort of a "Myth Busters" episode. Yup, it does work but the best lube in the long run is probably normal chaincase oil.
Turk
Tech Advisor
Don,t do it for trail riding...just a heads up. What are you hoping to gain? Less friction at the cost of gears ; chains; driveshaft & jackshaft?
adirondac blue
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
That is all I have ever used. From racing for 15 years to a 300+ hp turbo rx1, and every trail sled. If your worried, use synthetic.
KnappAttack
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The wear is incredible with ATF. I went away from it years ago when I fried a chain in the v-max-4 at a qualifying race at BIR. The chain wouldn't even bend anymore, and it only got used in 1/4 mile asphalt drags. These chaincases run way hotter than you think, especially the reverse models. Do yourself a favor and use gear lube.
nate007
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ATF actually has friction modifiers in it, to add in holding clutch plates together in automatic transmissions. Think about it as- you wouln't put oil on the clutch in your car! The friction materials in an automatic tranny are similar to manual, so oiling them would ruin them, so ATF (gritty oil) actually has friction material in it.
Don't use gritty oil in your chaincase!!!!!
If you really want to reduce friction, try a 50w synthetic, but you aren't going to find any measureable benifit to changing oils in the chaincase.
Don't use gritty oil in your chaincase!!!!!
If you really want to reduce friction, try a 50w synthetic, but you aren't going to find any measureable benifit to changing oils in the chaincase.
Bob Miller
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I've been using Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic in my 04 Warrior. Going on 5 years now, just recently inspected the chaincase and found everything, gears ,chain, bearings looking like new.
I would say it's a good oil to use
I would say it's a good oil to use

unchained
Expert
Not trying to gain anything. "its all I had in the barn" when I re-assembled it on a late Sunday evening. Its no big deal to drain it and refill with gear lube. Just posting for opinions since it worked so well in my dirtbikes with wet clutches----As Nate stated, I know it has friction modifiers for fiber clutch plates in vehicle automatic trans that seemed to greatly reduce wear and slipage in my dirtbike gear cases. I'll drain and flush it tonight and fill er back up with gearlube.....Turk said:Don,t do it for trail riding...just a heads up. What are you hoping to gain? Less friction at the cost of gears ; chains; driveshaft & jackshaft?
thanks!
cameljockey
Pro
i use amsoil synthetic marine gear case oil, 7 bucks a quart and i get many changes out of the quart. never had a problem.
Mighty
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I use this:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tcc.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tcc.aspx
unchained
Expert
Actually I did find a half quart of Amsoil 75/90 marine lube on the shelf and used that before I headed up.....cameljockey said:i use amsoil synthetic marine gear case oil, 7 bucks a quart and i get many changes out of the quart. never had a problem.
AKrider
TY 4 Stroke God
I've used ATF in my sleds with no issues or problems. It is cheap, thin weight and works fine. Maybe the difference is I change the oil at least once a season if not sooner.
Lately I've noticed on both my MX-Z's and my Vector that the factories are installing the bottom chaincase bearing with the seal facing towards the gear and not the track like normal. My Doo dealer told me this was due to the majority of people not changing their chaincase oil when specified (or ever). I personally flip my lower bearing around so the seal faces towards the track (along with the ice, snow and water). That way it is always getting lubed with oil.
The factory bearing on my Vector was rough after only around 2500 miles. The seal was faced towards the gear in the chaincase.
Lately I've noticed on both my MX-Z's and my Vector that the factories are installing the bottom chaincase bearing with the seal facing towards the gear and not the track like normal. My Doo dealer told me this was due to the majority of people not changing their chaincase oil when specified (or ever). I personally flip my lower bearing around so the seal faces towards the track (along with the ice, snow and water). That way it is always getting lubed with oil.
The factory bearing on my Vector was rough after only around 2500 miles. The seal was faced towards the gear in the chaincase.
SISCAKIDD
Expert
had the same thing happen to me ,could not figure out how a brand new chain could get like that,i did use atf and it was on the grass really hurt my top end after only a few passes ,KnappAttack said:The wear is incredible with ATF. I went away from it years ago when I fried a chain in the v-max-4 at a qualifying race at BIR. The chain wouldn't even bend anymore, and it only got used in 1/4 mile asphalt drags. These chaincases run way hotter than you think, especially the reverse models. Do yourself a favor and use gear lube.
Snoxracer242
Expert
I just changed my chain case lube and could believe how bad it looked for only 500 miles on it! I ended up using a Polaris synthetic gear case oil, because that is what I had from running all my polaris'. Hopefully it works!
Dustin
Dustin
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