Hyerup,
Take Moose's advice on the float bowl tees and hose clamps. Put a hose clamp on EVERY pressure line you can get to.
Your problem almost sounds like your slides aren't opening. Are you absolutely positive that you have your lines ran correctlly? The hose from the pitot goes to your float bowls (aka the tees Moose is talking about). There are two lines from your air box. One goes to your fuel pressure regulator and the other one goes to the vent lines for your carb slides. If the carb slides are not hooked up correctly you can experience the problem you are describing.
Another thing to check are your fuel lines. Make sure that the supply line to the fuel pump is NOT getting kinked when you install your airbox. I had this issue once. It ran as you are describing. wouldn't pull any RPM's and ran very lean because it was running out of fuel. Check all lines not just the supply line. BTW it took me almost two days to figure that one out
As for jetting........... This is a tougher one. Every sled seems to like it's jetting just a little diferrent. My jetting was similar to Moose's, but now I have changed it a bit. I am running 132.5's with a 300 pitot and needles in #2 (spacers in stock position) This combo is working pretty good, but I still have a little fine tuning to do. I am a bit rich on the high end and at idle, but a little lean between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle. My next step? to richen the needles a little more by going to #3 and to lean the overall mixture by going to a larger pitot. I run 5000 to about 8500 feet.
A hint for you on your gauge. I burned up my first two O2 sensors because of oil and water ingestion. When both of my sensors went bad they would show extreme (all the way) lean. You might be lean, but you may also just have a bad sensor. NAPA auto parts sells the sensor. I can't remember for sure but I think the part number is OS301. IT is for an 87-90 Jeep. Whatever the small engine is. It is cheaper than another autometer sensor and it plugs right in.
Tip #874. :lol: This may be affecting your high boost issue. What kind of hose are you running from your wastegate to your boost switch? I'm guessing it is rubber hose. Take that crap off and toss it in the garbage!! Go to NAPA and buy 1/4 air brake line. It is quite hard and VERY pinch resistant. If you are using rubber hose I will bet my last dollar that you are at least partially pinching the line closed when you install the seat. It is near impossible to not pinch it, and you have no idea because you can't see it. When you pinch it that cuts down (or off) the air flow thereby not bleading off air from the wastegate.
Last thing and this belongs with jetting. Listen to your sled closely and if possible have someone else ride it so you can sit and listen to the sled. You can hear it better when you are not the rider. If you are rich it will make a gurgle or blubbering sound. If you are lean it will be more crakley and poppy. What the diferrence? Well Rich sounds deep and dull. Lean is very crisp and clean.
I hope some of this helps. Please try some of these suggestions and let us know. I promise we can help you figure this out. You are welcome to call me too. If you want my number send me a PM.
Take Moose's advice on the float bowl tees and hose clamps. Put a hose clamp on EVERY pressure line you can get to.
Your problem almost sounds like your slides aren't opening. Are you absolutely positive that you have your lines ran correctlly? The hose from the pitot goes to your float bowls (aka the tees Moose is talking about). There are two lines from your air box. One goes to your fuel pressure regulator and the other one goes to the vent lines for your carb slides. If the carb slides are not hooked up correctly you can experience the problem you are describing.
Another thing to check are your fuel lines. Make sure that the supply line to the fuel pump is NOT getting kinked when you install your airbox. I had this issue once. It ran as you are describing. wouldn't pull any RPM's and ran very lean because it was running out of fuel. Check all lines not just the supply line. BTW it took me almost two days to figure that one out
As for jetting........... This is a tougher one. Every sled seems to like it's jetting just a little diferrent. My jetting was similar to Moose's, but now I have changed it a bit. I am running 132.5's with a 300 pitot and needles in #2 (spacers in stock position) This combo is working pretty good, but I still have a little fine tuning to do. I am a bit rich on the high end and at idle, but a little lean between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle. My next step? to richen the needles a little more by going to #3 and to lean the overall mixture by going to a larger pitot. I run 5000 to about 8500 feet.
A hint for you on your gauge. I burned up my first two O2 sensors because of oil and water ingestion. When both of my sensors went bad they would show extreme (all the way) lean. You might be lean, but you may also just have a bad sensor. NAPA auto parts sells the sensor. I can't remember for sure but I think the part number is OS301. IT is for an 87-90 Jeep. Whatever the small engine is. It is cheaper than another autometer sensor and it plugs right in.
Tip #874. :lol: This may be affecting your high boost issue. What kind of hose are you running from your wastegate to your boost switch? I'm guessing it is rubber hose. Take that crap off and toss it in the garbage!! Go to NAPA and buy 1/4 air brake line. It is quite hard and VERY pinch resistant. If you are using rubber hose I will bet my last dollar that you are at least partially pinching the line closed when you install the seat. It is near impossible to not pinch it, and you have no idea because you can't see it. When you pinch it that cuts down (or off) the air flow thereby not bleading off air from the wastegate.
