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Bearing question

Snakebit

Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2003
Messages
305
Location
Augusta, Maine
Blew the bearing out on the chaincase, which in turn blew out the case.

All things concidered at this time, my initial question is do any of the bearings, whether in the chaincase or on the shaft need to be pressed on?

I am sure I will have further questions, just want to get things going in my head.
 

Snakebit said:
Blew the bearing out on the chaincase, which in turn blew out the case.

All things concidered at this time, my initial question is do any of the bearings, whether in the chaincase or on the shaft need to be pressed on?

I am sure I will have further questions, just want to get things going in my head.

Quick question - how many miles on the sled when it blew?
 
Snakebit said:
7450

Not bad considering.....

Only 7450 miles? That's terrible. The last time I saw a blown chaincase was in 1990, on a buddies 1975 Ski-Roule. I have a sled with 20000km's on it and no problems.
The bearings are a tight fit, but not pressed on.
 
Roger said:
Snakebit said:
7450

Not bad considering.....

Only 7450 miles? That's terrible. The last time I saw a blown chaincase was in 1990, on a buddies 1975 Ski-Roule. I have a sled with 20000km's on it and no problems.
The bearings are a tight fit, but not pressed on.

I think the bearing failure led to the chaincase getting FUBARed. The ba;;s were all laying inside the case, which leads me to believe that they probably made the chain skip and.... boom.
 
Did you change the fluid ever season?What about the chain tension?(Won,t make a difference if you have faulty bearings from the start).
 
If you have a vice, some blocks of wood, and a big socket, you can knock them out. I always install the lower bearing so the seal is on the out-side of the case, instead of the inside.

I change my chaincase fluid every 500 - 1000 miles and I fill it to the STD level not the reverse side.

BTW: Better change the drive-axle bearing too.
 
4Fighter said:
If you have a vice, some blocks of wood, and a big socket, you can knock them out. I always install the lower bearing so the seal is on the out-side of the case, instead of the inside.

I change my chaincase fluid every 500 - 1000 miles and I fill it to the STD level not the reverse side.

BTW: Better change the drive-axle bearing too.


A little improv and you get to old ones off, and the new ones on.

I am with 4Fighter, change the oil regularly, stay up on chain tension. I to fill mine to the std mark. The chain cases on the Yamaha's are about as good as it gets.

Good luck
 
I am changing out my track and from the parts diagram I see 3 bearings in total that need to be changed am I right on this????? 1 Lower bearing and 2 uppers...Duh the other lower bearing was on the other parts diagram....I thought that was a little strange.. :o|
 
Do the Yamaha chaincase bearings have a lube hole in them? My old Cat chaincase bearings were drilled so that oil from the chaincase could make its way into the bearing. They seemed to last a very long time.
 
What year was your sled? Some of the 06 and 07s had issues with failure due to loosing the oil from around the cover gasket. Mine leaked twice. The fix was an 08 cover.

Brad
 
Snakebit said:
Blew the bearing out on the chaincase, which in turn blew out the case.

All things concidered at this time, my initial question is do any of the bearings, whether in the chaincase or on the shaft need to be pressed on?

I am sure I will have further questions, just want to get things going in my head.

I am assuming it was your lower bearing that let loose?????
 


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