bootcamp bob
Newbie
I am replaceing the drive shaft bearings on my Attak and would like to know if there is a difference between the factory Yamaha ones and the NTN ones. Yamaha brgs are very expensive ( chaincase side is about $50 as opposed to $10 for an NTN. Ntn #s are 6205LLBC3/2A-chaincase side and ASS205NR-clutch side. Thanks Guys!!
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
bootcamp bob said:
They definitely are manufactured by a different manufacturer so they obviously are somewhat different (different metal, seal - if it has one, etc.).
Personally I've always had good luck with the Yamaha bearings in the chaincase and never had one fail. I still change them roughly every 10,000km and not wanting to risk learning that aftermarket bearings might fail, I always bite the bullet and pay for Yamaha bearings.
If you want, you could probably take a look at the original OEM bearings and order the exact same bearings from a bearing specialty shop. It would probably cut the price roughly in 1/2, but you'd probably have to order at least some of them and your sled might be down waiting for parts.
Having said that, as long as you stick with high quality bearings that are made in Canada or Japan, the aftermarket bearings are likely just fine. Stay away from cheap "made in China" bearings though.
Silver
Expert
The only bearing you have to get from Yamaha is the one on the drive shaft clutch side all the others in chain case are standard number bearings like 6205.Some are sealed some are not if all you can find is sealed then simply pop off the seal no difference .Just get a quailty bearing and you will be just fine and save lots.the 3 bearings for my 04 chain case side thru Yamaha was $96 I got them for $20 skf made in the USA bearing.I did the same thing with 98 srx and those bearing have now out lasted the oem's.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
You can get all of the bearings, including the drive shaft clutch side if you want from aftermarket sources. I have that particular bearing from NTN sitting in my bin of replacement parts for common wear items (along with 6205 bearings, 6004 bearings, Apex brake pads, exhaust donuts, suspension bushings, idler wheels, 2nd extra belt, etc.).
SKF makes quality bearings and I've used them before on previous sleds without any issues.
One of the reasons I've resisted the aftermarket bearings is I have seen several NTN bearings not last as long as Yamaha OEM bearings. These are within the skid so they see a lot of melting snow/water. I guess this fact has just put me off using, at least NTN bearings, within the chaincase.
SKF makes quality bearings and I've used them before on previous sleds without any issues.
One of the reasons I've resisted the aftermarket bearings is I have seen several NTN bearings not last as long as Yamaha OEM bearings. These are within the skid so they see a lot of melting snow/water. I guess this fact has just put me off using, at least NTN bearings, within the chaincase.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
bearing probably went cause there is no magnet in the dipstick to pick up the metal shaving, see if yamaha will pay for it
Snomad
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The NTN bearings with the blue seals are excellent. I have used them for bogeys and have never had to replace one after.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Snomad said:
I don't really know what to make of this, but I did an experiment with the two inner rear axle wheel bearing on my 07 RTX.
On one side I installed a blue seal NTN and the other side left the brand new Yamaha bearing.
After 4000 miles, the NTN bearing was rough while the original Yamaha bearing was still perfect and still is at over 5000 miles. I have another NTN installed to replace the rough one.
This could be fluke, but I've also seen similar performance with bearings in the main idler locations (but I've only done the one test above where I specifically changed the bearings at the same time - every other time I just change the bearings as needed).
Is it possible that more water just happened to get into the NTN bearing? Or is it that the low drag seal on the NTN blue, combined with the thinner "ultra low temperature" grease simply lets the grease be displaced by water that much quicker?
I've also tried generic, cheap SKF bearings (not "snowmobile bearings" using regular grease and regular seals) and these seem to last longer than the NTN blue seal bearings. Again, I haven't specifically tested identical replacements through the same # of miles, but these definitely last a long time.
Note that I'm not saying the NTN bearings fail particularly early, just that they may not last quite as long (4000 miles in my test isn't terrible).
I have in the past also tried very cheap, "made in China" bearings and these often fail in no time (even after one high speed run they can be rough).