Last thing and this belongs with jetting. Listen to your sled closely and if possible have someone else ride it so you can sit and listen to the sled. You can hear it better when you are not the rider. If you are rich it will make a gurgle or blubbering sound. If you are lean it will be more crakley and poppy. What the diferrence? Well Rich sounds deep and dull. Lean is very crisp and clean.
I hope some of this helps. Please try some of these suggestions and let us know. I promise we can help you figure this out. You are welcome to call me too. If you want my number send me a PM.
TURBO TIME
Pro
HYERUP:
ONE OTHER THING TO LOOK AT IS YOUR WASTEGATE CONTROL ROD, MAKE SURE THAT THE ARM THAT THE ROD HOOKS TO HAS NO SLACK IN IT, IF IT DOES ADJUST THE ROD UNTIL THERE IS NO PLAY, WHEN MY DAD FIRST GOT HIS KIT IT RAN LIKE GARBAGE, FOUND THAT THE ARM WOULD MOVE BACK AND FOURTH IN THE ROD ABOUT 1\8" ALLOWING THE GATE TO FLUTTER CAUSING TREMENDOUS PROBLEMS, READJUSTED IT AND IT RAN PERFECT.
ONE OTHER THING TO LOOK AT IS YOUR WASTEGATE CONTROL ROD, MAKE SURE THAT THE ARM THAT THE ROD HOOKS TO HAS NO SLACK IN IT, IF IT DOES ADJUST THE ROD UNTIL THERE IS NO PLAY, WHEN MY DAD FIRST GOT HIS KIT IT RAN LIKE GARBAGE, FOUND THAT THE ARM WOULD MOVE BACK AND FOURTH IN THE ROD ABOUT 1\8" ALLOWING THE GATE TO FLUTTER CAUSING TREMENDOUS PROBLEMS, READJUSTED IT AND IT RAN PERFECT.
ken_climb
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Hey guys! I'm curious to know if I can adapt the bender air pitot to my rear mounted mc-xpress kit.I've got it dialled perfect for the alpine riding around hear,but where I have to unload it's a too hot(lean).I tried running my choke 1/2 way but it didn't seem to cool the exhaust gases down on my guage.Maybe a picture of it to show me maybe if I can adapt it.
For now,any ideas on how to run a little richer till I get to the high country. thanks Ken
For now,any ideas on how to run a little richer till I get to the high country. thanks Ken
Ken,
The Bender Pitot looks quite simple, but from my understanding it is VERY delicate as far as it's installation in the charge tube.
Does the MC kit some how pressurize the float bowls? If yes then I would think you would want to come up with a way to vary that pressure. That is what the pitot system does. Basically higher float bowl pressure at low altitude then lower the pressure at high elevation in order to lean the mixture back out. All you would need is some sort of vari flow type device.
The Bender Pitot looks quite simple, but from my understanding it is VERY delicate as far as it's installation in the charge tube.
Does the MC kit some how pressurize the float bowls? If yes then I would think you would want to come up with a way to vary that pressure. That is what the pitot system does. Basically higher float bowl pressure at low altitude then lower the pressure at high elevation in order to lean the mixture back out. All you would need is some sort of vari flow type device.
HYERUP
Pro
Spray/Moose- I finally got the thing "hauling the mail" by plugging off (taping over) the pitot tube completely!
I am positive I have no leaks in the tees (glued and safety wired solid), I have clamps on everything under the hood.
I think I try to go larger on my main jets...maybe 145 or 150 (I have 135's now).
I was testing at home @ 2500 ft and just below freezing (30 deg F). What do you think? Will it be better at altitude? I think it will.
At least I 'm ready to try the mountains now.
Thanks again
Hyerup
I am positive I have no leaks in the tees (glued and safety wired solid), I have clamps on everything under the hood.
I think I try to go larger on my main jets...maybe 145 or 150 (I have 135's now).
I was testing at home @ 2500 ft and just below freezing (30 deg F). What do you think? Will it be better at altitude? I think it will.
At least I 'm ready to try the mountains now.
Thanks again
Hyerup
Hmmm..... 135's with pitot completely plugged off. That's richer than most guys at 1000 ft.
Yes, it will richen up at altitude. Could be as much as a couple of jet sizes depending on just how high you go. If you intend on running at elevation most of the time I would run it there before changing main jets. You may find that 135's are good at high elevation and you either have to plug the pitot or run a very small jet at low elevations.
Yes, it will richen up at altitude. Could be as much as a couple of jet sizes depending on just how high you go. If you intend on running at elevation most of the time I would run it there before changing main jets. You may find that 135's are good at high elevation and you either have to plug the pitot or run a very small jet at low elevations.
