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Bearing maintenance

Well I just finished re-packing mine and the seals are rubber coated metal, and popped right out with a dental pick. Rinsed them out with WD-40 and blew out with compressed air. They looked in good shape with 3500 miles, but the white grease looked pretty dry. Hopefully I didn't put too much new grease back in.
 

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Looks good to me. I don't think too much grease is an issue other than making the area all greasy as the extra works its way out. Better with too much than not enough IMHO.
 
THKSNOW said:
Looks good to me. I don't think too much grease is an issue other than making the area all greasy as the extra works its way out. Better with too much than not enough IMHO.

You should leave a little space as too much grease can pop the seal, unbenoucned to you.
 
I tap in the seal with a 1/4 drive extension and it pushes the extra grease into the bearing good. I never had the seal pop out. My old Attak had 10k on the bearings when I sold it and no rust showing of course.
This new one had 4 k now and never had the seals pop.
 
THKSNOW said:
I've always used the same wheel bearing grease that I use on my trailer.
I've never regreased my bearings, just replace them. Guess I should, it would be much easier. Do you use the red tacky axle grease? I would have to order the Amsoil grease.

Too bad the left jackshaft and driveshaft bearings aren't cone and cup style. Then you could pop the bearing out, re-pack them and put them back in.
 
CaptCaper said:
I tap in the seal with a 1/4 drive extension and it pushes the extra grease into the bearing good. I never had the seal pop out. My old Attak had 10k on the bearings when I sold it and no rust showing of course.
This new one had 4 k now and never had the seals pop.

After I packed them with new grease I spun the track some to work out the excess and wiped it out with my finger.
 
i ve used red teck grease which works really good at making its own
seal once it ozzes some out around the seal(i got over 17,000 km on
original idler bearings. only problem is at -15 C it gets stiff so not so good. Sticky stuff
The white synthetic grease i have used in the past has a
tendency to washout with water.can take real low temps.
Lithium stuff seems to be doing a good job. Doesn't wash out and doesn't
stiffen to much in cold temp.Also pretty sticky.
But i think in these situations on any sled it doesn't mater how good the grease
is , it should be checked and done often to prolong bearings.
I'm amazed at how often i grease my skid and at end of year when i pull it out
i have dry grease-less spots.
 
Ok, Time for Secondary Clutch 101 Hyjack then.

I did my bearings on my Apex GT last night. And like the photos above, my bearings looked great until I got the old grease out to realize, you are not actually looking at the ball bearings. You are looking at the casing over the balls! That's news to those of us that have never actually replaced the bearing, as we have probably never seen one.

When I put new grease in there, I did the WD40 trick and compressed air/then wiped. With the needle attachment, I started going in between what looks like the holder of each ball and filling with grease. I could feel the needle sliding into small holes as well. I did see remnants of the old grease when pumping in the new stuff. Especially on the bottom, so I started at the top hoping to pump out WD40 and old grease. Moving the shaft/track would force more out. I wiped and continued until nothing but new grease was coming out. Sort of like what we do to get water out of the hubs on our boat trailers.

My question about the secondary. Should it be able to slide in and out on that shaft just slightly? I have always heard of doing an alignment and shimming. But should it move slightly. It seems that my secondarys as far back as my SRX always had a bit of play. Is that normal? And is that why there is always a bit of grease on that splined shaft? (as shown above) I had wiped quite a bit of it off thinking my bearing had probably been blowing grease. But if the clutch was meant to slide, then having grease on those splines would be important.

Thanks guys. Semi-hijack over.
 
There is supposed to be 1.0 to 2.0 mm sheave end play and I grease the splines and the bushing the secondary rides on. I had 10k on the last one I sold so this all must be normal.
 


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