Rob T
Newbie
Hey Moose Micheal just sent us a t shirt and stickers call me for address.
Bender Turbo in the mountains
- Thread starter RX-1 Moose
- Start date
ken_climb
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I hope mine works as good as your guy's does! I'm just day's away from tryin it out. I can hardly wait!
RX-1 Moose
Expert
I am positive you will love it!
If you install it yourself take your time and make sure its done right that way you will have more fun on the snow and not have to put hoses and the Air box back on in middle of nowhere! :wink:
Keep us posted on how it goes. I love hearing how the heavy RX-1 makes people look silly.
If you install it yourself take your time and make sure its done right that way you will have more fun on the snow and not have to put hoses and the Air box back on in middle of nowhere! :wink:
Keep us posted on how it goes. I love hearing how the heavy RX-1 makes people look silly.
HYERUP
Pro
Question: have any of you experienced snow plugging the filter?? (Rear Mount). I see the area under the turbo is open to the track (!) Did you leave this area under the turbo open?? I'm thinking it will plug with powder ...and should be closed off. Unfortunantely I have no fluff in my riding area, but am going to find powder eventually. Thoughts?? Thanks
RX-1 Moose
Expert
I blocked off the hole underside with some Flashing Tin I got from a lumber store, I just cut it to fit, drilled holes and rivioted the Tin on. This helps keep the snow from getting to your intake but you may have problems in very, very deep snow if any snow hits the Turbo and causes steam that will go into the motor. I think the best way to solve the problem is to put a Tin divider between your intake and your exhaust of the Turbo, this will also allow cooler intake air. Just make sure no snow can get back there and you should not have a problem. :wink:
Hyerup,
Moose is correct.
I posted on your other thread about this. Treewhacker took Moose's approach. You need to ask him, but I think it is working. I actually relocated my filter outside of the "turbo/heat shield area".
Moose is correct.
I posted on your other thread about this. Treewhacker took Moose's approach. You need to ask him, but I think it is working. I actually relocated my filter outside of the "turbo/heat shield area".
HYERUP
Pro
I only get 6-7lbs boost-(should be 8) do I lengthen the control rod or shorten it??
Also the thing really gurgles on bottom end, then really takes off-what gives-? any carburation hints? I see some people run hotter plugs....
Also the thing really gurgles on bottom end, then really takes off-what gives-? any carburation hints? I see some people run hotter plugs....
What you need is a toggle switch that bleeds air off from the wastegate. Then you have high and low boost. The one that Bender supplys is a simple NON electric one made by Clippard Minimatics. The part nimber is TV-2S.
MAKE SURE that if you run higher boost you run GOOD HIGH OCTANE fuel. A mix of race gas and premium.
If you are gurgling on the bottom then you are rich. What is your jetting now? Most specifically your needles? but also you mains and pittot jet. What elevations do you ride at? Personally I would not try diferrent plugs untill you have your base jetting figured out.
You might consider investing in an air/fuel gauge. It sure does make jetting a lot easier.
MAKE SURE that if you run higher boost you run GOOD HIGH OCTANE fuel. A mix of race gas and premium.
If you are gurgling on the bottom then you are rich. What is your jetting now? Most specifically your needles? but also you mains and pittot jet. What elevations do you ride at? Personally I would not try diferrent plugs untill you have your base jetting figured out.
You might consider investing in an air/fuel gauge. It sure does make jetting a lot easier.
kmer
Expert
Reading this thread is giving me serious 'turbo-envy'. Thanks. :roll:
HYERUP
Pro
Spray25- thanks for your reply.
I have the Bender Two Stage kit with the non electric switch. I did find, however, that my airbox was not sealed properly. I clamped it back to the carbs (withiut the flap) better, and now, the minute I start getting boost the thing falls on its face (6-700 RPM Max).
114 octane 50/50 w/premium, 135 mains, needles dropped,
tried 300, 400, 500, 600, 700 main in pitot tube....
switch both to high/low/disconnected- it won't rev up past 7000 and gurgles and pops and crackles all the way
I am very disappointed.
I have help from my Yamaha Dealer, and I have their top techs working on this thing, and we are all stumped...Guess I'll try more support from Mountain Perf. / Bender (they try, but admit tuning issues exist)
I read on these forums about so many happy turbo riders...what gives?
"#*@!"
I have the Bender Two Stage kit with the non electric switch. I did find, however, that my airbox was not sealed properly. I clamped it back to the carbs (withiut the flap) better, and now, the minute I start getting boost the thing falls on its face (6-700 RPM Max).
114 octane 50/50 w/premium, 135 mains, needles dropped,
tried 300, 400, 500, 600, 700 main in pitot tube....
switch both to high/low/disconnected- it won't rev up past 7000 and gurgles and pops and crackles all the way
I am very disappointed.
I have help from my Yamaha Dealer, and I have their top techs working on this thing, and we are all stumped...Guess I'll try more support from Mountain Perf. / Bender (they try, but admit tuning issues exist)
I read on these forums about so many happy turbo riders...what gives?
"#*@!"
RX-1 Moose
Expert
It sounds like an air problem!