HYERUP
Pro
Yes, it baffles me too. I just can't see where air might be leaking.
Also, here's another thing: I get 12 lbs boost on high and 6 lbs boost on the low setting- I wonder why? The pressure actually spikes to about 14psi and then comes down to 12psi. (I bought the 4 & 8 lb kit I thought)
I wonder if the softer carburator slide springs (Holzman) help in this appplication? has anybody tried them? I know they help at altitude on stock RX-1's.
The most disturbing thread I've read was about the oil seals in the turbo blowing from too much pressure. Does anyone know what size of jet to stick in the line?-is Bender aware of this?
Oh well, now it's actually fun to tune and play with.
Also, here's another thing: I get 12 lbs boost on high and 6 lbs boost on the low setting- I wonder why? The pressure actually spikes to about 14psi and then comes down to 12psi. (I bought the 4 & 8 lb kit I thought)
I wonder if the softer carburator slide springs (Holzman) help in this appplication? has anybody tried them? I know they help at altitude on stock RX-1's.
The most disturbing thread I've read was about the oil seals in the turbo blowing from too much pressure. Does anyone know what size of jet to stick in the line?-is Bender aware of this?
Oh well, now it's actually fun to tune and play with.
You can use anything from a 110 to a 135 in the oil line. Yes, Bender is aware of it they came up with the fix. The way I fixed it was to file the threads off of a 110 jet and then install it in the pressure line that goes to the turbo. Take it apart at the gas tank where the front and back come together. Just remove the clamps slide the rubber hose up exposing where the two lines come together. Put the filed down jet in the lower metal line, slide the hose back down, reclamp and you're done.
As for your boost levels your wastegate is out of adjustment. To reduce boost lengthen your wastegate arm. Be carefull not to lengthen it so much that is is holding the gate open when it should be closed. ie idle and just off idle.
The initial spike in boost is normal. Takes a second for the wastegate to catch up.
As for your boost levels your wastegate is out of adjustment. To reduce boost lengthen your wastegate arm. Be carefull not to lengthen it so much that is is holding the gate open when it should be closed. ie idle and just off idle.
The initial spike in boost is normal. Takes a second for the wastegate to catch up.
TURBO TIME
Pro
HYERUP: CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR CHARGE TUBE HAS ONE WELD OR TWO, BENDER HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE CHARGE TUBES WITH TWO WELDS RUNNING WAY TOO LEAN, WHICH IS PROBABLY WHY YOU HAD TO PLUG THE JET, IF YOURS HAS TWO WELDS CONTACT BENDER HE WILL GIVE YOU AN UPDATED TUBE FREE OF CHARGE, MY UNCLES SLED HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM.
RX-1 Moose
Expert
HYERUP,
For the oil I did the same as Spray but with a 130 jet, seems to work just fine. Glad to hear your closer. Did you have an air leak before you closed the pitot off, or did you clamp and glue at the same time?
Running that kind of boost you better make sure you have good octane so we don't hear you blew up.
They are a kick when you get them to run right. :lol:
For the oil I did the same as Spray but with a 130 jet, seems to work just fine. Glad to hear your closer. Did you have an air leak before you closed the pitot off, or did you clamp and glue at the same time?
Running that kind of boost you better make sure you have good octane so we don't hear you blew up.
They are a kick when you get them to run right. :lol:
Has anyone noticed a difference in oil usage with the oil restrictor in? I am finding I use about a half a quart per ride. But I haven't done the restrictor yet.
RX-1 Moose
Expert
I too burned about 1/2 a quart of oil on a 90 to 110 mile ride.
With the resticter jet I barely burned any oil but I only went about 45 to 50 miles. I think it will help.
Has anyone tried a heavier weight oil with the Turbo? The Yamaha 5-30 seems very runny like it broke down because of more heat from the Turbo. I was thinking of trying a 10-30 just to be safe.
What do you think?
With the resticter jet I barely burned any oil but I only went about 45 to 50 miles. I think it will help.
Has anyone tried a heavier weight oil with the Turbo? The Yamaha 5-30 seems very runny like it broke down because of more heat from the Turbo. I was thinking of trying a 10-30 just to be safe.
What do you think?
tmk50
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Or switch to synthetic oil?
RX-1 Moose
Expert
Do you think a 5-30 synthetic or 10-30? I do know that sytnhetic oil will not break down like regular oil. I just want to be as safe as possible and something as easy as changing your oil to a heavier weight or synthetic is an easy method of preventive maintenance, I don't want to pass on something that easy.
Thanks
Thanks
HYERUP
Pro
YAMAHA'S NEW 0W-30 IS A SYNTHETHIC (OR SEMI) BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY IS COMPATABLE WITH THE SPRAG STARTER MECHANISM IN THE ENGINE. Question though, where is the oil going (why does it consume oil?)- are the seals in the turbo leaking?