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Attack with Hacksaw Track vrs Ripsaw

J

jdm

Veteran
Joined
Mar 17, 2004
Messages
42
Location
Lake George, NY
Country
USA
Snowmobile
850 G4
LOCATION
Lake George NY
Thinking of swapping the rip for a 1" Hacksaw on the Attack. Will stud it with at least One Double backer per rib. Has anyone tried this track on the Attack ?

The Ripsaw has excessive track howl, requires longer studs , weighs more , and gives up at least a couple MPH on top end. Im hoping a swtich to the Hacksaw will benefit greatly . Riding where I am is 90% groomed trail--not powder.
 

If the 9838 is a preditor and clipped every window that would be my advise,as i already went with the hacksaw and blew that track to,and was not all that impressed with its performance in snow or lake running,i would find any preditor 1" 6 pitch fully clipped track vrs the ripsaw.. ;)!
 
The Ripsaw is a much better all around track than the Hacksaw because of the 1.25. However both have the same potential problems.

Amazed at all the claimed problems with the Ripsaw as I believe 3 if not 4 of the manufacturers are putting them on all their sleds.

Jim
 
I have a Hacksaw on my Apex. I don't have a lot of miles on it (400). About 150 of them are WFO lake runs. It is holding up well. It also has great top end.
 
I wound go with the 9838 Predator. These tracks get really good traction for only having a 1 inch lug. I have found that the Pedator tracks hold up better than the Ripsaw 1.25" or hacksaw 1". The Hacksaw and Ripsaw are the same track design.
 
dirkdiggler said:
I'm not a beliver in the 1.25 tracks at all after running a .75 that walks the Ripsaw out of the hole!!!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I ran a .54 speedtrack for a season and I saw the same results. Trackspeed is the key!
 
If you're running on ice with spikes, then shorter lugs allow you to use shorter steel. There is less leverage against a short spike than a long one, so they stand up straight and grip rather than folding over. The secondary effect of this is that when all the long spikes fold over, the track actually tightens up, which can obviously increase friction. If you're running on snow though, the ability for a track to actually grip the snow is key. Ripsaw does a very poor job of gripping snow. The 1" 9838 will perform better in deeper snow than 1.25" ripsaw. This means that there are two advantages; for those who like to add metal, they can use shorter ones that stand up stronger, and for those who like actually driving on snow, it will grip better. That means that its better overall.
 
IWhen I bought my RX-1 I put a 9830 on it and dumped the finger track. It worked in all conditions great. the last year I had my RX-1 I 136'd it and added a Ripsaw. What a mistake. The Ripsaw was terrible in deep snow.

I owned many SRX's. So when I added a ripsaw to my wifes viper and it worked no better then the track that came on my srx's I new it was a gimick.
 
tracks

what size drivers?

what about this track....9838h162 pre drilled....any opinions...is 162 enough studs?
 
dirkdiggler,

From your post it sounds like you found the 121" 9830 (1" paddle) better in deep snow than the 136" Ripsaw (1.25" paddle).

Is this correct?

I always felt the Ripsaw wasn't great in deep snow, but managed to do a fair bit of breaking trail in 3' powder and never got stuck while doing it. If the 9830 (or 9837H144) is actually better in deep snow I'm sold.
 
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