Straight_up_XTX
Pro
Quick question.
I just scored a new BC track out of the US for $400 and I'm pumped! (They retail at yamaha canada for around $900)
Anyway... I know i have to cut off the heat exchanger protectors... but what about the tunnel protectors? Can I leave them in or should I remove them?
I have plans to install an undertunnel exhaust someday and wonder if they would be useful to protect a muffler under there.
I just scored a new BC track out of the US for $400 and I'm pumped! (They retail at yamaha canada for around $900)
Anyway... I know i have to cut off the heat exchanger protectors... but what about the tunnel protectors? Can I leave them in or should I remove them?
I have plans to install an undertunnel exhaust someday and wonder if they would be useful to protect a muffler under there.
Zakre
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Re: Backcountry Install Question
I took out both heat exchanger and tunnel protectors, you need the room! 1.75" track is large! It is in the yamaha instructions, I can send them to you if you wish they are not great or have great pics but it gives you the idea.
Straight_up_XTX said:Quick question.
I just scored a new BC track out of the US for $400 and I'm pumped! (They retail at yamaha canada for around $900)
Anyway... I know i have to cut off the heat exchanger protectors... but what about the tunnel protectors? Can I leave them in or should I remove them?
I have plans to install an undertunnel exhaust someday and wonder if they would be useful to protect a muffler under there.
I took out both heat exchanger and tunnel protectors, you need the room! 1.75" track is large! It is in the yamaha instructions, I can send them to you if you wish they are not great or have great pics but it gives you the idea.
1049triple
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2018 High Country 9000
2001 SRX 700
I did left my tunnel protector in place even if i removed the exchanger ones.
Never been able to compress the suspension enough to have the track to hit the protectors. Will see with time.
Next time i will remove the suspension i think i will remove them. It should help to get rid of the fu***** ice buildup under the tunnel.
Never been able to compress the suspension enough to have the track to hit the protectors. Will see with time.
Next time i will remove the suspension i think i will remove them. It should help to get rid of the fu***** ice buildup under the tunnel.
snownutz
Expert
You will probably want to remove the tunnel protectors to help with the ice build up also. Your going to love this track.
Straight_up_XTX
Pro
Thanks for the advise guys! I spent the better part of last night getting those damn protectors off. The heat exchanger protectors were a breeze compared to the tunnel protectors! Getting at those front rivets to drill them out is a pain in $$$!
Anyway My next problem... I opened up the chaincase to find the bolt that holds the bottom gears in place has broken off inside the drive shaft!!!
Has this happened to anyone else? Anyone have any advise for getting the bolt (whats left of it) out of the driveshaft?
Lots of snow here and I just want to try out this new track! Lol!
Anyway My next problem... I opened up the chaincase to find the bolt that holds the bottom gears in place has broken off inside the drive shaft!!!
Has this happened to anyone else? Anyone have any advise for getting the bolt (whats left of it) out of the driveshaft?
Lots of snow here and I just want to try out this new track! Lol!
MOUNTY
Expert
Use a center punch to indent the bolt, then drill out the center for whatever size easy out you might have. Drilling out as big as you can works the best, dont break the easy out inside or else it will be a bitch to remove!
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
Sometimes u can use reverse drill bit and it will turn it out or an easy out it sould come out pretty easy
Dimebag
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I assembled the Chaincase without the bolt. Don't want it to snap again. There are several topics on here regarding this problem. You WILL love the BC track 

thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
MOUNTY said:Use a center punch to indent the bolt, then drill out the center for whatever size easy out you might have. Drilling out as big as you can works the best, dont break the easy out inside or else it will be a bitch to remove!
Correct! I'm currently having a machine shop take out the bolt and broken easyout. I went too small and it snapped off inside. Go as big as you can with the easy out!
Straight_up_XTX
Pro
Well good news I got lucky!
I went to the dealer this morning and they poped it out using a reverse drill bit and some heat. They charged me $20 so no big deal.
The mechanic hooked me up with a stainless metric yamaha bolt to use this time. It should be stronger and I should not have this problem again.
Anyway time for lunch and then it's back to the shop to finish putting this track in! I'm going to have to go for a ride tonight for sure... even though its cold as balls outside! Lol!
Thanks for all the help everyone!
I went to the dealer this morning and they poped it out using a reverse drill bit and some heat. They charged me $20 so no big deal.
The mechanic hooked me up with a stainless metric yamaha bolt to use this time. It should be stronger and I should not have this problem again.
Anyway time for lunch and then it's back to the shop to finish putting this track in! I'm going to have to go for a ride tonight for sure... even though its cold as balls outside! Lol!
Thanks for all the help everyone!
Straight_up_XTX
Pro
thetruck454I'm currently having a machine shop take out the bolt and broken easyout. I went too small and it snapped off inside.
