Bender rear mount Turbo

Motorhead

TY 4 Stroke God
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2017 SW LTX-LE
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Augusta ME
Hey guys, looking for some input on a couple of questions concerning a Turbo Attack (Bender rear mount).

Thinking of buying one and never had the chance to try one out and the closest thing I have owned to an 06 Attack was an 03 RX1.

So of course I have a few questions. FYI, I have piped, ported and or cut quite a few of my Yamahas, (Phasers,Exciters,SX, SRX,Vipers, but left the RX1 almost stock.

Will I notice a difference in the Attack handling when compared to my old RX1?
How loud is the Bender rear mount turbo?
And what should I expect for gas mileage on days that I try to stay out of the throttle?
What kind of HP is expected with this set up, stock motor on stage 1 and 2 ?

Anything else you would like to add, please do... Thanks !!
 
Before I converted my Apex to an Attak, I thought it rode better then my old RX1 by far. The 136 track makes the sled push a little more now but it's still acceptable to me with Pilot skis.
How loud? It depends on if it has the original single outlet glasspack muffler or had been upgraded to an FPP dual outlet trail muffler. I can tell you the single is ear bleeding loud, and the dual outlet is quieter with a great tone but you will still have a drone in your helmet at slower cruising speeds...
As far as gas mileage, it depends purely on your thumb... If you are in the boost all the time (because that is what it's for) and depending on how much boost, it will suck more fuel to match the additional air consumption. I can get around 80-100 miles to the tank if I ride it without building boost at every corner :tg:
Regardless of the stage, the amount of boost you can build is always based on the octane & quality of the fuel, and coolant & intake air temperatures. Typically on the stock compression with cool temperatures, you can run 6 psi and get around 220HP with premium pump gas. Boost levels above that you'll need better fuel or decompress the engine.
At 10:1 I run around 13 psi boost 280+HP.
My recommendation is to check out Full Power Performance for what they offer for revisions and upgrades for the Bender stuff, compared to what the machine has already. Get the exhaust flexpipe update from them if it doesn't already have it, it will cure an exhaust leak and make it respond quicker.
 
Hey Thanks for the reply and update tips mbarryracing. Good info, greatly appreciated your sharing of boosted engine knowledge !!
 
Thinking about turbo sled support near you, Woody's Performance Center in Topsham, ME has experience with rear mount turbo's from FPP for years... They drag race one of the fastest around.
 
Did pick up my summer project, a 2006 Attack with a FPP installed Bender rear mount turbo. Sled came with a few aftermarket add ons but needs some TLC and coin.

Traveled a bit to find some snow so that I could try it out and this is what I found.

50 degrees at about 1600 ft above sea level, stage 1 performance at 5 lbs boost and 10,000 RPMs. Very deceptive smooth power ! Wow...

Couldn't wait for Stage 2 power, so whereas I had some 100 octane in the tank the switch went to stage 2. No change still 5 lbs @ 10,000 RPMs. HUh!! Tried 4 or 5 more times with the same results, so I guess a bit of research is needed to find out why not!! Damn now I shall have to wait until next year.

What component in this set up controls the boost and how does it work ?
Where would one look to gain a basic understanding of this sytem?
FPP site claims 5-7 lbs is the safe limit on this stock motor tubo set up, so should and can I increase the boost and if I add a lb. will it also increase my revs, and once I get stage 2 operational what kind of RPMs should I expect?

My thoughts are that stage 1 is set at a low RPM so that stage 2 rpms may be closer to target !! Should be easy to adjust with the heel clickers which are on the sled.
Clutch engagement is too rad, when cold 6000,once warm around 4400, is that done to help with (Turbo Lag)? Will have to take that apart for cleaning but I am wondering what would be a sweet spot for engagement and WOT. My old RX1 was sweeter with the low stock engagement when compared to the HH set up that I played with.

