Best "shaper" bar solution?

Telstar_2112

Veteran
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Points
151
Location
Walton, NY
I have quite a bit of push both on and off trail on my 09 RTX.

I just added 96 studs so I imagine it will be even worse now.

From reading here it seems as if studboy shaper bars may be a great improvement for relatively small investment. I can't afford new skis right now.

Considering the studs can someone recommend the best length of shaper bar, or similar solution (dually?) I was thinking 7.5" but is that maybe too big? I have seen from 6-9 listed so just chose in the middle.

I ride mostly rough trail and tight low speed twisties and just a little loose stuff getting to the trail.

I will also move limiter from 1st hole to second.

Also, can someone recommend where I should start on the fox float pressure for this type of riding? I am 160lbs.

TIA,
Telstar.
 
1st hole = tons of push
2nd hole = lots of push over 1/2 throttle
3rd hole = good all around setting, keeps skis planted pretty well while still allowing you to "wheelie" at lower speed if you plant your feet on the back of the running boards. steering gets noticeably stiffer though.

the short track skies are lacking enough keel to turn properly on loose snow which shapers or doolies help. Another option is Berstroms with ski savers, that effectively adds 1/4 more keel to the ski and those carbides will last 5000+ miles.
 
I have 7.5 Shapers on my C&As with the limiter strap pulled up, so i'd say you're best bet is long Shapers. I don't think the doolies will turn as good as the Shapers by any means, but they help darting.
Skis are awesome, but you can get it to work without new skis. My last set-up before my new skis had doolies, but i think i'd take some darting for more steering with the Shapers if i did it again?
I've been there, moneys tough!
Have fun this winter, Mike.
 
I'm running the 7 .5 " shaper bar with stock ski's. With 96 studs, I had the same problem as you pushed in the conners. I put on the shaper bars and went 1 click up on compression. I noticed the sled was rolling over too much causing a push condition at high speeds. The thing rails now and my buddy can't believe it with the stock ski's.
 
Thanks to all, this site is amazing.

I hate to sound like such a newbie but what do you mean by going 1 click up in compression? I am guessing you have springs on your front shocks and are increasing the preload, which I would do by adding more air pressure?

Trucker and Spike, do you know what limiter hole you found to be the best?

Also, is a particular brand of shapers better?


thanks again,
Telstar.
 
I was all the way up on the limiter strap. I like a ton of front end bite, and i ride on rock hard trails.
I also left my front springs way soft to get it to 'roll' and get more bite. I also added a bigger (Arctic Cat) stopper block at the back of the rails to control the wieght transfer so i can get on the gas in a corner. Make sure your center shock spring is loose! Or should i say, "snug". That helps a ton too.
Like i said, i ride on hard trails with no powder.
 
My 09' GT has clicker shocks on the front to were there is a dial or knob to were you can adjust your shock compression or rebound. It has nothing to do with the spring. All my settings are stock reguarding the limiting strap and skid adjustment. I just turned the knob on the compression one "click" in the direction of the + symbol. the - takes out compression or rebound. I'm not sure if the RTX has clickers on the front or not. If not you might want to put a full turn on your front springs or one complete turn on the nut. Just do a little at a time and one thing. That way you know what did what and if you like it or not and can put back if you don't.
 
spike337 said:
I was all the way up on the limiter strap. I like a ton of front end bite, and i ride on rock hard trails.
I also left my front springs way soft to get it to 'roll' and get more bite. I also added a bigger (Arctic Cat) stopper block at the back of the rails to control the wieght transfer so i can get on the gas in a corner. Make sure your center shock spring is loose! Or should i say, "snug". That helps a ton too.
Like i said, i ride on hard trails with no powder.

I'd have to agree with Spike, Alot of people blame soft front springs/shock for this sleds "tippy-ness" when its actually the opposite.To turn corners you need to keep the front end DOWN and the springs set as soft as they will go without bottoming all the time. A soft front allow the front to "dive" a bit and drops the center of gravity a few more inches allowing faster cornering, this also give you more usable suspension travel for grip on rutted/bumpy corners. Its does give up some of the "big bump" capability but makes for a "trail happy" phazer. Keep the center shock spring loose/soft, run atleast the middle (3rd) hole or tighter, and soften up the front springs.
 
THE 09 RTX HAVE AIR SHOCKS AND NO SPRINGS OR CLICKERS...JUST AIR PRESSURE TO ADJUST THEM. FOX FLOATS (I THINK)
 
OK, So I ordered the 7.5" shaper bars, will bring up the limiter to the 2nd hole, or maybe 3rd, and lower the air pressure a bit in the front shocks, depending on what they are at now. I only rode it for one ride last year after I bought it so will see what it is at after sitting all summer. I am 160lbs so maybe will try it at around 65lbs?

I will set center shock (I take it that is the more forward shock in the track?) preload set to almost loose.

Thanks for all the tips, sounds like these suspensions are pretty complicated and it could take a lot of trial and error to get it right.

Can't wait for the trails to open!

Telstar
 
Telstar_2112 said:
Thanks to all, this site is amazing.


Also, is a particular brand of shapers better?


thanks again,
Telstar.

Shaper Bars are made by Studboy, that is their brand and they come in different lengths (6" seems most common) - others are called something else.
 
I have a set of used slydog race skis(a little thicker spec) with 7.5 shaper bars I will sell the whole set up for $250 plus shipping
 


Back
Top