I feel for ya! I thought I was screwed until monday for sure! Let's hope that shop can get that out so you can get back on the snow!
Hmmmm so you can put it back togeather without the bolt huh? Well I was thinking that because who knows how long I was riding with that bolt broken anyway! I'll use the stainless one i got and if this ever happens again I'll try going without too!
Zakre
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Straight_up_XTX said:Well good news I got lucky!
I went to the dealer this morning and they poped it out using a reverse drill bit and some heat. They charged me $20 so no big deal.
The mechanic hooked me up with a stainless metric yamaha bolt to use this time. It should be stronger and I should not have this problem again.
Anyway time for lunch and then it's back to the shop to finish putting this track in! I'm going to have to go for a ride tonight for sure... even though its cold as balls outside! Lol!
Thanks for all the help everyone!
There is an updated yamaha bolt that is shorter and threaded the whole way, thats the one i have to go in, waiting on the bearing holder right now, broke the only parts thats on backorder!!!





LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Running without the bolt will likely cause the gear cup to cut through the cover. It may take a while but why risk it. Plus you lose the benefit of the bearing in the cover.
The bolt shouldn't be stainless, it would be weaker. Stainless bolts are typically about a Grade 5, you can get them from specialty places in a Grade 8 but that's it. The bolt, if Yamaha is probably coated, that's what gives it the silver look. As for using stainless fasteners for the drive shaft, good luck drilling that out when it breaks. If you have to drill sharp and fast, if the bit dulls and isn't cutting it will actually harden the surface (chromium) which will require a bit that's harder.
If you keep breaking the bolt I would check the alignment of the speed bearing. Assemble the chain case side first then tighten the speedo bearing set screws. The axle shouldn't be able to move enough to break the bolt. It could be a deflection issue but if that the cast the fully threaded bolts should fail more often.
The bolt shouldn't be stainless, it would be weaker. Stainless bolts are typically about a Grade 5, you can get them from specialty places in a Grade 8 but that's it. The bolt, if Yamaha is probably coated, that's what gives it the silver look. As for using stainless fasteners for the drive shaft, good luck drilling that out when it breaks. If you have to drill sharp and fast, if the bit dulls and isn't cutting it will actually harden the surface (chromium) which will require a bit that's harder.
If you keep breaking the bolt I would check the alignment of the speed bearing. Assemble the chain case side first then tighten the speedo bearing set screws. The axle shouldn't be able to move enough to break the bolt. It could be a deflection issue but if that the cast the fully threaded bolts should fail more often.
multi sled
Extreme
you are correct in saying that a metric equivalent grade 8 bolt would be better than a stainless bolt,304 s.s.has very low carbon in it,because of the nickel content.makes a somewhat poor fastener,but very corrosion resistant.broke mine off last night changing the track out,so another chore that i didn't plan on that needs to be tackled.LJ 452 said:Running without the bolt will likely cause the gear cup to cut through the cover. It may take a while but why risk it. Plus you lose the benefit of the bearing in the cover.
The bolt shouldn't be stainless, it would be weaker. Stainless bolts are typically about a Grade 5, you can get them from specialty places in a Grade 8 but that's it. The bolt, if Yamaha is probably coated, that's what gives it the silver look. As for using stainless fasteners for the drive shaft, good luck drilling that out when it breaks. If you have to drill sharp and fast, if the bit dulls and isn't cutting it will actually harden the surface (chromium) which will require a bit that's harder.
If you keep breaking the bolt I would check the alignment of the speed bearing. Assemble the chain case side first then tighten the speedo bearing set screws. The axle shouldn't be able to move enough to break the bolt. It could be a deflection issue but if that the cast the fully threaded bolts should fail more often.
Straight_up_XTX
Pro
Well I greased the stainless bolt pretty heavily when I put it in... I also did not use and impact either... I did this with the thought that if it does break It will back out relativly easy with a reverse drill bit.
Time will tell if it holds up or not. Is there any way to tell if the bolt is broken without opening the case? I cant think of one. I guess it will have to stay as it is for now. I'll have to open it up to change the top gear before I head to montana in Feb anyway so I'll know for sure then.
Well the bolt looked stainless to me but if it is just coated then thats likely a good thing I guess.The bolt, if Yamaha is probably coated, that's what gives it the silver look.
Time will tell if it holds up or not. Is there any way to tell if the bolt is broken without opening the case? I cant think of one. I guess it will have to stay as it is for now. I'll have to open it up to change the top gear before I head to montana in Feb anyway so I'll know for sure then.
Your right this track totaly transfored my sled! This track has so much more grip! It's nice to be able to still accelerate quickly in the deep snow too! Plus the deep snow ski lift is tops now! haha[/quote]You WILL love the BC track![]()
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