I know, too many thoughts and questions, can't wait till next season..

mybarryracing, YES Woodys Yamaha of Topsham Maine is the premier Boosted yamaha dealer for sure, and if all fails I will have to give in to a dealer touching my sled. Hasn't happened in a long long time. And yes I do have the dual outlet trail muffler but have not had time to check on flex pipe update. plan on stripping the sled of it's plastics, seat and heat shield to take look at this system in the near future, but would like to know how to check the stage 1 and 2 boost changing component. Must be able to operate with ignition on and sled off.
 
Motorhead,
10K isn't that far off. 10,200 is the target but it's warm and it's so close it's set for that boost level. Depending on how hard the sled was being loaded (spinning or good bite) will dictate boost level some. 5-6 psi is a good safe target
Clutch engagement should be more like 4K regardless of temp, shouldn't be 6k... Mine is around 4200.
The boost control is done by regulating the boost pressure to the wastegate actuator via a bleed-off. Stage1 low boost routes the boost from the compressor housing un-interupted to the wastegate actuator so when boost pressure reaches 5psi the pressure against the wastegate diaphram overcomes the pre-load spring and the rod moves the internal wastegate lever, bypassing the exhaust pressure around the turbine and effectively leveling or taking away the "drive"...
How they maniplulate, or "trick", the actuator to allow more boost before actuating, is bleed off the boost pressure the actuator sees from the compressor housing via a pneumatic switch (with a metered orface that bleeds to the atmosphere) from a T in the line. This naturally requires a boost pressure that is higher before the orface in order to reach the 5psi functional threshold of the wategate actuator after the orface , typically they set it up for 10-12 psi.
If you always build 5 psi boost no matter what, and you have this switch somewhere, then the bleed-off might be plugged or not T-d in anymore... The actuator is seeing 5 psi boost all the time.
Try calling Justin at FPP and leave a message, he'll call you back when he can. Let him know who you bought it from and he surely knows the history and backround of the sled then. He could tell you what is what and why... If it has a blow-off valve off the side of the intercooler, then it probably has had the FPP updates.
 
Mybarryracing, thanks for the most informative post. I am just getting home from working out of town for a bit, but after reading your post I had to check on this switch, which from the top side looks just like a normal 2 position silver toggle switch! Sure enough it has a single maybe 1/8" rubber style tubing plugged in to it, and I found it to be bent back on itself where some tie raps are holding it and also making the radius to short, thus kinking it !! That was all the time I had but will surely continue stripping the sled to expose the entire system. I will also contact FPP to inquire about this kit's installation instructions or whatever he can sell through snail mail or e-mail. He does know his stuff. I have been fortunate enough to try out many times, an SRX with a Case Ported 835 kit by Mr. Fuller. My buddy assembled the kit along with the pipes and a set of Power jetted 38's many years ago. Wow that one has been impossible to keep up with !! Thanks again for your help.
 
I don't think you have to worry about keeping up any more and that just on stage 1 can't wait to ride it again in good conditions and stage 2!! Nice sled just so smooth and it doesn't feel fast you got a great deal !!!! Im LOOKING FOR ONE NOW!!!!!!!!
 
;)! You are welcome.
Get an updated FPP clutch calibration and that will eliminate any mis-perceived "rear mount turbo lag" that is actually a result of the heaviy clutching and not due to being a rear mount.
My rear mount is almost too explosive for the trail at 12 psi, really have to have it pointed in the direction you want to be going when you squeeze the trigger WFO no matter what speed your at.
Then scrape the Bender stickers off it...
 
I shall look into the clutch update. have been communicating with Justin of FPP,gave me the control order for my Boss engine management module! Colors and numbers. Will have to look into how to program, all manual settings I was told !!

And YES I do like the idea of being stealth, it looks and sounds stock with exception to the stickers !! HA HA

Possessed, yes that FAST Air ride suspension does give a smooth ride even with that blown rear Fox shock !
 
Not that good of a deal Possessed, the sled needs alot of work, but I'm hoping once done it will afford me great fun and reliability..
 
Motorhead said:
...

And YES I do like the idea of being stealth, it looks and sounds stock with exception to the stickers !! HA HA
LOL, what I was implying was just take JUST the Bender sticker off it... nothing to do with being stealth.
 


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