Clamp all your hoses that go to your carbs! I had some problems and talked to Rob T, Spray and Bender and found out if one of the plastic Tees on the front side of the carbs that get glued in come loose the turbo won't Boost. That was my problem! I clamped all my hosees and while doing this I goofed and broke the glue lose on the plastic Tees. Bender said it is very, very important to make sure they are glued in correctly so they have a seal. That was my problem! Make sure you use hair spray to help the hoses and air box stay on.
What is your jetting? I believe Spray and I have the same Pilots and Main jets. From there you need to jet with the pitot jet on the charge tube.
Spray found out the the new oil system has to much pressure and will blow the seals on the turbo over a period of time. The fix is to put a jet in the oil pressure line in the rubber hose by the gas tank to lower the pressure, I did this after I heard about the problem.
An air problem will cause the turbo to fall on its face, I know first hand. My fix cost me $1.25 for a tube of super glue to glue the plastic Tees back in.
Spray it worked! :lol:
Clamp all your hoses that go to your carbs! I had some problems and talked to Rob T, Spray and Bender and found out if one of the plastic Tees on the front side of the carbs that get glued in come loose the turbo won't Boost. That was my problem! I clamped all my hosees and while doing this I goofed and broke the glue lose on the plastic Tees. Bender said it is very, very important to make sure they are glued in correctly so they have a seal. That was my problem! Make sure you use hair spray to help the hoses and air box stay on.
What is your jetting? I believe Spray and I have the same Pilots and Main jets. From there you need to jet with the pitot jet on the charge tube.
Spray found out the the new oil system has to much pressure and will blow the seals on the turbo over a period of time. The fix is to put a jet in the oil pressure line in the rubber hose by the gas tank to lower the pressure, I did this after I heard about the problem.
An air problem will cause the turbo to fall on its face, I know first hand. My fix cost me $1.25 for a tube of super glue to glue the plastic Tees back in.
Spray it worked! :lol:
RX-1 Moose
Expert
Spray is correct about your needle. You need to put your clip in the middle and put the white spacer and both washers on top. This is burried farther than you can with the stock settings. This will lean out your bottom end and midrange, be carful and whatch your pyro so your aren't too lean in midrange.
Tell us at what elevation do you ride. I ride from 7,200 ft to 11,000 ft and the only thing I change is my pittot Jet on the charge tube. I did mess with my needle for a while untill I found a safe setting that performs well. The leaner I went the hotter the pyro but better performance, got rid of the lag, I run at about 1,200 degrees, at most in midrange and have not changed my needle setting from the where I mentioned above.
Tell us at what elevation do you ride. I ride from 7,200 ft to 11,000 ft and the only thing I change is my pittot Jet on the charge tube. I did mess with my needle for a while untill I found a safe setting that performs well. The leaner I went the hotter the pyro but better performance, got rid of the lag, I run at about 1,200 degrees, at most in midrange and have not changed my needle setting from the where I mentioned above.
HYERUP
Pro
Thanks Moose! I appreciate all the help from y'all
I live (read test) @ 2500ft, ride at 6-8,500 ft
Needles will come back up (my A?F Guage from Bender reads lean)
What jet do you run in your pitot tube for various elevations. Did you ever have the nasty crackling and gurgling?
I still can't even get mine to rev over 7000 rpm, but will try different jets in the tube. Bender sez smaller is richer, larger- leaner, I guess I'll try anything!
Again to all: Thanks.
I live (read test) @ 2500ft, ride at 6-8,500 ft
Needles will come back up (my A?F Guage from Bender reads lean)
What jet do you run in your pitot tube for various elevations. Did you ever have the nasty crackling and gurgling?
I still can't even get mine to rev over 7000 rpm, but will try different jets in the tube. Bender sez smaller is richer, larger- leaner, I guess I'll try anything!
Again to all: Thanks.
RX-1 Moose
Expert
I run 135 main jets and 17.5 pilot jets. At 7,200 ft I run a 270 to 340 pittot jet, depending on air quality. I do most of my riding up high, I unload at 9,000ft. I use a 400 or 420 pittot jet then go to a 500 or 600 on the hills at 11,000ft to 12,000ft depending on air. The 400 is very trail safe for me at this elevation, my pyro reads about 1,100 to 1,200 degrees in midrange and goes to 1,250 to 1,300 at full boost on the trail. On the hills with the 500 jet I see real cool temps 950 to 1,150 degrees, the 600 jet I see 1,150 to 1,250 degrees but I do not run down the trail with ethier one of these jets because my temp goes up right now and scares the hell out of me.
RX-1 Moose
Expert
After I felt safe with my jetting I went to the CR8EK plug which helped with the pop and crackling. I gapped the plugs at .012.
Bender is right more air the leaner, less air the richer.
If you have your mains and pilot jets close all you will have to do is adjust the pitot jet.
When you test your sled next time plug your pitot jet off completely with tape or something and see how rich you are, if the sled doesn't run you are way to rich, if it runs better you are to lean. Check your Plugs.
I still think you have an air problem from my past experience.
Keep us posted and tell us what you find out, good or bad.
Thanks.
Bender is right more air the leaner, less air the richer.
If you have your mains and pilot jets close all you will have to do is adjust the pitot jet.
When you test your sled next time plug your pitot jet off completely with tape or something and see how rich you are, if the sled doesn't run you are way to rich, if it runs better you are to lean. Check your Plugs.
I still think you have an air problem from my past experience.
Keep us posted and tell us what you find out, good or bad.
Thanks.
